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wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 12:38 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
I'd also assume you'll be staying for more than 2 weeks at place that are good. Its easy to spend 3 - 4 weeks at a place if things are going well.

Being flexible is key.
Being flexible is key. And if you have a small tent of truck finding a flexible girl is also key.

If you are having a good time somewhere don't be afraid to spend extra time there. Same with moving on if things aren't clicking. I have spent weeks at places that I thought I would only spend a couple days, and moved on after only a day at places I thought I would spend weeks.

Sometimes you can find good people to climb with and kinda move around with them from place to place.

Also, if you have room you can pick up climbers without cars and have them help pay for gas. Just be careful who you are picking up and taking near the borders since they do have drug checkpoints (along I-10 especially) from time to time in TX, NM and AZ. You don't want to be stuck with some guy you just met with a bunch of weed in his backpack if your car gets searched.

Also, when going into California on I-10 don't tell them you have or don't take fresh produce unless it is all marked product of the US. They will take it.
I am very flexible Laugh.

When I was in Europe, I did exactly that; stayed in places longer that were cool, etc. I don't really have a plan per se, but I have a general arc in mind because you have to follow the weather to a certain degree.

Thanks for the info on I-10 and picking up folks. I'll be careful (obviously) but that is definately something to consider if they have gas money...Smile


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 12:40 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
Are you planning on going to Cochise Stronghold? I think you can camp and climb for free there. And there is everything from bouldering to multi pitched routes on granite. The guidebook is tough to get you hands on though.
Yes, I have two copies. Two different editions. I might be persuaded to lend on out with a hefty deposit. Or let you photo copy the parts you want. Not that you would want to stop in this wasteland.

Let me look it up, I know next to nothing about the place.

If I decide to go, I would give you a deposit on the book if you are willing to lend it. If it's such a cool area, why is the guide so hard to find?


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 12:41 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
obsessed wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
This chance of rain shit needs to find a new existance away from CT
Its going to be sunny and warm here all weekend. Aren't you heading somewhere else for the long weekend anyway? Get the hell away from CT
Well It is going to be beautiful all weekend here too. But today it is chance of rain, and we decided to stay local as opposed to going to the gunks today due to that fact.
Not sure what is on for this weekend, since i have to get a physical for work on friday. We would have left already had that not been the case.
Don't forget to turn your head and cough.


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 12:41 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
So my partner and I are going to do a grade III this weekend at cannon. Ought to be fun.
Moby Grape?


granite_grrl


May 23, 2008, 12:42 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
Thanks for the camping info, sounds like most people are pretty cool. I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
I wonder what will happen with Nathan and I when we finally blow this popsicle stand and get to hit the road. Crazy


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 12:43 PM
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epoch wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
epoch wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
So my partner and I are going to do a grade III this weekend at cannon. Ought to be fun.

What about Cathedral? I'll be up there tomorrow.

And if you are stoked about a grade III, you need to get out more. Grade III ought to take 2-3 hours. Leaves time for moar climbing.
Laugh

I was going to ask if EC grade III was equal to WC Grade IV.
The way his statement read it sounded as if they were doing a grade V

Way to shit in his corn flakes.Crazy........Laugh


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 12:50 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
Thanks for the camping info, sounds like most people are pretty cool. I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
I wonder what will happen with Nathan and I when we finally blow this popsicle stand and get to hit the road. Crazy

Probably nothing; you're married, for one. Most of the people I saw having real trouble (and I mean that in the relative sense....they were still having fun) were a.) college couples who hadn't spent every waking moment together and b.) never travelled much. The stress of this plus being in foriegn countries can take a toll. After my first trip overseas, I though "I'm never, ever travelling with someone else for an extended period of time."

Since you both aren't new to this stuff, I'm sure you'll be fine!


dr_feelgood


May 23, 2008, 1:03 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
epoch wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
epoch wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
So my partner and I are going to do a grade III this weekend at cannon. Ought to be fun.

