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TheCarabiners


Nov 16, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Re: [petsfed] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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The original Reverso and another vote for Tricams.


blueeyedclimber


Nov 16, 2009, 2:58 PM
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Re: [petsfed] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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Some gear I have used and I have either gotten rid of or is sitting on the shelf in obscurity:

1) Hexes. I have no desire to sound like a cow or to climb moderate alpine routes where the weight of a cam is an issue.
2) PAS. Enough said.
3) Ovals. It is no longer 1972.
4) any cam by Hugh Banner. God rest his soul.
5) Any biner by Omega Pacific.
6) Any shoe by Madrock. I interestingly like their small locking carabiners, though.


A couple items that I go in and out of love with:

1) tricams. I get some strange satisfaction out of placing them. They are nice for anchors, though, to save a cam for the next pitch.
2) Wild Country Superlights. Most of the time they stay home or in the pack, but a couple times have been invaluable on a thin crack. They are also a nice addition for aid.

Josh


petsfed


Nov 16, 2009, 4:06 PM
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Re: [healyje] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
ryanb wrote:
The 12 mm mammut supersafe sold as a 10.2...I got suckered into getting one of these thinking it was the safe thing to do... what a beast to climb on.

Ha! On my fourth or fifth one - they're the only rope I'll do anything really hairball on. Hell, on a few occasions I've even used them a half ropes.

I still have one of those. After 6 years, the sheath is barely fuzzy. I haven't used it as hard as my 9.9 (which I just replaced after 18 months), but that's only because the Mammut 60m "10.2mm" rope weighed more than the 70m 9.9m from edelweiss. Its bombproof and definitely worth using when the approach is short.


maldaly


Nov 16, 2009, 4:39 PM
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Re: [shoo] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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shoo, your snarky comment on the Alpine Equalizer wans't any snarkier than mine on the cordalette. I don't carry either but lots of people do and lots of people either enjoy their use or are climbing safer because of them. No harm no foul.
Mal


ryanb


Nov 16, 2009, 5:12 PM
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Re: [petsfed] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
healyje wrote:
ryanb wrote:
The 12 mm mammut supersafe sold as a 10.2...I got suckered into getting one of these thinking it was the safe thing to do... what a beast to climb on.

Ha! On my fourth or fifth one - they're the only rope I'll do anything really hairball on. Hell, on a few occasions I've even used them a half ropes.

I still have one of those. After 6 years, the sheath is barely fuzzy. I haven't used it as hard as my 9.9 (which I just replaced after 18 months), but that's only because the Mammut 60m "10.2mm" rope weighed more than the 70m 9.9m from edelweiss. Its bombproof and definitely worth using when the approach is short.

I bought the supersafe too. It doesn't get fuzzy but it gets thick, stiff and becomes unusable in an atc guide and a pain to use in a gri gri. Mine didn't even have a good middle marking. As far as I can tell the only thing it has going for it is the fact that it passes some discredited sharp edge test and has the best name in the history of climbing ropes.

I guess it is an okay rope if you like climbing on thick ropes but I think most of its perceived safeness is marketing hype and that is lame.


Partner xtrmecat


Nov 16, 2009, 5:42 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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   It may not be 1972, but there are a couple of aid places that the ovals do the best job of. One example is the end on my aiders/daisies. Others too. Just let shifting on a sketch piece occur and your off one time and I am sure you'll seek a cure for that too.

Rope hooks totally sucked for me. I never found one single pitch that they served me well, solo or team. Waste of money and effort on my part. Bought a Snake Charmer from Fish Products and all the rope management issues for solo went bye bye.

PAS, or more commonly called POS. WTF.

Still have some aid places where a cordalette serve me well though Mal. But then again, more stuff going on at an anchor than casual outings.

Bob


johnwesely


Nov 16, 2009, 5:53 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
4) any cam by Hugh Banner. God rest his soul.

I have to disagree with you. I love my HB Quadcams. The trigger is rather annoying, but I place the tiny little red one with the brass lobes on almost every pitch.


sungam


Nov 16, 2009, 6:12 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
4) any cam by Hugh Banner. God rest his soul.

