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deadpointman
Mar 25, 2005, 7:03 AM
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The exercise physiology principle of VARIATION is key here. First, to eliminate the possibility of overtraining being a problem. Take at least a fulll week off from climbing and training. Then, do something different. Try adding weight to your body and doing fewer reps. Or, try doing around thirty reps my having someone assist you or using a lat pulldown machine with less than bodyweight. The bottom line is that you have to change the focus of your workouts periodically or you will reach a plateau where you completely cease to improve. The best of luck to all you pullup fiends out there!
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nem0
Mar 25, 2005, 8:08 AM
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First Post here...Have you tried using a campus board?? Pull ups wont help you if you can't hold on to the hold. I really can't think of a single problem (minus dynos) that would still be hard if all the holds were replaced with jugs. Therefore, I think it is best to train by pulling on small or slopy holds. One arm pull ups on crimps and slopers is my goal, but I can't do one arm pull ups...so I think I will start by doing one arms on jugs and dead hangs on crimps, then combine the two when the times comes. Also, have you guys tried hanging one arm (or 2) on an edge open handed and then rolling it to a crimp and then letting it back out? Neither have I, but I here it helps.
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lucas_timmer
Mar 25, 2005, 9:50 AM
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I can't do more than 5 pullups in a set, but I can do a lock off with my hand palms towards me for 40 seconds and with my palms in the other direction for 30 seconds.
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jorian_nl
Mar 25, 2005, 12:00 PM
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I can do on my stair 25 pullups on a normal day,30 on a good day. can do a lock-off for about 1 minute.
I weigh only 60 kg.
I hope to do a one-arm pullup when I am 20
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lucas_timmer
Mar 25, 2005, 1:32 PM
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In reply to: I can do on my stair 25 pullups on a normal day,30 on a good day. can do a lock-off for about 1 minute. I weigh only 60 kg. I hope to do a one-arm pullup when I am 20
I don't bother if I can't do a one arm pull-up, I don't see why you have to do 40 pull-ups.you don't need those movements very much for climbing.
P.S. I can do something like 50-60 with pauzes, not on a row.
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jorian_nl
Mar 25, 2005, 2:24 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I can do on my stair 25 pullups on a normal day,30 on a good day. can do a lock-off for about 1 minute. I weigh only 60 kg. I hope to do a one-arm pullup when I am 20 So that will be in 5 years ?? I don't bother if I can't do a one arm pull-up, I don't see why you have to do 40 pull-ups.you don't need those movements very much for climbing. P.S. I can do something like 50-60 with pauzes, not on a row.
That's true, I know girls that climb harder than me but they can't do one pull-up.
I ment that I can do 25 pull-ups without resting, never tried with pauzes.
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lucas_timmer
Mar 25, 2005, 2:35 PM
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In reply to: I know girls that climb harder than me but they can't do one pull-up. |
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jt512
Mar 25, 2005, 5:15 PM
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In reply to: ...I can do a lock off with my hand palms towards me for 40 seconds...
AND THIS HAS TO DO WHAT WITH ROCK CLIMBING!?
-Jay
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fluxus
Mar 25, 2005, 5:44 PM
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In reply to: First Post here...snip . . . Also, have you guys tried hanging one arm (or 2) on an edge open handed and then rolling it to a crimp and then letting it back out? Neither have I, but I here it helps.
This thread contains a lot of ideas that are fraknly rather silly and that have nothing to do with climbing. The above idea may be one of the worst one's yet. Why? Because it requires the wrong type of muscular contraction done in a way that is begging for injury.
Is this thread for real or is it just one big troll fest?
sorry to shut you down on your very first post. better luck next time.
In reply to: In reply to: . . .I can do a lock off with my hand palms towards me for 40 seconds . . AND THIS HAS TO DO WHAT WITH ROCK CLIMBING!?
What it has to do with rock climbing is that its a great thing to say when you are hanging on the rope after failing on your 40th red point attempt on your 5.9- slab project. "I can lock off for 40 seconds! how come I can't do this thing?!"
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mheyman
Mar 25, 2005, 5:56 PM
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I recently started weight training due to a shoulder injury. I found I was one of the weaker males in the gym. I couldn’t figure out how I could climb as well as I do, and be so weak. I m not under weight either.
I proved to myself something I already knew: technique is as important as strength.
