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Myxomatosis
Aug 6, 2009, 1:39 AM
Post #27 of 104
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Haha. My mate was given a Sport and still doesnt use it 
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Myxomatosis
Aug 6, 2009, 3:38 AM
Post #29 of 104
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I_do wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: Haha. My mate was given a Sport and still doesnt use it Well if given by someone who doesn't climb I'd appreciate the gesture i guess...
Well he won it through a boulder competition. He then trys to belay me on his eight in a stich plate config...... I usually end up giving him by ATCX
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patto
Aug 6, 2009, 3:56 AM
Post #30 of 104
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This Faders device is amoung the worst around. On fatter ropes at least belay is horrible.
Stich plates are better. Or better yet for those on a budget go the ALDI device!
http://www.aldi.com.au/...offers/2827_9045.htm
(This post was edited by patto on Aug 6, 2009, 3:58 AM)
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qwert
Aug 6, 2009, 7:34 AM
Post #31 of 104
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I_do wrote: vegastradguy wrote: interestingly, while the BD ATC Sport is a very low seller in the US, its one of the best sellers in Europe- and its not the only single slot device out there- the Edelrid Jewel is another one (which i actually really like for cragging, after playing with one for a weekend after the OR show!)- neither sell well in the US, but in Europe they're fairly common because folks rarely rappel over there. Dude, how much time have you spent in Europe? I have never seen either of those devices being used by anyone...
And the edelrid jewel?
No way that this is used, since it isnt even anounced here. The only time i have seen that was here in the outdoor show blog. Its not even on the german edelrid site, and its also not an old lucky device that just got the edelrid rebranding now.
qwert
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a-e-jones
Aug 6, 2009, 10:37 AM
Post #32 of 104
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I_do wrote: Dude, how much time have you spent in Europe? I have never seen either of those devices being used by anyone...
i've seen alot of people around france with the ATC sport :\
didn't want to fork out the extra 2-3eu for the guide or reverso 3 i guess
(This post was edited by a-e-jones on Aug 6, 2009, 1:01 PM)
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kachoong
Aug 6, 2009, 1:28 PM
Post #33 of 104
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Myxomatosis wrote: I_do wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: Haha. My mate was given a Sport and still doesnt use it Well if given by someone who doesn't climb I'd appreciate the gesture i guess... Well he won it through a boulder competition. He then trys to belay me on his eight in a stich plate config...... I usually end up giving him by ATCX
They give away belay devices as prizes in bouldering comps? Funny!
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reverse_dyno
Aug 6, 2009, 2:47 PM
Post #34 of 104
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what about the Mammut Smart? Doesn't look that smart to me, looks complicated. Lots of people use them in Swiss climbing gyms. Once again, only one slot.
Mark
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Smart_bild1.eps_Zoom.jpeg
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Skidemon27
Aug 6, 2009, 3:25 PM
Post #36 of 104
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bigjonnyc wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: ...and let me also point out the fact the the belay device was only 4 hours old!!!! I truly doubt that the device was manufactured only 4 hours prior to your using it.
4 hours old from purchase,,,, moron
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hacksaw
Aug 6, 2009, 3:27 PM
Post #37 of 104
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Registered: Jun 21, 2004
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So, what do you guys think of the Kong Gi-Gi? I'm in the market for a new belay/rappel plate. I'd be interested in hearing from any one that has used one...
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shoo
Aug 6, 2009, 4:28 PM
Post #38 of 104
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I've never used the smart, so I can't comment. I will say that I don't dislike single line, autolocking devices (grigri, cinch, etc) just because of what they are. I often dislike their users, but that's another discussion.
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a-e-jones
Aug 6, 2009, 4:53 PM
Post #39 of 104
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reverse_dyno wrote: what about the Mammut Smart? Doesn't look that smart to me, looks complicated. Lots of people use them in Swiss climbing gyms. Once again, only one slot. Mark
when i got the smart it was because it was cheap and i thought it'd make a good present for the miss since i have a good 30kg on her, i tried it once and i've long ditched my grigri for it, i think its a fantastic gym short crag belay device
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brenta
Aug 6, 2009, 5:45 PM
Post #40 of 104
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hacksaw wrote: So, what do you guys think of the Kong Gi-Gi? I'm in the market for a new belay/rappel plate. I'd be interested in hearing from any one that has used one...