What about Cathedral? I'll be up there tomorrow.

And if you are stoked about a grade III, you need to get out more. Grade III ought to take 2-3 hours. Leaves time for moar climbing.
Laugh

I was going to ask if EC grade III was equal to WC Grade IV.
The way his statement read it sounded as if they were doing a grade V

Way to shit in his corn flakes.Crazy........Laugh
Thank buddha I am eating eggs instead.


dr_feelgood


May 23, 2008, 2:06 PM
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epoch wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
So my partner and I are going to do a grade III this weekend at cannon. Ought to be fun.

What about Cathedral? I'll be up there tomorrow.

And if you are stoked about a grade III, you need to get out more. Grade III ought to take 2-3 hours. Leaves time for moar climbing.
Jay- you got a campsite? IME says that cannon is unstable and really prone to rockfall until july-august, and we're considering cathedral.


Partner epoch
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May 23, 2008, 3:18 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
epoch wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
So my partner and I are going to do a grade III this weekend at cannon. Ought to be fun.

What about Cathedral? I'll be up there tomorrow.

And if you are stoked about a grade III, you need to get out more. Grade III ought to take 2-3 hours. Leaves time for moar climbing.
Jay- you got a campsite? IME says that cannon is unstable and really prone to rockfall until july-august, and we're considering cathedral.

No.

It's going to be a day trip. Considering that it is a measily 2 hour drive it most often is. Notch and I are going to leave hear early and hopefully get up there before the crowds really show up. I'd, ideally, like to get a few good climbs in. I think we're going to go for the Funhose-Pooh-Upper Refuse link up for climb #1 and I'd like to play on Didre or Intimidation (or both) after that. Who knows, I may end up talking him into some slab action at the end of the day. My plans are to beat myself up. The bad thing is that he climbs well below my level, so anything hard I'll be the ropegun which as we all know is somewhat taxing.

IME is correct. I've heard reports about Cannon already this year with toaster - mini-fridge size blocks coming off. Our gym manager was up there on Wednesday, and I'll get a full report from him tonight. Are you leaving tonight or tomorrow? We'll have to "bump" into each other.


granite_grrl


May 23, 2008, 3:57 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
Thanks for the camping info, sounds like most people are pretty cool. I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
I wonder what will happen with Nathan and I when we finally blow this popsicle stand and get to hit the road. Crazy

Probably nothing; you're married, for one. Most of the people I saw having real trouble (and I mean that in the relative sense....they were still having fun) were a.) college couples who hadn't spent every waking moment together and b.) never travelled much. The stress of this plus being in foriegn countries can take a toll. After my first trip overseas, I though "I'm never, ever travelling with someone else for an extended period of time."

Since you both aren't new to this stuff, I'm sure you'll be fine!

Nah, I'm not really worried. We've already done the whole spend a month together living out of a back of a truck, only being seperated when you have to take a shit, thing.

I might have to kill Nathan if we went over seas though, considering how poorly he managed just visiting Quebec.


the_climber


May 23, 2008, 4:01 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
Thanks for the camping info, sounds like most people are pretty cool. I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
I wonder what will happen with Nathan and I when we finally blow this popsicle stand and get to hit the road. Crazy

Probably nothing; you're married, for one. Most of the people I saw having real trouble (and I mean that in the relative sense....they were still having fun) were a.) college couples who hadn't spent every waking moment together and b.) never travelled much. The stress of this plus being in foriegn countries can take a toll. After my first trip overseas, I though "I'm never, ever travelling with someone else for an extended period of time."

Since you both aren't new to this stuff, I'm sure you'll be fine!

Nah, I'm not really worried. We've already done the whole spend a month together living out of a back of a truck, only being seperated when you have to take a shit, thing.

I might have to kill Nathan if we went over seas though, considering how poorly he managed just visiting Quebec.

You know, I rent axes.


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:09 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
Yeah Eldo is $5 a day and there is no camping within a bit. Definately no free camping.

