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Alpine07
Nov 17, 2009, 12:06 AM
Post #101 of 181
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suprasoup wrote: Nope. That's a Shoei X Eleven and it's for my Yamaha R1. Brain buckets may be fine for climbers and cyclist, but they be next to useless for the track. [image]http://mountainproject.com/images/13/64/106391364_large_3014c0.jpg[/image] Ya, I knew that it was a motorcycle helmet, I was just laughing at people that think link cams are super dangerous... The R1 is a pretty sick bike... Bit too fast for me. They are called brain buckets for a reason, cause when you go for a long slide they end up literally being a brain bucket when your face gets torn off.
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Tipton
Nov 17, 2009, 4:09 AM
Post #102 of 181
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suprasoup wrote: Nope. That's a Shoei X Eleven and it's for my Yamaha R1. Brain buckets may be fine for climbers and cyclist, but they be next to useless for the track. Climbing isn't my only hobby. [image]http://mountainproject.com/images/13/64/106391364_large_3014c0.jpg[/image] I thought I was the only one! I have a track only Mustang that I drag out pretty regularly. If only being a true climbing bum and owning a race car weren't mutually exclusive... Back on topic, the Doval was definitely my crappiest piece of gear. I got one in a mystery box from dailyclimber and was more than willing to leave it as bail gear. Good riddance to that ridiculous thing.
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currupt4130
Nov 17, 2009, 4:42 AM
Post #103 of 181
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Posts: 515
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I hate tri cams (mainly any bigger than red), and refuse to place hexes. I take tri cams when I know they're the only thing that stands a chance of working, but I'd rather run it out than place one if I can get to something easier and quicker to place.
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kylekienitz
Nov 17, 2009, 6:46 AM
Post #104 of 181
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Posts: 256
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How about this bad boy: Actually, I got this thing free about five years ago and I've used it ever since. It is a serious bitch to open though if your hands are the least bit cold, wearing a glove, or opening it with the left hand. Or these little assholes: I can't complain on that one either. I got three of the quickdraws at a crazy sale price of 3.99 - maybe REI?... can't remember. I use the biners to rack nuts and hexes now.
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nikmit
Nov 17, 2009, 7:00 AM
Post #105 of 181
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Registered: Feb 10, 2009
Posts: 55
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Gear I’ve used and said to myself “never again”: 5.10 Camp Four- the sole is rubbish- it came apart after couple of months moderate use, plus this is the only shoe I’ve had that smelled. Harness (Petzl) with plastic gear loops- they just suck. Petzl Shunt- it’s probably my fault here, but I couldn’t make one smooth rappel- either too fast, either too bouncy plus it weighs like a truck. For the record I love tricams- especially in the winter.
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possum2082
Nov 17, 2009, 8:21 PM
Post #107 of 181
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suprasoup wrote: Brain buckets may be fine for climbers and cyclist, but they be next to useless for the track. disagree 100%. motorcycle helmets are not just for determining closed or open casket funerals. doesn't matter if it's track or not. show me stats to prove otherwise. your staged far away visionary look pic is cracking me up. unbelievable. good bike, though. i used to have a 97 yzf100r. precursor to the 98 r1. one of the best handling bikes i've ever ridden.
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healyje
Nov 17, 2009, 9:25 PM
Post #108 of 181
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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sungam wrote: nikmit wrote: Petzl Shunt- it’s probably my fault here, but I couldn’t make one smooth rappel- either too fast, either too bouncy plus it weighs like a truck. No, it's probably the fault of the shunt for NOT BEING A RAPPEL DEVICE. Yes, the Shunt is one of the least understood and appreciated pieces of gear out there. It is possibly the BEST piece of gear on earth for rapping with loads or doing vertical work with loads. BUT, you have to know how to use one. The best way I've found to use them is to put it directly on your belay loop with a locker and then put your rappel device above it on the belay loop, but at the end of either two, unextended and opposed trad draws or a single draw with lockers (one or the other of those goes to the locker on your belay device). Once you have that configuration setup then hang your load or haul bag from the belay device locker - not your belay loop or any other attachment on your person. Make sure you extend the load down somehow so that it [securley] hangs with the top of it about mid-thigh level. Manage and operate the rappel with the Shunt alone - just completely ignore the actual device you are rappelling on. Do that and rappels with 120 lb. loads are effortless, smooth as silk, and stopping to work and restarting require no energy at all. Shunts friggin' rule.
