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fluxus
Jul 12, 2004, 4:37 PM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
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Greetings,
I am in Maine at the end of July and have always wanted to climb at Otter, because of the aesthetics of the place.
I understand its a total mad house most of the time. Is there a week day that typically has smaller crowds? If anyone wants a week day partner let me know, spending a day with a local who know the area would be great.
BTW what gear to set up the TRs? long slings is a given, what else? Cams and stoppers? Are there blocks to sling or is gear going into cracks in the ground etc?
cheers,
-Douglas
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jstp
Jul 15, 2004, 1:42 AM
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Registered: May 23, 2004
Posts: 97
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Otter is a total mad house from june well through august. if you are in acadia, have trad gear and want to climb go somewhere else. south wall, south bubble, canada cliff and other smaller crags are just as good climbing and generally much less crowded, especially s. bubble and canada (bus south wall is sooo nice). if you insist on climbing at otter for photogenic, aesthetic, or other reasons my advice is to either get up realy early (and sunrise is in full view) or go late, like after six. the guides are mostly done and everyone else is apparently afraid of the dark. anyway, the crowds greatly dissapate after five, so try then.
as for gear to TR, loooong slings, or better yet a short static rope are best. make sure the boulders you sling are bomber, not all of them are ans some do get used that should not. bring med nuts a few cams, say 2 and 3 camalots and tricams if you have them. that should be plenty.
as for local partners, can't help you today.... however i am working on a climbers bulletin board to go up at Alpenglow, the local climbing shop on main st. to help with this 'cause i get this request all the time. i would suggest stopping in there during the evenigngs and pestering me about people who ask. i have begun to take mental note of who is always looking. and who knows, by then i might have theboard up. i'll check with a couple of people and possibly send them your way. oh, one last bit of shameless self promotion. check out the acadia section of the route index, i have updated and added considerably to the selections so they are pretty clear now and all consolidated. but if you are in town for a while you really should support the locals and buy the guidebook, its a great one.
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korporal
Jul 15, 2004, 3:10 AM
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 175
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In reply to: Greetings, BTW what gear to set up the TRs? long slings is a given, what else? Cams and stoppers? Are there blocks to sling or is gear going into cracks in the ground etc?
There are some glued in "staples" at the top of some of the climbs. For others you need to make an all gear anchor. There are a few that can be made entirely from slinging boulders. Slinging trees is not cool there and is against park rules. Most of them are far away from the edge so it doesn't matter but don't do it.
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