I have to disagree with you. I love my HB Quadcams. The trigger is rather annoying, but I place the tiny little red one with the brass lobes on almost every pitch.
I love the quadcams, and that little on is the shit!


scotty1974


Nov 16, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Re: [TheCarabiners] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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Of course there is always 2 sides on the tri-cam debate, but I love them. They are perfect for the pods and narrow cracks found in the CO Flatirons. I don't even usually carry nuts up there, as the tri cams are much more versitile.

Mammut ropes...it is my understanding they measure them while they are weighted. That's why they are "thicker" than all the other ropes of similar sizes on the market.


healyje


Nov 16, 2009, 6:39 PM
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Re: [ryanb] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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ryanb wrote:
I bought the supersafe too. It doesn't get fuzzy but it gets thick, stiff and becomes unusable in an atc guide and a pain to use in a gri gri. Mine didn't even have a good middle marking. As far as I can tell the only thing it has going for it is the fact that it passes some discredited sharp edge test and has the best name in the history of climbing ropes.

I guess it is an okay rope if you like climbing on thick ropes but I think most of its perceived safeness is marketing hype and that is lame.

They don't get fuzzy or fat or stiff from my experience. They are fat and they are stiff when you buy them - two characteristics I like for my application. As for the sharp edge test - yeah, it's not the best test, but it does provide some data and I prefer that to no data. The Supersafe's wear performance so outstrips any other rope I've owned that there essentially isn't a runner up of note. I attribute that to the combination of sheath %, weave, and coating technology. That same combination, and particularly the coating technology, probably provide edge protection that is as good as is possible.

I've never had the slightest problem belaying with it in a grigri or reverso. I would suggest folks are now officially 'spoiled' by smaller rope diameters - that the feel of very flexible, sub-10mm ropes in grigris has now both set the collective expectation of 'feel' when belaying - and possibly leading to diminished tolerance and skill in rope handling as well as upping the drop rate. I also climb extensively over lots of existing routes on 9.8 and 9.9's, but again, doing FA's on sharp terrain? Those nasty Supersafes are going to be the only thing you'll ever find me tied in with.


currupt4130


Nov 16, 2009, 6:39 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
2) PAS. Enough said.

Why the PAS? I was always using a single dyneema runner for anchoring myself for cleaning and stuff. I actually just bought a PAS today. What's wrong with them? My buddy loves his, has had it for at least a year now.


hafilax


Nov 16, 2009, 7:03 PM
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Re: [petsfed] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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The 0.3 and 0.4 C4/Camalots. Way too wide and there are much better cams at that size.


ryanb


Nov 16, 2009, 7:54 PM
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Re: [healyje] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
ryanb wrote:
I bought the supersafe too. It doesn't get fuzzy but it gets thick, stiff and becomes unusable in an atc guide and a pain to use in a gri gri. Mine didn't even have a good middle marking. As far as I can tell the only thing it has going for it is the fact that it passes some discredited sharp edge test and has the best name in the history of climbing ropes.

I guess it is an okay rope if you like climbing on thick ropes but I think most of its perceived safeness is marketing hype and that is lame.

They don't get fuzzy or fat or stiff from my experience. They are fat and they are stiff when you buy them - two characteristics I like for my application. As for the sharp edge test - yeah, it's not the best test, but it does provide some data and I prefer that to no data. The Supersafe's wear performance so outstrips any other rope I've owned that there essentially isn't a runner up of note. I attribute that to the combination of sheath %, weave, and coating technology. That same combination, and particularly the coating technology, probably provide edge protection that is as good as is possible.

I've never had the slightest problem belaying with it in a grigri or reverso. I would suggest folks are now officially 'spoiled' by smaller rope diameters - that the feel of very flexible, sub-10mm ropes in grigris has now both set the collective expectation of 'feel' when belaying - and possibly leading to diminished tolerance and skill in rope handling as well as upping the drop rate. I also climb extensively over lots of existing routes on 9.8 and 9.9's, but again, doing FA's on sharp terrain? Those nasty Supersafes are going to be the only thing you'll ever find me tied in with.

Supersafe's are the SUV of ropes. There might be a couple people out there using the things on terrain where they are actually merited, I'm willing to accept that you are one of them. But there are thousands of people out there dragging them up moderate clean routes wasting a ton of energy for a perceived safety benefit sold to them by some slick marketing firm... its a big wall rope marketed to free climbers.

I can see the sharp edge test having some implications for things like jugging on a rope loaded over an edge or chops due to rock fall...