Eventually I learned that I did have some strength. It was not in the muscles pulling down as in a pull up, it is in the muscles pulling in. Good climbers mostly hold themselves on the rock/wall with their arms only as necessary, and move using their legs.
Incidentally my shoulder injury might have been worsened by imbalanced muscle mass. I now do a well-rounded weight work out. So far it appears to be helping.
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climbaddic
Mar 25, 2005, 6:00 PM
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What does pullup got to do with climbing? If you are trying to climb better, go with technique. Technique will get you much much further. Also, ladies will appreciate your technique more than your pullup power :)
I think I can do like 10 pullup on my good day, but I can still keep up climbing with majority of the people. I remember there used to be this girl who can't do a single pullup, but she climbs 5.12.
Just a thought.
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nem0
Mar 25, 2005, 7:17 PM
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In response to fluxus...That method came dirrectly from James Litz. He is perhaps the strongest climber on crimps in the world...are you? You shoot things down without even a thought. One question, how hard DO you climb? Why don't you try these methods before you shoot them down. Wait, you probably can't...you are not strong enough, and you will probably never be strong enough because you are to stuck up and to afraid of getting injured. Alright, enough personal response. Now, let me give you a few problems were it is necesary to essentially do a one arm off of a small hold AND roll it to a crimp from open hand: God Module (HP Alabama), No Greener Grass (Mt Evan CO), When Harry Met Sally (Squamish, BC), Sharma Lung (Squamish, BC), Atomic Melvin (Boone, NC), men's finals problem number 4 The Spot ABS nationals 2005. My point is that I have found my weeknesses from dirrect experience. I know that I need to work on one arm pullups and lockoffs on small crimps and rolling crimps from open handed to crimped if I want to better my climbing. Those friends of mine that can do these do better on those problems mentioned above and all the others in the world. Thats a fact. Maybe you don't need to get this streangth...I don't know, I dont know you! But I do, and who are you to tell me that I don't. I am just trying to give people Ideas here. Don't rain on the parade. :lol:
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fluxus
Mar 25, 2005, 7:40 PM
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In reply to: In response to fluxus...That method came dirrectly from James Litz. He is perhaps the strongest climber on crimps in the world...are you? You shoot things down without even a thought. One question, how hard DO you climb? Why don't you try these methods before you shoot them down. Wait, you probably can't...you are not strong enough, and you will probably never be strong enough because you are to stuck up and to afraid of getting injured. Alright, enough personal response. Now, let me give you a few problems were it is necesary to essentially do a one arm off of a small hold AND roll it to a crimp from open hand: God Module (HP Alabama), No Greener Grass (Mt Evan CO), When Harry Met Sally (Squamish, BC), Sharma Lung (Squamish, BC), Atomic Melvin (Boone, NC), men's finals problem number 4 The Spot ABS nationals 2005. My point is that I have found my weeknesses from dirrect experience. I know that I need to work on one arm pullups and lockoffs on small crimps and rolling crimps from open handed to crimped if I want to better my climbing. Those friends of mine that can do these do better on those problems mentioned above and all the others in the world. Thats a fact. Maybe you don't need to get this streangth...I don't know, I dont know you! But I do, and who are you to tell me that I don't. I am just trying to give people Ideas here. Don't rain on the parade. :lol:
Dude, you are so awesome! First of all I shoot things down with 25 years of thought not no thought. Second, although my best climbing is long behind me the climbing I could do in a day 10 years ago is still far out of reach for about 95% of American climbers.
What should impress you about a workout is not weather or not it comes from a rad climber but if it makes mechanical or physiological sense. which the workout you advocate does not.
later
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nem0
Mar 25, 2005, 8:01 PM
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My point is that these methods work for people. Cauch Potato analysis is no substitute for real results, I don't care who you are. Doing one arms on small holds and slopers, and being able to roll holds to crimps WILL help your climbing. There are many situations that will require these skills. I am trying to give, and find, ways of gaining these skills. Hanging one arm on an edge (door jamb will do) and rolling it to a crimp and then doing one arms on it....if you work up to this, I gaurantee you will climb harder...oh by the way, I dig your elitest attitude. What are these 'amazing routes' you did 10 years ago? Action direct?...that went up about 10 years ago, right?
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sidepull
Mar 25, 2005, 8:21 PM
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I'm curious about the dude that did pullups every time he walked into his room: could you do a one-arm lock off before you started training this way?