(This post was edited by healyje on Nov 17, 2009, 10:21 PM)
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sungam
Nov 17, 2009, 10:41 PM
Post #109 of 181
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healyje wrote: sungam wrote: nikmit wrote: Petzl Shunt- it’s probably my fault here, but I couldn’t make one smooth rappel- either too fast, either too bouncy plus it weighs like a truck. No, it's probably the fault of the shunt for NOT BEING A RAPPEL DEVICE. Yes, the Shunt is one of the least understood and appreciated pieces of gear out there. It is possibly the BEST piece of gear on earth for rapping with loads or doing vertical work with loads. BUT, you have to know how to use one. The best way I've found to use them is to put it directly on your belay loop with a locker and then put your rappel device above it on the belay loop, but at the end of either two, unextended and opposed trad draws or a single draw with lockers ( one or the other of those goes to the locker on your belay device). Once you have that configuration setup then hang your load or haul bag from the belay device locker - not your belay loop or any other attachment on your person. Make sure you extend the load down somehow so that it [securley] hangs with the top of it about mid-thigh level. Manage and operate the rappel with the Shunt alone - just completely ignore the actual device you are rappelling on. Do that and rappels with 120 lb. loads are effortless, smooth as silk, and stopping to work and restarting require no energy at all. Shunts friggin' rule. I concur with both the statement that it's a great piece of gear and they way you use it, but the post I quoted made it sound like he was using it itself as a rap device instead of as a backup.
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healyje
Nov 17, 2009, 11:00 PM
Post #110 of 181
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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sungam wrote: ...but the post I quoted made it sound like he was using it itself as a rap device instead of as a backup. Yes, sorry, I should have acknowledged the humor in your post - you clearly get it.
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quietpartner
Nov 18, 2009, 3:45 AM
Post #111 of 181
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Registered: Mar 10, 2006
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All you tricam-hating pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to use them. Dey's da bomb!
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suprasoup
Nov 18, 2009, 4:19 AM
Post #112 of 181
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
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possum2082 wrote: suprasoup wrote: Brain buckets may be fine for climbers and cyclist, but they be next to useless for the track. disagree 100%. motorcycle helmets are not just for determining closed or open casket funerals. doesn't matter if it's track or not. show me stats to prove otherwise. your staged far away visionary look pic is cracking me up. unbelievable. good bike, though. i used to have a 97 yzf100r. precursor to the 98 r1. one of the best handling bikes i've ever ridden. I'm always good for a few laughs. But seriously, you misinterpreted what I said. I didn't spend over 8 benjamins on a helmet if I thought they were useless. 1/2 helmets and 3/4's are what I'm disparaging. Those in my opinion are useless for the serious rider. There isn't a track in the country that would let you set foot on their course with nothing less than full leathers and a full face helmet.
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suprasoup
Nov 18, 2009, 4:22 AM
Post #113 of 181
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quietpartner wrote: All you tricam-hating pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to use them. Dey's da bomb! +1
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forkliftdaddy
Nov 18, 2009, 4:53 AM
Post #114 of 181
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
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WC Tech Friends -- Gimme a Forged Friend or a Camalot, a TCU or an Alien. Damn, even a Master Cam is better. Rope hook -- I mean, come on, you have at least one 2' runner right? Metolius multi-loop gear sling -- I mean, come on, you have at least one 2' runner right? Don't expect me to ever carry that. BD Oz biner -- I like little 'biners (like the Neutrino and the Nano), but these are just too thin for me.
(This post was edited by forkliftdaddy on Nov 18, 2009, 4:53 AM)
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petsfed
Nov 18, 2009, 3:45 PM
Post #115 of 181
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quietpartner wrote: All you tricam-hating pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to use them. Dey's da bomb! All you tricam-loving pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to climb harder than 5.7. Dey's da etc.
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hafilax
Nov 18, 2009, 7:25 PM
Post #116 of 181
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petsfed wrote: quietpartner wrote: All you tricam-hating pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to use them. Dey's da bomb! All you tricam-loving pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to climb harder than 5.7. Dey's da etc. I believe that souprasoup put this myth to rest above.
