|
nurocks
May 27, 2004, 3:57 AM
Post #1 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
I am going to Acadia this weekend and I know for a fact that there will be a large group of climbers there from Northeastern University. I was wondering where, besides Otter Cliffs ( where they will all be climbing ), can I top rope without any trad. gear? I know I should suck it up and buy a rack and learn how to SAFELY set anchors....but not right now....Slinging trees or bolts is what I'm looking for. Where can I go?
Thanks a lot, and the more specific your replies the better.
Have a great day.
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
May 27, 2004, 5:57 AM
Post #2 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
Shameless bump...
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
May 27, 2004, 12:36 PM
Post #3 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
I've linked your post and will send it to regional discussions...
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
May 27, 2004, 12:37 PM
Post #4 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
crazylikeafawkes moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
May 27, 2004, 12:40 PM
Post #5 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
hi. okay. now that this thread's in the right place here's hoping you get some replies!!
I've been to acadia national park and i'm pretty sure that otter cliffs is the only area to TR without gear. Even some of the routes on Otter Cliffs require gear, a few of them have these huge anchor things set in the rock - you'll still need webbing and locking biners to set the TR anchor, in case you don't have those yet.
|
|
|
|
|
crag
May 27, 2004, 12:50 PM
Post #6 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
|
Stop by one of the shops in BH or Ellsworth and p/u the new guide book. It has a lot of details. I spent my time bouldering during my last visit 2 summers ago. Also went to the Schoodic Point Peninsula and found some decent rock there too.
|
|
|
|
|
dantman
May 27, 2004, 12:50 PM
Post #7 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 20, 2002
Posts: 79
|
Acadia Rocks, if you are looking for a place to top rope I would go to Otter Cliffs. There is a wide variety of routes however low tide is best for some of them. At the far left side of the cliff there are some large staples in the rock you can TR from. Other than that you may need some gear to set up TR as they don't allow you to anchor from trees.
Have fun,
Dan
|
|
|
|
|
littlebilly
May 27, 2004, 1:11 PM
Post #8 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 10, 2004
Posts: 69
|
Please tell me the group is not a bunch of moronic collage studes who strew their gear all over and have no concern for others...because that's why all the natives here car ballistic projectiole weapons :twisted:
and yes stay at otter cliffs, the locals who have suffered through a week of inclimate weather want to go climbing too.
sorry i'm just sort of unstable...haven't touched rock in a while
|
|
|
|
|
crag
May 27, 2004, 1:25 PM
Post #9 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
|
FWIW
ANP has a CMP & is supposed to regulate (god I hate that word) climbing groups to no larger than 12 with groups needing to make reservations during the peak season....supposedly.
|
|
|
|
|
sujones65
May 27, 2004, 1:38 PM
Post #10 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 228
|
I believe there are a couple of places to toprope at Bubble Rock...Get yourself the guide and check it out...there is a nice 5.9 face climb there (can't remember the name)
|
|
|
|
|
girlclimb
May 27, 2004, 2:39 PM
Post #11 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2003
Posts: 197
|
heh i am headed out there next weekend this is good advice for me as well :lol: we'll prob end up doing alot of top rope and bouldering.
In reply to: sorry i'm just sort of unstable...haven't touched rock in a while
haha i know your feeling all this rain is driving me crazy i wake up every morning and i can sorta see the rock through the mist but it is unclimbable arggg
well have fun on your trip an post what it was like after you go!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
mikemachineco
May 27, 2004, 3:12 PM
Post #12 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2002
Posts: 73
|
I think it's called Eagle Crag or Eagle's Head. Can't remember. It's a cliff next to the water that's pretty good with moderate to hard topropes. There's bolts on top but they're hard to find at first and you'll need long webbing to set an anchor. The bolts were hard to find because they're set back from the cliff edge and are kind of "hidden" under bushes, etc.
Perhaps someone can help me remember the name. It's before you get to Monument Cove and Otter Cliffs. The hike starts at a nice beach and there's a trail on top of the cliffs.
Also, check the tide charts for this cliff although I think the climber's left side of the cliff stays dry all day.
Also, I believe it was possible to scramble to the top of some of the climbs on the upper right side of the Precipice. I remember we did a couple of nice TRs there and I thought it was possible to scramble to the top. Here's the route DB link: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=12356
Hope that helps, have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
May 27, 2004, 3:28 PM
Post #13 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
Thanks everyone for all of your replies. And sorry mister local, I am going to try to climb somewhere other than otter cliffs. Picking up a quide in ellesworth (sp) is a good way of giving a local shop 15-30 dollars and giving me a clue.
Don't get me wrong, otter cliffs is a great place to climb. I've been there twice. I'm just going with a new climber who might not like the idea of rapelling and "having" to climb out. I know we could haul said climber out, but the mentality is just as imposing.