That is the suck.

Bec climbed there for free and stayed at someone's house.

Remember. Ins, outs, what have yous. Learn to work them.


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:15 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
That sounds like being married.Crazy

But yes.Also, don't make plans to have anyone fly in and meet you either. Make them drive to wherever. If you are trying to get a piece of ass in Hueco and your buddy is flying into Phoenix the next day it makes it hard to pick between where you should be.


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:35 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
A park pass still seems like a good idea, but I see what you are saying.

Thanks for the tower beta. It seems that sneaking in if possible is the way to go, I've heard that from others as well. Frank sounds like a cool guy, I'd be happy to help him out with work or whatever if he'd let me pitch my tent. I might drop you a pm on his specific info...

The reasons you mention are exactly why I'd like to get a truck...but only for even trade. I'd be super convienent to be able to just pull over and sleep wherever comfortably and with a reasonable chance of no one being the wiser, which you can't really do in a car.

That campground registration trick sounds good, haha. That goes in line with what Bec was saying about meeting folks to share a site with.

I hear what you are saying about the popular areas. We'll see, I guess. I've been going back and forth about getting Rock N Road, but I think I might, just to have an encyclopedia of areas; I've never heard of Cochise (well, I think I've seen a reference to it here and there). It sounds great, though. Vedawoo looks great, as well.


If you already have a park pass there is no need to sneak into the Tower. Having a park pass is nice for rest days too. I have went to a lot of places that I normally wouldn't have coughed up the $20 for a half a day I spent there when passing through.

You can PM Frank. He is Bigwally on here.

Get a station wagon. We met a guy who had his wagon all set up for covert sleeping. He said he has slept in residential areas before. Just roll in late. Go to sleep and leave in the morning. Just make sure it is legal to park where ever you park.Laugh

Poaching camping kinda goes with what Bec was saying about sharing, but not really. If you do poach make sure you have a good story. And you still could get a ticket. Sharing sites really isn't poaching, since the site is paid for.

Rock n' Road is nice, but it won't tell you anything you can't find on the NET. On the other hand you can't flip through the NET when you don't have a computer or internet service.

If you wanted to leave a huge deposit we have a ton of guide books. Most are irreplaceable though but we have some off the wall places. R&I used to have mini guides years ago in every issue. I've hit some really cool backwater places. Here is a tip. If you see a guidebook for a place you would like to visit someday, (and it isn't the Red where they come out with a new book every two years) BUY IT. I have books I've bought years ago and still never used, but the books have been out of print and you can't find them anywhere. And don't buy Falcon books unless you need to, those sadly will never go out of print and are generally fucked up.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/.../Cochise_Stronghold/

Vedauwoo is cool. Really sharp though. Bring lots of tape. Jack also rated everything there.Wink


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:39 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
Are you planning on going to Cochise Stronghold? I think you can camp and climb for free there. And there is everything from bouldering to multi pitched routes on granite. The guidebook is tough to get you hands on though.
Yes, I have two copies. Two different editions. I might be persuaded to lend on out with a hefty deposit. Or let you photo copy the parts you want. Not that you would want to stop in this wasteland.

Let me look it up, I know next to nothing about the place.

If I decide to go, I would give you a deposit on the book if you are willing to lend it. If it's such a cool area, why is the guide so hard to find?
Its not the cool new envouge area and there probably isn't a shit ton of new development happening. They were made in a single printing and they only printed however many they thought they could sell. I suppose there isn't enough demand yet to reprint. I almost sold my first edition to Redlegrangerone way back when for a good amount of money.


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:41 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
Thanks for the camping info, sounds like most people are pretty cool. I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
I wonder what will happen with Nathan and I when we finally blow this popsicle stand and get to hit the road. Crazy
Back into the pressure cooker we go!!