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petsfed
Nov 18, 2009, 9:13 PM
Post #117 of 181
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hafilax wrote: petsfed wrote: quietpartner wrote: All you tricam-hating pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to use them. Dey's da bomb! All you tricam-loving pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to climb harder than 5.7. Dey's da etc. I believe that souprasoup put this myth to rest above. I will readily concede that there are certain 5.10 and harder routes that simply will not go without a tricam. These routes, of course, have never been climbed by the cult of the tricam. I've yet to see a "tricam only" placement that couldn't have been protected faster with a TCU or alien for the same quality of protection. I know how to set them, I even know how to clean tricams that have been fallen on. I find nothing wrong with the device as such. Just the slack-jawed, glassy-eyed bumblies who hold their pink tricams with pride as if knowing how to operate one is some sort of status symbol. I actually hate my #7 tricam because of its total instability in most every place I've attempted to use it as protection. I climb a lot of that size, so compared to the 3 cams and one big bro I have of equivalent girth, I really do hate it. But I bit my tongue because I didn't want to incur the wraith of the Esoteric Order of the Pink & Red.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Nov 18, 2009, 9:13 PM)
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ryanb
Nov 18, 2009, 10:29 PM
Post #118 of 181
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petsfed wrote: hafilax wrote: petsfed wrote: quietpartner wrote: All you tricam-hating pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to use them. Dey's da bomb! All you tricam-loving pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to climb harder than 5.7. Dey's da etc. I believe that souprasoup put this myth to rest above. I will readily concede that there are certain 5.10 and harder routes that simply will not go without a tricam. These routes, of course, have never been climbed by the cult of the tricam. I've yet to see a "tricam only" placement that couldn't have been protected faster with a TCU or alien for the same quality of protection. I know how to set them, I even know how to clean tricams that have been fallen on. I find nothing wrong with the device as such. Just the slack-jawed, glassy-eyed bumblies who hold their pink tricams with pride as if knowing how to operate one is some sort of status symbol. I actually hate my #7 tricam because of its total instability in most every place I've attempted to use it as protection. I climb a lot of that size, so compared to the 3 cams and one big bro I have of equivalent girth, I really do hate it. But I bit my tongue because I didn't want to incur the wraith of the Esoteric Order of the Pink & Red. This is dead on. I learned to lead with a bunch of tricams including a big one and a handfull of small ones, but they were the first things I took off my rack as I started to refine my gear selection. The issue isn't that they can't be made to work; it is that there are things that work better and are much faster in 99% of situations. When I get on a route I want a small set of versatile tools that will keep me safe while not hindering my ability to move efficiently. I am willing to accept that I won't have the right piece for 1 pitch in 1000 if it means I won't have to carry that piece the 999 other times and will never have to wait for my second to clean them or hang around getting pumped trying to place and set the darn things one handed.
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johnwesely
Nov 18, 2009, 11:12 PM
Post #119 of 181
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There are eyebrows at looking glass that a cam can't grip at all but will take a red or pink tricam with some fiddling. There are multiple placements like this per pitch on many routes there.
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reno
Nov 18, 2009, 11:25 PM
Post #120 of 181
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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petsfed wrote: I will readily concede that there are certain 5.10 and harder routes that simply will not go without a tricam. These routes, of course, have never been climbed by the cult of the tricam. I've yet to see a "tricam only" placement that couldn't have been protected faster with a TCU or alien for the same quality of protection. I know how to set them, I even know how to clean tricams that have been fallen on. I find nothing wrong with the device as such. Just the slack-jawed, glassy-eyed bumblies who hold their pink tricams with pride as if knowing how to operate one is some sort of status symbol. I actually hate my #7 tricam because of its total instability in most every place I've attempted to use it as protection. I climb a lot of that size, so compared to the 3 cams and one big bro I have of equivalent girth, I really do hate it. But I bit my tongue because I didn't want to incur the wraith of the Esoteric Order of the Pink & Red. well, I don't exactly bow down at the Altar of the Tri-Cam (may we all be touched by their nylon appendages) but I do like them in various applications over other options, depending on the situation. If I'm on some remote alpine route and weight of the pack is a concern, I'll rack up with a set of stoppers, a couple hexes, a couple tri-cams, and MAYBE three or four Camalots. Ounce for ounce and dollar for dollar, I think the Tri-cam is one of the best pieces on the rack. Sure, cams place faster. They're also heavier and not always as versatile. Oh, and they're quite easy to place one-handed in a lot of places, given sufficient practice. That last bit, though... aye, that's the rub.