But, in my limited and not statistically significant experience, supple ropes seem less likely to get caught up on bits of the cliff while whipping around in falls or while pulling the rope. My work horse rope is a metolius 9.8 which is not that much different then the super safe in terms of build quality but so much nicer in use...


(This post was edited by ryanb on Nov 16, 2009, 7:57 PM)


caughtinside


Nov 16, 2009, 8:02 PM
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Re: [hafilax] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
The 0.3 and 0.4 C4/Camalots. Way too wide and there are much better cams at that size.

I think the .4 is a good piece but don't own one (yellow aliens better) but I'd agree on the .3. It has it's place, but there's better pieces out there.


acorneau


Nov 16, 2009, 8:05 PM
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Re: [scotty1974] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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scotty1974 wrote:
Mammut ropes...it is my understanding they measure them while they are weighted. That's why they are "thicker" than all the other ropes of similar sizes on the market.

All ropes are weighted when measured. Sterling Jim mentioned the specs here recently, but it something like a 10kg weight, and measured on both sides of the rope in 3 different places with all the measurements averaged... or something like that.

Help me out here, Jim!?!


[edit for speeling!]


(This post was edited by acorneau on Nov 16, 2009, 8:56 PM)


petsfed


Nov 16, 2009, 8:08 PM
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Re: [ryanb] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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I have to agree, healyje is one of the few people using the Supersafe for its intended application.


suprasoup


Nov 16, 2009, 9:30 PM
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Re: [ryanb] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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ryanb wrote:
sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
Link cams. Some people love these things but they have always seemed sketchy to me.
Just curious, have you used them more then twice?

Absolutely not. I don't use gear that won't hold a fall.

I would sooner climb on new aliens then new link cams.
LaughLaughLaugh I'm surprised by the sheer ridiculousness of that post.
So let's look at the situation. How many link cams have failed? 1. It was in a shitty pod and it blew from the torque. Okay, so they have to load in the direction of pull, just like most cams. So it was used in a situation the manufacturer tells you not to.
Now the aliens failed due to production failure. They broke below their rated strength on numerous occasions while being used exactly how the manufacturer said they should.
So we have one case of failure in a flared pod or numerous failures in perfect placements. Then let's look at how the companies handled it when there were defects. Yellow link has defects it's all over the net, all in the shops etc. and they replaced them for free. Aliens break and CCH ignored it and claimed they were tensile tested.

So basically I'm going gunna go ahead and assume there's something I missed (fully possible) or that you haven't been paying attention.


You did miss something. There have been two Link Cam failures, I'm assuming you know about the one at Jtree (Left Ski Track), there was also one at Smith. Both total link coupling failure due to placements in constrained pods as you mention. OP's handling of both events was ok (I think the cams should be recalled) but they now advise that links not be used in situations where their rotation is constrained.

The thing is, the majority of falls I have taken on cams have been on placements in some kind of pod, pin scar or constraining slot. This kind of placement is quite common on thin routes on granite. I can think of lots of spots at my local crags where the only piece of gear protecting a mandatory runout is a link sized cam you wiggle into a placement ... other cams are beyond bomber in this situation (a .75 camalot in pod feels like a bolt to me), links break.

I think the only reason more links haven't broken and people haven't died is that most people leading 5.11 are too smart to trust their lives to such a piece of junk. I actually can't think of anyone who leads 5.11 regularly and has them on their rack.

Aliens on the other hand still get used, they crop up in BD adds and I've met climbers sponsored by other companies that keep a few hidden away. There is no denying that CCH has the worst quality control in the history of climbing gear but their design is brilliant, the OP design is flawed.

I'm not actually buying any new aliens but if you offered me a rack of free ones I'd test the hell out of em and climb on ones whose heads were still on.



I own doubles of all 'em. Having used them extensively in the alpine and trad environment I can tell you that they are the shit. The purple and green are by far my most used pieces on my rack.
Most of the negative opinions I hear regarding the Link cam are from folks that don't even own one, who have used a single size maybe once or twice, or who are so stuck on how awesome their C4's are that they can't think beyond anything else.
You can do whatever you want, it's your rack. Just don't go spewing nonsense about how shitty they are or how they can't hold a fall when you've got next to no real world experience with them.


ryanb


Nov 16, 2009, 10:23 PM
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Re: [suprasoup] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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suprasoup wrote:
ryanb wrote:
sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
Link cams. Some people love these things but they have always seemed sketchy to me.
Just curious, have you used them more then twice?