Weeeeeeeeeeee!Crazy


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:42 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
Thanks for the camping info, sounds like most people are pretty cool. I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
I wonder what will happen with Nathan and I when we finally blow this popsicle stand and get to hit the road. Crazy

Probably nothing; you're married, for one. Most of the people I saw having real trouble (and I mean that in the relative sense....they were still having fun) were a.) college couples who hadn't spent every waking moment together and b.) never travelled much. The stress of this plus being in foriegn countries can take a toll. After my first trip overseas, I though "I'm never, ever travelling with someone else for an extended period of time."

Since you both aren't new to this stuff, I'm sure you'll be fine!
You haven't met us in real life have you?Laugh


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:44 PM
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the_climber wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
Thanks for the camping info, sounds like most people are pretty cool. I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
I wonder what will happen with Nathan and I when we finally blow this popsicle stand and get to hit the road. Crazy

Probably nothing; you're married, for one. Most of the people I saw having real trouble (and I mean that in the relative sense....they were still having fun) were a.) college couples who hadn't spent every waking moment together and b.) never travelled much. The stress of this plus being in foriegn countries can take a toll. After my first trip overseas, I though "I'm never, ever travelling with someone else for an extended period of time."

Since you both aren't new to this stuff, I'm sure you'll be fine!

Nah, I'm not really worried. We've already done the whole spend a month together living out of a back of a truck, only being seperated when you have to take a shit, thing.

I might have to kill Nathan if we went over seas though, considering how poorly he managed just visiting Quebec.

You know, I rent axes.
You rent them out? Or you rent one when you have a "job" to do?


chossmonkey


May 23, 2008, 5:46 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
I might have to kill Nathan if we went over seas though, considering how poorly he managed just visiting Quebec.
You have to admit I was pretty good when we were in Quebec ice climbing.

Voytek wanted tot kill me too that first weekend. I think it was justa bad moon.


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 6:08 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
Yeah Eldo is $5 a day and there is no camping within a bit. Definately no free camping.

That is the suck.

Bec climbed there for free and stayed at someone's house.

Remember. Ins, outs, what have yous. Learn to work them.

I will work them like a job!


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 6:09 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day.
That sounds like being married.Crazy

But yes.Also, don't make plans to have anyone fly in and meet you either. Make them drive to wherever. If you are trying to get a piece of ass in Hueco and your buddy is flying into Phoenix the next day it makes it hard to pick between where you should be.

Have fun on the couch tonight.Laugh

A friend wanted to meet me in the creek, I wonder if I should make him drive from west virginia...


granite_grrl


May 23, 2008, 6:24 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
I might have to kill Nathan if we went over seas though, considering how poorly he managed just visiting Quebec.
You have to admit I was pretty good when we were in Quebec ice climbing.

Voytek wanted tot kill me too that first weekend. I think it was justa bad moon.

Yeah, but not so good when trying into Quebec and then to Montagne d'Argent. Nor when driving around Quebec city. Montreal wasn't so good either the first time.

You only deal with it well when we finally get where we need to go.


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 6:25 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
A park pass still seems like a good idea, but I see what you are saying.

Thanks for the tower beta. It seems that sneaking in if possible is the way to go, I've heard that from others as well. Frank sounds like a cool guy, I'd be happy to help him out with work or whatever if he'd let me pitch my tent. I might drop you a pm on his specific info...

The reasons you mention are exactly why I'd like to get a truck...but only for even trade. I'd be super convienent to be able to just pull over and sleep wherever comfortably and with a reasonable chance of no one being the wiser, which you can't really do in a car.

That campground registration trick sounds good, haha. That goes in line with what Bec was saying about meeting folks to share a site with.

I hear what you are saying about the popular areas. We'll see, I guess. I've been going back and forth about getting Rock N Road, but I think I might, just to have an encyclopedia of areas; I've never heard of Cochise (well, I think I've seen a reference to it here and there). It sounds great, though. Vedawoo looks great, as well.


If you already have a park pass there is no need to sneak into the Tower. Having a park pass is nice for rest days too. I have went to a lot of places that I normally wouldn't have coughed up the $20 for a half a day I spent there when passing through.

