|
pawilkes
Jul 10, 2004, 7:15 PM
Post #1 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 275
|
Does anyone know if Governer Dodge is open to climbing and where I can get beta on the climbs, well, i guess more of a guide book than beta. Someone told me a few months ago that it was open to climbing again but i would like to get a second on that one. Let me know if you have any info.
phil
|
|
|
|
|
brianthew
Jul 10, 2004, 8:43 PM
Post #2 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 1820
|
Though I can't say "yes, for sure," I've climbed there fairly recently, last time being the spring of 2002. We weren't the only ones there; there was another small group as well.
I know at least one Boy Scout troop that uses it for climbing outings.
Of course, because people are climbing there, doesn't mean that it's within the park rules. I noticed some bolts here and there, as well as a pin or two....I bet that irked the park folks.
I don't really have too much beta other than "look for the big bluff, trail by the storage barn." No idea what climbs we did.
In either case that place has some chossy spots...bring helmets.
|
|
|
|
|
pawilkes
Jul 11, 2004, 12:49 AM
Post #3 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 275
|
bump
|
|
|
|
|
pawilkes
Jul 11, 2004, 9:39 PM
Post #4 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 275
|
bump
|
|
|
|
|
pawilkes
Jul 12, 2004, 4:34 PM
Post #5 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 275
|
bump
|
|
|
|
|
pawilkes
Jul 13, 2004, 1:11 PM
Post #6 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 275
|
bump
|
|
|
|
|
crazyscuba
Jul 21, 2004, 10:46 PM
Post #7 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2003
Posts: 173
|
yes there is climbing there. 9 routes are bolted. 2 9's, 1 10, and 5 11's. there is also one with a spinner at the first bolt and no second bolt. havent climbed it though. the rest are absolutely wonderful climbs. the place is a blast to climb at but definitely bring a helmet. there are also many cliffs to be top roped. go to the horse barn and park right after you turn onto the road. they dont mind climbers but you probably shouldnt bolt anything else. if you have any other questions pm me and i'll tell you some more.
steve
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Aug 30, 2004, 7:57 AM
Post #8 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
Yes, please DO NOT bolt. Those that have already deserve to be shot. There's a small movement for the removal of the bolts, which I totally agree with. I've been to Governor Dodge and there isn't a single route that can't be TRed. If you can't trad it, TR it.
Yes you can climb there, but losers like those responsible for bolting there are hurting climber relations with the DNR as it is. So if you climb there, please, please, please tread lightly.
Don't forget to pad your TR anchors! :)
|
|
|
|
|
crazyscuba
Aug 31, 2004, 12:52 AM
Post #9 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2003
Posts: 173
|
while i agree with you somewhat, i have to disagree with you about removing the bolts. yes, the routes can be tr'd but the top and the sides of the cliffs would suffer much more erosion and would end up not benefiting from the removal of the bolts. the bolts dont hurt anyone because they cannot be seen by anyone but climbers, and the also displace less of the environment than toproping would.
i dont want to start an argument but sometimes we have to step back and realize that bolts are not always a bad thing.
|
|
|
|
|
photon
Aug 31, 2004, 3:17 PM
Post #10 of 10
(2054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 31, 2002
Posts: 543
|
Don't worry wildtrail, just ask someone to bolt the sidewalk for you then you can play too
|
|
|
|
|
|