One advantage it has over devices like the ATC Guide and the Reverso 3 in that application is that, of the two symmetric holes, one is used to connect the GiGi to the anchor, while the other provides a convenient attachment point through which a locker may be clipped.
With the GiGi you need another device for lead belay. However, a team of two can get away with one GiGi and another device and this is can be a very light combination.
When belaying with one rope, care must be taken to avoid rotation of the brake biner. The easiest way is to clip it to the biner connecting the GiGi to the anchor.
Giving slack to the follower is a pain, more or less as with the other "guide-mode" devices.
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karmiclimber
Aug 6, 2009, 5:50 PM
Post #41 of 104
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Agreed. Unless you are speed climbing at the gym, who needs one?
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bill413
Aug 6, 2009, 6:12 PM
Post #42 of 104
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kachoong wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: I_do wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: Haha. My mate was given a Sport and still doesnt use it Well if given by someone who doesn't climb I'd appreciate the gesture i guess... Well he won it through a boulder competition. He then trys to belay me on his eight in a stich plate config...... I usually end up giving him by ATCX They give away belay devices as prizes in bouldering comps? Funny!
Well, they didn't know what else to do with it. 
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imnotclever
Aug 6, 2009, 7:51 PM
Post #43 of 104
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dlintz
Aug 6, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #45 of 104
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reverse_dyno wrote: what about the Mammut Smart? Doesn't look that smart to me, looks complicated. Lots of people use them in Swiss climbing gyms. Once again, only one slot. Mark 
Complicated? It's got a flippin' diagram on it!
I'd buy one if I didn't already own a bunch of belay devices.
d.
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bill413
Aug 6, 2009, 8:20 PM
Post #46 of 104
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camhead wrote: imnotclever wrote: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=1787;[/image] those are actually really useful when you want a backup, or when you are climbing with one single and twins.
Is this going to be like the razor wars? Twin blade...quatro...fusion?
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Myxomatosis
Aug 6, 2009, 9:06 PM
Post #47 of 104
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Registered: Jun 12, 2007
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kachoong wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: I_do wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: Haha. My mate was given a Sport and still doesnt use it Well if given by someone who doesn't climb I'd appreciate the gesture i guess... Well he won it through a boulder competition. He then trys to belay me on his eight in a stich plate config...... I usually end up giving him by ATCX They give away belay devices as prizes in bouldering comps? Funny!
Well long story but because we held the comp later in the year most companies (BD/Petzl) had already spent there freebe budget for our region 
So they gave us a big discount on buying goods, so the organiser brought up as much he could. You can only give away so many boulder brush's 
Vaude did come to the party and gave us four top of the range packs..... nice company!!
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I_do
Aug 6, 2009, 11:02 PM
Post #48 of 104
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a-e-jones wrote: I_do wrote: Dude, how much time have you spent in Europe? I have never seen either of those devices being used by anyone... i've seen alot of people around france with the ATC sport :\ didn't want to fork out the extra 2-3eu for the guide or reverso 3 i guess
And they say the dutch are cheap... In all fairness I haven't been climbing in France for a while, will make up by going to Bleau in october (I just love saying that I'm so stoked to finally go there) probably not a lot of atc sports there.
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a-e-jones
Aug 7, 2009, 10:08 AM
Post #49 of 104
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I_do wrote: a-e-jones wrote: I_do wrote: Dude, how much time have you spent in Europe? I have never seen either of those devices being used by anyone... i've seen alot of people around france with the ATC sport :\ didn't want to fork out the extra 2-3eu for the guide or reverso 3 i guess And they say the dutch are cheap... In all fairness I haven't been climbing in France for a while, will make up by going to Bleau in october (I just love saying that I'm so stoked to finally go there) probably not a lot of atc sports there.
i've been living in paris for over a year now, so when you come by drop a line and i'll give you some easy tips to find your way around all the footpaths that connect the fields
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vertical_planar
Aug 7, 2009, 11:24 AM
Post #50 of 104
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When I am extreme rock climbing-ing I don't like the ATC V. It's good for climbing schools though. But then ATC XXXIII is better...
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