Absolutely not. I don't use gear that won't hold a fall.

I would sooner climb on new aliens then new link cams.
LaughLaughLaugh I'm surprised by the sheer ridiculousness of that post.
So let's look at the situation. How many link cams have failed? 1. It was in a shitty pod and it blew from the torque. Okay, so they have to load in the direction of pull, just like most cams. So it was used in a situation the manufacturer tells you not to.
Now the aliens failed due to production failure. They broke below their rated strength on numerous occasions while being used exactly how the manufacturer said they should.
So we have one case of failure in a flared pod or numerous failures in perfect placements. Then let's look at how the companies handled it when there were defects. Yellow link has defects it's all over the net, all in the shops etc. and they replaced them for free. Aliens break and CCH ignored it and claimed they were tensile tested.

So basically I'm going gunna go ahead and assume there's something I missed (fully possible) or that you haven't been paying attention.


You did miss something. There have been two Link Cam failures, I'm assuming you know about the one at Jtree (Left Ski Track), there was also one at Smith. Both total link coupling failure due to placements in constrained pods as you mention. OP's handling of both events was ok (I think the cams should be recalled) but they now advise that links not be used in situations where their rotation is constrained.

The thing is, the majority of falls I have taken on cams have been on placements in some kind of pod, pin scar or constraining slot. This kind of placement is quite common on thin routes on granite. I can think of lots of spots at my local crags where the only piece of gear protecting a mandatory runout is a link sized cam you wiggle into a placement ... other cams are beyond bomber in this situation (a .75 camalot in pod feels like a bolt to me), links break.

I think the only reason more links haven't broken and people haven't died is that most people leading 5.11 are too smart to trust their lives to such a piece of junk. I actually can't think of anyone who leads 5.11 regularly and has them on their rack.

Aliens on the other hand still get used, they crop up in BD adds and I've met climbers sponsored by other companies that keep a few hidden away. There is no denying that CCH has the worst quality control in the history of climbing gear but their design is brilliant, the OP design is flawed.

I'm not actually buying any new aliens but if you offered me a rack of free ones I'd test the hell out of em and climb on ones whose heads were still on.

[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/64/44/106506444_large_8bebe3.jpg[/image]

I own doubles of all 'em. Having used them extensively in the alpine and trad environment I can tell you that they are the shit. The purple and green are by far my most used pieces on my rack.
Most of the negative opinions I hear regarding the Link cam are from folks that don't even own one, who have used a single size maybe once or twice, or who are so stuck on how awesome their C4's are that they can't think beyond anything else.
You can do whatever you want, it's your rack. Just don't go spewing nonsense about how shitty they are or how they can't hold a fall when you've got next to no real world experience with them.


This is a thread about least favorite gear, links are one of mine.

They have undeniably broken in what I would consider normal use on routes/areas I climb in.

I would love to hear the reasons you think links are safe despite the failures and the way in which you identify and avoid link-breaking placements while on lead.

A picture of a bunch of shinny Link cams that still have the anodization on the lobes just indicates that you really don't have as much experience with them as you claim.


hafilax


Nov 16, 2009, 10:43 PM
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Edelrid Ultralight helmet.

It's heavy, tall, offers little side/back protection and unless it's so tight that it gives me a headache, it falls off my head when I look up. I think I'll get a Meteor III to replace it for general duty and relinquish the Edelrid to chossy alpine climbing.


scotty1974


Nov 16, 2009, 10:53 PM
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hmmm...good to know. But if that's the case why do mammut ropes have such an increase in diameter? My Mammut Genesis 8.5's are only slightly smaller than my Petzl 9.4.

I also had picked up a supersafe and returned it since it looked like a 11mm and didn't want to lug that puppy around.


overlord


Nov 16, 2009, 10:55 PM
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edelrid eddy. kindof like grigri. but WORSE. heavier, PITA to feed, lower etc. horrible.


Alpine07


Nov 16, 2009, 10:59 PM
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suprasoup wrote:
ryanb wrote:
sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
Link cams. Some people love these things but they have always seemed sketchy to me.
Just curious, have you used them more then twice?