Thanks again,
|
|
|
|
|
munckee
May 27, 2004, 3:36 PM
Post #14 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2001
Posts: 455
|
Great Head has some bolts at the top, but they're set pretty far back from the edge. You have to get kind of creative to set TR's there, but it works.
I also TR'd a small face on the other side of the island one day, but I can't remember the name of the spot off-hand. Get the guidebook, it has all the info.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
May 27, 2004, 3:44 PM
Post #15 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
In reply to: Thanks everyone for all of your replies. And sorry mister local, I am going to try to climb somewhere other than otter cliffs. Picking up a quide in ellesworth (sp) is a good way of giving a local shop 15-30 dollars and giving me a clue. Don't get me wrong, otter cliffs is a great place to climb. I've been there twice. I'm just going with a new climber who might not like the idea of rapelling and "having" to climb out. I know we could haul said climber out, but the mentality is just as imposing. Thanks again,
Get the guide in Bar Harbor to support really local shops (even though Cadillac in Ellsworth is a branch of one of them).
Otter certainly has all the amenites and and conviences for casual toproping. If the conditions are good (the forecast is) it's going to be very social - I would think that would be good for a novice climber.
Eagle Crag (I don't think the previous reply was really describing this) is a bit over a mile up the S Ridge of Cadillac trail (the loop off to the right (east) goes over the top). It's got a couple of classic sport routes and a handful of testpiece trad routes. But you are going to need trad gear or really long slings to set up a TR. Really given the combination of your lack of experience and gear I think Otter would be the place to head to.
There will always be grumbling about the massive influx of southern new england climbers on Memorial weekend - but its a long (~30 year) tradition and most of the locals (who have a love/hate relation with the tourists and their $$$) seem to have decided to make lemonaid out if it - complete with the locally organized climbing festival.
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
May 27, 2004, 4:12 PM
Post #16 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
Climbing at Otter Cliffs can be dependent on the tides( as you probably already know). Because of the possibility that the bottom of the climbs will have some amount of water on them, we belayed from above. One recommendation that I would make if you find yourself doing this is to use a gri-gri. My wife and I didn't have one yet when we were there and felt it would have reduced the stress on the belayer(mentally and physically). Don't get me wrong -we had a great time, beautiful day- but the rock at the bottom was pretty damp and there was a lot of wave noise. Oh, and I promised myself that if I ever came back, I would have to bring gear- there's just too many beautiful climbs tempting you nearby. have fun. phillip
|
|
|
|
|
sujones65
May 27, 2004, 5:07 PM
Post #17 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 228
|
one more place I forgot about...on the other side of the Island on the Beech Mountain trail. There are a couple of sport climbs and some toproping (either/or)...the great thing about that area is that it is NEVER crowded, and you can take a swim in Long Pond after you're finished climbing....It's a little bit of a hike to get there though...
|
|
|
|
|
munckee
May 27, 2004, 5:33 PM
Post #18 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2001
Posts: 455
|
In reply to: Climbing at Otter Cliffs can be dependent on the tides( as you probably already know). Because of the possibility that the bottom of the climbs will have some amount of water on them, we belayed from above. One recommendation that I would make if you find yourself doing this is to use a gri-gri. My wife and I didn't have one yet when we were there and felt it would have reduced the stress on the belayer(mentally and physically). Don't get me wrong -we had a great time, beautiful day- but the rock at the bottom was pretty damp and there was a lot of wave noise. Oh, and I promised myself that if I ever came back, I would have to bring gear- there's just too many beautiful climbs tempting you nearby. have fun. phillip
I fully agree. A gri-gri (or perhaps reverso) makes climbing at otter infinitely easier in terms of setting managable belays.
|
|
|
|
|
jstp
May 28, 2004, 12:01 AM
Post #19 of 19
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2004
Posts: 97
|
Ok ok. I in acadia too and am desperate to climb a bunch.... but i'll give a few handouts in the name of climberliness and countless favors i have recieved from others.
Aside from otter your options for TRing are pretty limited. You can do it at South Bubble on theupper slab or at Beech mountain if your real ambitious (and have two ropes, can find this very small and obscure cliff, and don't mind that its only about 20 feet high). Other than that its bouldering it think. Buy the Butterfield guidebook and check it out.
also check out the Acadia section on this site. i am in the middle of reorganizing it so everything is in pretty much the right place, and accurate. But it will not help with your current problem. I'll make a general post when i get the whole mess worked out (who the heck thought having three seperate, and different named sections for the south wall of the precipice was a good idea?).
If you can follow trad of a .10 and up PM me and i might make the whole question of gearless anchors moot for ya. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
