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stymingersfink
Dec 26, 2006, 11:30 PM
Post #77 of 87
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gochubug wrote: deschamps1000 wrote: I climbed with Fred Beckey last year and he barely made it up the 40-foot long 5.8 I lead. I just hope that I can make it up anything when I'm 84 
especially if it were
jt512 wrote: MoabBeth in tail?
!
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cracklover
Dec 27, 2006, 4:23 AM
Post #78 of 87
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jt512 wrote: In reply to: There's no point explaining *why*... Yeah, there is.
You snipped off the part where I said "because everyone here has already made up their mind". And then you proved my point, at least as far as your mind is considered:
In reply to: Maybe you should reconsider. Jay
I'm not on this thread to change any minds. This debate is too old and worn out for that. I simply posted here to let you know that if you think no moderately experienced/strong trad climbers use hexes, you are mistaken.
GO
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moose_droppings
Dec 27, 2006, 5:15 AM
Post #79 of 87
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jt512 wrote: We weren't talking about aid climbing. Jay
Well, yeah, you kinda were
jt512 wrote: I don't know a single climber who carries hexes. Not a one. None. Nada. |
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playouts1de
Dec 27, 2006, 5:26 AM
Post #80 of 87
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One thing that I havent heard yet is....
"Placing passive pro is fun."
Thats why I am out there....for fun.
I like the mental aspect. The mental is there for a cam placement, but its not the same.
Go with nuts, then tricams and sprinkle with SLCD's as nessecary. Play with someone elses hexes. I wouldnt recomend playing with someone elses nuts, play with your own, safer that way :)
Got a shiny new set of tricams for Christmas.
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jt512
Dec 27, 2006, 4:49 PM
Post #81 of 87
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moose_droppings wrote: jt512 wrote: We weren't talking about aid climbing. Jay Well, yeah, you kinda were jt512 wrote: I don't know a single climber who carries hexes. Not a one. None. Nada.
You see, there's this concept called "context." Given the fact that this is the trad forum, and there is a separate aid forum, it is not necessary to explicitly restrict every statement to traditional free climbing.
Jay
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jt512
Dec 28, 2006, 12:07 AM
Post #83 of 87
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moose_droppings wrote: In reply to: A5+ sponsored expedition-to-Banff guys: no hexes. Sorry, I missed concieved it related to only trad. 
Well, for all I know he carries them for aid, too. He doesn't when trad climbing.
Jay
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jeremy11
Dec 28, 2006, 12:30 AM
Post #84 of 87
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don't you guys know about the new hex shaped copperheads? They not only get pasted in, but twist and cam in there too. great for horizontal copperhead placements too.
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evanwish
May 30, 2007, 9:12 AM
Post #85 of 87
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if you're looking for innexpensive the hex's are great for starting out as everyone says and i always use mine
i agree that after your first set of cams you kindof forget about the hexs they're still a great addition to a rack and allot cheaper than the tricams
personally I like the "Rockcentrics" and the "Curved Hex" better than the regular Hexcentric but i use all of them equally.
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cchas
May 30, 2007, 1:57 PM
Post #86 of 87
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
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It sounds like you are climbing on columner basalt that is present in Mexico. For that I'd go with cams. Actually the only reason I use tri-cams is for ice climbing and I use hexes only for ice climbing when I can wail on them with impunity.
Even when I was climbing in the gunks I hated tri-cams, just way to much fiddling for what they are worth.
My suggestion,
get stoppers and become proficient with them. As the routes get harder (especially on granite), in tiny seams, they are often the only gear you get.
get the types of cam sthat you would want to climb the rest of your life. become good with them. Some people think they are but I've seconded them and their gear was crap. I spent two years doing R/X rated climbs to become more profiecient with difficult gear placement (not a recommended strategy)
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lextalion
May 31, 2007, 1:36 AM
Post #87 of 87
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
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I would recommend Stoppers before hexes, a set of Tricams in the small sizes to mid range and include a set of cams.
I personally like the C-4's even though you pay more than for some others. It is a good base for building upon. I have both C-4's and Tech friends which I feel balance well with covering ranges so that I have doubles.
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