Absolutely not. I don't use gear that won't hold a fall.

I would sooner climb on new aliens then new link cams.
LaughLaughLaugh I'm surprised by the sheer ridiculousness of that post.
So let's look at the situation. How many link cams have failed? 1. It was in a shitty pod and it blew from the torque. Okay, so they have to load in the direction of pull, just like most cams. So it was used in a situation the manufacturer tells you not to.
Now the aliens failed due to production failure. They broke below their rated strength on numerous occasions while being used exactly how the manufacturer said they should.
So we have one case of failure in a flared pod or numerous failures in perfect placements. Then let's look at how the companies handled it when there were defects. Yellow link has defects it's all over the net, all in the shops etc. and they replaced them for free. Aliens break and CCH ignored it and claimed they were tensile tested.

So basically I'm going gunna go ahead and assume there's something I missed (fully possible) or that you haven't been paying attention.


You did miss something. There have been two Link Cam failures, I'm assuming you know about the one at Jtree (Left Ski Track), there was also one at Smith. Both total link coupling failure due to placements in constrained pods as you mention. OP's handling of both events was ok (I think the cams should be recalled) but they now advise that links not be used in situations where their rotation is constrained.

The thing is, the majority of falls I have taken on cams have been on placements in some kind of pod, pin scar or constraining slot. This kind of placement is quite common on thin routes on granite. I can think of lots of spots at my local crags where the only piece of gear protecting a mandatory runout is a link sized cam you wiggle into a placement ... other cams are beyond bomber in this situation (a .75 camalot in pod feels like a bolt to me), links break.

I think the only reason more links haven't broken and people haven't died is that most people leading 5.11 are too smart to trust their lives to such a piece of junk. I actually can't think of anyone who leads 5.11 regularly and has them on their rack.

Aliens on the other hand still get used, they crop up in BD adds and I've met climbers sponsored by other companies that keep a few hidden away. There is no denying that CCH has the worst quality control in the history of climbing gear but their design is brilliant, the OP design is flawed.

I'm not actually buying any new aliens but if you offered me a rack of free ones I'd test the hell out of em and climb on ones whose heads were still on.

[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/64/44/106506444_large_8bebe3.jpg[/image]

I own doubles of all 'em. Having used them extensively in the alpine and trad environment I can tell you that they are the shit. The purple and green are by far my most used pieces on my rack.
Most of the negative opinions I hear regarding the Link cam are from folks that don't even own one, who have used a single size maybe once or twice, or who are so stuck on how awesome their C4's are that they can't think beyond anything else.
You can do whatever you want, it's your rack. Just don't go spewing nonsense about how shitty they are or how they can't hold a fall when you've got next to no real world experience with them.

Nice helmet. Do ya wear it when using those link cams? Cause I'll tell ya man, those things are damn dangerous... I've had at least eight of them fail on me, hit the ground every time. And man, was I sure glad for the full face helmet.


blueeyedclimber


Nov 16, 2009, 11:50 PM
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johnwesely wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
4) any cam by Hugh Banner. God rest his soul.

I have to disagree with you. I love my HB Quadcams. The trigger is rather annoying, but I place the tiny little red one with the brass lobes on almost every pitch.

To each their own, I guess. I had two (don't remember what sizes). Going from HB to BD was like driving a clunker than buying a brand new luxury car for the first time. But....if you like, then by all means, use 'em.

Josh


blueeyedclimber


Nov 16, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Re: [currupt4130] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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currupt4130 wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
2) PAS. Enough said.

Why the PAS? I was always using a single dyneema runner for anchoring myself for cleaning and stuff. I actually just bought a PAS today. What's wrong with them? My buddy loves his, has had it for at least a year now.

They are a one dimensional piece of gear. If all you ever climb are routes with two bolt anchors or perfect cracks with three pieces close together, then they're great. BUt once you start to build anchors that are not textbook, then they lose their usefullness.

Josh


suprasoup


Nov 16, 2009, 11:54 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] Your least favorite gear [In reply to]
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Nope. That's a Shoei X Eleven and it's for my Yamaha R1. Brain buckets may be fine for climbers and cyclist, but they be next to useless for the track. Climbing isn't my only hobby.



(This post was edited by suprasoup on Nov 17, 2009, 12:07 AM)

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