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screamer
Mar 25, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Ok, nemo and fluxus i got my popcorn..continue... :D
healthy debate
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clmbr121
Mar 25, 2005, 8:48 PM
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Which will be the better main event?
Nemo vs. Fluxus
or
DJ vs RO (in the Zion History thread)
I know...we settle this in a cage match!
First one to campus out wins!
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maxclimber1w
Mar 25, 2005, 8:54 PM
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I used to able to do 30 pullups, when I was about 13 (no lower body strength/weight), and can now only do about 20 tops, if I push it a little. However, I climb much better than I used to, and only do pullups when I am desperate for some pump and haven't been climbing for a few days. Personally, I think that core strength is much more important than pullup training. You can do alot of climbing-specific core workouts on a pullup bar, too.
That said, I do sometimes train lockoffs on my pullup bar. I can't do dynamic moves for the life of me and often need to lock off and reeeach to make some of these moves.
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fluxus
Mar 25, 2005, 8:55 PM
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In reply to: My point is that these methods work for people. Cauch Potato analysis is no substitute for real results, I don't care who you are. Doing one arms on small holds and slopers, and being able to roll holds to crimps WILL help your climbing. There are many situations that will require these skills. I am trying to give, and find, ways of gaining these skills. Hanging one arm on an edge (door jamb will do) and rolling it to a crimp and then doing one arms on it....if you work up to this, I gaurantee you will climb harder...oh by the way, I dig your elitest attitude. What are these 'amazing routes' you did 10 years ago? Action direct?...that went up about 10 years ago, right?
Gotta love the rad dudes with chips on their shoulders.
Your point is moot (to quote an old SNL sketch). Climbers do many things that they think "WILL" help their climbing that are based on ideology or preconcieved notions but that have little relation to the actual demands of climbing performance. The activities you advocate are great examples. I'm quite sure that these party tricks require impressive strength from the upper back and arm but they are not based, in any rigorous way, on the physiological demands of climbing performance. do you understand what this means?
I know I am wasting my time here, but I'll finish the thought. You clearly have very passionate feelings about certain types of activities and their impact on climbing but what you lack is an understanding of how climbing works, how the body creates movement, what muscles are involved, the intensities and durations of work involved etc etc etc.
I wonder why you think my analysis is "cauch potato" its anything but that. I am one of the few people in the US who has actually spent time trying to quantify climbing movement and the demands of climbing performance at any given level. But from your posts I'm not sure you will understand what that means.
Action Direct was put up well before 1995. Remember Wolfgang had been dead for some time at that point.
As for my climbing, I'm sure nothing I write will impress you, which is fine. But since you asked, a good training day for me 11 years ago included about a dozen pitches of 5.13 with 2 - 4 minutes rest between each and then another dozen pitches of 5.12 and then 6 - 10 pitches of easier stuff for a warm up and cool down. And yea, I bouldered harder than V10 and all that. The fact that I could red point 5.14 in under 10 tries is not impressive by todays standards but there are still not many climbers who can handel the volume of 5.13 I could in a day.
peace
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a_guy_named_smith
Mar 25, 2005, 9:07 PM
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BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMM
take that you young whippersnapper you
fluxus
lands the haymaker
it landed so hard that we might just have to search to
find nemo
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screamer
Mar 25, 2005, 9:08 PM
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Personally i think fluxus should have his own coaching/training column. Not sure if your coaching anymore, i remeber when you where coaching at RR in the mid 90's. But i do think what you have to say about the physiology of climbing is very educational.
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fluxus
Mar 25, 2005, 9:20 PM
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Thanks you guys, just trying to entertain. . . But I'm sure Nem0 will come right back at me, with a hum dinger.
what's up kevin? It sound like you are climbing well and climbing often. :-)
peace
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clmbr121
Mar 25, 2005, 9:28 PM
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In reply to: fluxus lands the haymaker
...more of a bitch slap, methinks. :wink:
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a_guy_named_smith
Mar 25, 2005, 10:05 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: fluxus lands the haymaker ...more of a b---- slap, methinks. :wink:
ohh good point
fluxus is clearly to old to punch hard
and i bet that he has arthritis so bad from all of his years of bad training techniques that he cant even close his hand
yup bitch slap it was
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lucas_timmer
Mar 25, 2005, 10:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: ...I can do a lock off with my hand palms towards me for 40 seconds... AND THIS HAS TO DO WHAT WITH ROCK CLIMBING!? -Jay |
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