You can PM Frank. He is Bigwally on here.

Get a station wagon. We met a guy who had his wagon all set up for covert sleeping. He said he has slept in residential areas before. Just roll in late. Go to sleep and leave in the morning. Just make sure it is legal to park where ever you park.Laugh

Poaching camping kinda goes with what Bec was saying about sharing, but not really. If you do poach make sure you have a good story. And you still could get a ticket. Sharing sites really isn't poaching, since the site is paid for.

Rock n' Road is nice, but it won't tell you anything you can't find on the NET. On the other hand you can't flip through the NET when you don't have a computer or internet service.

If you wanted to leave a huge deposit we have a ton of guide books. Most are irreplaceable though but we have some off the wall places. R&I used to have mini guides years ago in every issue. I've hit some really cool backwater places. Here is a tip. If you see a guidebook for a place you would like to visit someday, (and it isn't the Red where they come out with a new book every two years) BUY IT. I have books I've bought years ago and still never used, but the books have been out of print and you can't find them anywhere. And don't buy Falcon books unless you need to, those sadly will never go out of print and are generally fucked up.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/.../Cochise_Stronghold/

Vedauwoo is cool. Really sharp though. Bring lots of tape. Jack also rated everything there.Wink

Cool, I will have to PM him. I was just looking at his profile, he seems like a nice guy.

You know, that is a really good idea about the station wagon. This might need some more thought....

Sty was giving me some bandit camping ideas for the valley. Like you said, there are ways around stuff. Maybe I will get by on my good looks.Tongue

I need a new computer, and am thinking about trying to get a cheap laptop to store photos and write on while I'm travelling. So if I can access the net, I guess I might be all set versus having something like Rock N Road. The $50 price tag seems a bit much, especially since you don't get any info on actual routes. Maybe I'll go to REI and flip through it again, maybe not...

Thanks for mentioning your catelogue of books, maybe we can work something out. I was only originally interested in info in the main areas I'm visiting: Yosemite, Devil's, Squamish, RR, Indian Crk, Zion. But I'm definately getting more and more interested in the less popular areas, especially if I can work out partners. I saw some of your pics of Vedawoo, it looks great! I suck at offwidth, just haven't done much of it, so I will learn. Or turn into hamburger.

The Falcon guides tend to be hit or miss for me. The New Hampshire one isn't that great, as I remember. Eric Horst wrote Rock Climbing West Virginia, Virginia & Maryland and did a pretty good job. He's definately selective in routes and skips a fair amount of good ones, IMO, but he also covers three states, so...

I was going to get the "Rock Climbing Utah" guide, as it also seems to cover a broad range. What do you think, Sty?


wanderlustmd


May 23, 2008, 6:29 PM
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     Re: [chossmonkey] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
Are you planning on going to Cochise Stronghold? I think you can camp and climb for free there. And there is everything from bouldering to multi pitched routes on granite. The guidebook is tough to get you hands on though.
Yes, I have two copies. Two different editions. I might be persuaded to lend on out with a hefty deposit. Or let you photo copy the parts you want. Not that you would want to stop in this wasteland.

Let me look it up, I know next to nothing about the place.

If I decide to go, I would give you a deposit on the book if you are willing to lend it. If it's such a cool area, why is the guide so hard to find?
Its not the cool new envouge area and there probably isn't a shit ton of new development happening. They were made in a single printing and they only printed however many they thought they could sell. I suppose there isn't enough demand yet to reprint. I almost sold my first edition to Redlegrangerone way back when for a good amount of money.

Well, if the climbing is good, then the climbing is good.

It really is a mixed thing. I mean, you hear about Yosemite this and Yosemite that, and rightfully so i guess. But that's where all the people are. Crowds suck, but you won't lack partners.

Then you have the backwater areas with just as good rock quality but are not as big, and less people...but less partners.

Round and round we go. It will be fun no matter what. And you can't see everything in one trip, either.

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