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healyje
Nov 18, 2009, 11:38 PM
Post #121 of 181
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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I've mainly climbed on basalt since moving our to Orygun and retired my [modded] Tricams about 12 years ago. By and large they are pretty pointless for what I climb here, but if I were to go back to granite or pocketed sanstone I'd probably bring them out of retirement. Overall I rate them better than the Forrest Titons which essentially preceded them - but let's not get carried away.
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sungam
Nov 18, 2009, 11:52 PM
Post #122 of 181
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I only carry them in the winter, and a pink one in the alpine.
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altelis
Nov 19, 2009, 4:15 AM
Post #123 of 181
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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sungam wrote: I only carry them in the winter, and a pink one in the alpine. i like carrying the smallest 2-3 sizes of the tri-cam, but not really for using mid pitch. i really like them for anchor stances. they are relatively light and if you are creative they fit a ton of places. the are kinda like insurance if mid pitch i, ahem, over protect a bit and run down my other gear for use at the anchor....
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dr_feelgood
Nov 19, 2009, 4:22 AM
Post #124 of 181
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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petsfed wrote: hafilax wrote: petsfed wrote: quietpartner wrote: All you tricam-hating pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to use them. Dey's da bomb! All you tricam-loving pussies need to get off your lazy asses and learn how to climb harder than 5.7. Dey's da etc. I believe that souprasoup put this myth to rest above. I will readily concede that there are certain 5.10 and harder routes that simply will not go without a tricam. These routes, of course, have never been climbed by the cult of the tricam. I've yet to see a "tricam only" placement that couldn't have been protected faster with a TCU or alien for the same quality of protection. I know how to set them, I even know how to clean tricams that have been fallen on. I find nothing wrong with the device as such. Just the slack-jawed, glassy-eyed bumblies who hold their pink tricams with pride as if knowing how to operate one is some sort of status symbol. I actually hate my #7 tricam because of its total instability in most every place I've attempted to use it as protection. I climb a lot of that size, so compared to the 3 cams and one big bro I have of equivalent girth, I really do hate it. But I bit my tongue because I didn't want to incur the wraith of the Esoteric Order of the Pink & Red. Pink, Red and Brown. The three colors of buttsecks. (I personally carry pink to blue, but definitely prefer to plug a small cam over a tricam)
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nikmit
Nov 19, 2009, 7:35 AM
Post #125 of 181
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Registered: Feb 10, 2009
Posts: 55
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healyje wrote: sungam wrote: nikmit wrote: Petzl Shunt- it’s probably my fault here, but I couldn’t make one smooth rappel- either too fast, either too bouncy plus it weighs like a truck. No, it's probably the fault of the shunt for NOT BEING A RAPPEL DEVICE. Yes, the Shunt is one of the least understood and appreciated pieces of gear out there. It is possibly the BEST piece of gear on earth for rapping with loads or doing vertical work with loads. BUT, you have to know how to use one. The best way I've found to use them is to put it directly on your belay loop with a locker and then put your rappel device above it on the belay loop, but at the end of either two, unextended and opposed trad draws or a single draw with lockers( one or the other of those goes to the locker on your belay device). Once you have that configuration setup then hang your load or haul bag from the belay device locker - not your belay loop or any other attachment on your person. Make sure you extend the load down somehow so that it [securley] hangs with the top of it about mid-thigh level. Manage and operate the rappel with the Shunt alone - just completely ignore the actual device you are rappelling on. Do that and rappels with 120 lb. loads are effortless, smooth as silk, and stopping to work and restarting require no energy at all. Shunts friggin' rule. OK, not being able to use it as a backup rappel device which lets you control your rap speed As I said it's my fault probably and I couldn't make it work for me, so I'm back to prussik.
(This post was edited by nikmit on Nov 19, 2009, 7:36 AM)
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