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snoopy138
Jan 7, 2008, 6:29 PM
Post #26 of 127
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ptftw!
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camhead
Jan 7, 2008, 6:36 PM
Post #27 of 127
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LAY OFF TEH PTFTW KNUCKLEHEAD DINGBAT!
Oh, and instead of chipping the boulder, you should make it a bolt ladder to practice high-stepping in. Then, in 30 years, someone will come and free it as a route.
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onceahardman
Jan 7, 2008, 6:39 PM
Post #28 of 127
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In reply to: Older routes in Yosemite were pinned all to hell. Its very hard to climb an old trade route in the Valley without contantly using pinscars. Some of the classics wouldn't BE classics sans those scars.
Very true, in fact, the Lost Arrow Spire would (almost) CERTAINLY have not gone free without pin scarring.
There are many other examples. there is also a philosophical difference between freeing an aid line, and chipping a blank face for "free" climbing.
What about this???? What if somebody chipped a blank face? Then, sombody else fills the holds with bondo, and chips new holds elsewhere? Do we have any standards here?
anecdote:/ At niagara glen, there is a boulder (impossiboulder) It has been looked at longingly for 40 years, at 90 degrees and marble-smooth. Old-school 5.12 climbers have rigged topropes to try to find a way up this impressive piece of rock. Finally, the "new generation" has found a couple of very stiff routes here. (without using topropes-now illegal here) Standards advance. don't steal the future. It doesn't belong to you. /anecdote
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tomcat
Jan 8, 2008, 5:30 PM
Post #29 of 127
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Why not just put some chalk on the smallest features you can find and then just SAY you did it?
Way less work,just as daft and someone can still send it in it's original state later....
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boulderballerina
Jan 8, 2008, 6:22 PM
Post #30 of 127
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ok Obe ...this is how it goes:every discipline has the top players...the elite...those who are on top of the game ...and for those people a different set of rules and ethicks aply ...so as far as chipping and climbing/bouldering goes ...it is ok for those who deal with V13/14/15 or 5.14c/d ....and it is helping to push the envelop further ...and it has been going on for last 20 years ...and majority of 'hard' lines has been thus modifyed,more or less ...BUT...you must be The Elite to understand and do it senseably and even then there has been a lot of 'bad' chiping ...and since the Plebs can not understand...the Elite doesn't talk about it...cos:
it is NO,NO,NO to chiping to suit your personal bounderies ...UNLESS you are pushing 'the world' boundery ......
good luck to you alll
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timd
Jan 9, 2008, 6:40 AM
Post #32 of 127
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bizarrodrinker wrote: It is definitely cool to chip an otherwise blank face. You might also take a hold or two from the gym so you can give the slopers a little bit of an edge. That way you can also ensure that the problem doesn't get weathered or wirebrushed in the future.
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dbrayack
Jan 9, 2008, 11:48 AM
Post #33 of 127
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Is it limestone? If it is, you can drill pockets, then get some strong acid to make it look natural...works like a charm. Send me a PM and I'll give you the acid concentrations that I'm using...also, a Fossil Hammer works well for opening stuff up...
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 9, 2008, 12:47 PM
Post #34 of 127
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timd wrote: bizarrodrinker wrote: It is definitely cool to chip an otherwise blank face. You might also take a hold or two from the gym so you can give the slopers a little bit of an edge. That way you can also ensure that the problem doesn't get weathered or wirebrushed in the future. Do the world a huge favor...KILL YOURSELF!
Dude you are a complete ass if you thought I was even partially serious. I thought the bringing of plastic would have been a dead giveaway on the sarcasm. Guess not.
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cintune
Jan 10, 2008, 12:48 AM
Post #35 of 127
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cintune
Jan 10, 2008, 1:18 AM
Post #37 of 127
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It's a commercial outfit: http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/
But yeah, chipping is bad, m'kay?
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a.frosch
Jan 10, 2008, 2:11 AM
Post #38 of 127
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jgill wrote: obe wrote: ... so, i know this isn't a problem i think that the "future generation" can send. One thing I've learned in the past 54 years: never underestimate a future generation. 
Standing on the shoulders of giants...
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timd
Jan 10, 2008, 7:58 AM
Post #40 of 127
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bizarrodrinker wrote: timd wrote: bizarrodrinker wrote: It is definitely cool to chip an otherwise blank face. You might also take a hold or two from the gym so you can give the slopers a little bit of an edge. That way you can also ensure that the problem doesn't get weathered or wirebrushed in the future. Do the world a huge favor...KILL YOURSELF! Dude you are a complete ass if you thought I was even partially serious. I thought the bringing of plastic would have been a dead giveaway on the sarcasm. Guess not.  , I have actually heard of that. My bad.
P.S. And I am a complete ass, just ask my wife
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 10, 2008, 12:29 PM
Post #41 of 127
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timd wrote: bizarrodrinker wrote: timd wrote: bizarrodrinker wrote: It is definitely cool to chip an otherwise blank face. You might also take a hold or two from the gym so you can give the slopers a little bit of an edge. That way you can also ensure that the problem doesn't get weathered or wirebrushed in the future. Do the world a huge favor...KILL YOURSELF! Dude you are a complete ass if you thought I was even partially serious. I thought the bringing of plastic would have been a dead giveaway on the sarcasm. Guess not. Sorry , I have actually heard of that. My bad. P.S. And I am a complete ass, just ask my wife
No Worries. I actually mentioned it cause of the REAL ass who chipped, drilled, scrapped, glued and put up plastic on the one side of the cacodemon boulder in Squamish.
That always made me kinda irrate cause the most blank face is always cool to look at and wonder if some maniac could ever climb it.
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dbrayack
Jan 10, 2008, 12:54 PM
Post #42 of 127
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notapplicable wrote: cintune wrote: Looks sick! Whens the guide book coming out?
I call the BLUE ROUTE!
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michaelmay513
Jan 10, 2008, 12:56 PM
Post #43 of 127
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I'm so sick of the whole chipping BS!!! If you need to chip it go the fuck ahead and do so. I'll climb something else!!!! Assholes
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dondada
Jan 10, 2008, 12:57 PM
Post #44 of 127
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this site has more telephone tuff guys and ego maniacs than a video game chat room.........people who drive suv's, live in america, buy nylon and plastic climbing equipment and think there "preserving" anything for future generations are just stupid.......chipping a wall in my opinion isn't a great idea but ......im not gonna act like some one who dose is the devil or should die..........give me a break............go live in the woods of africa and stop buying products from corperations that dont give a shit about the environment and then you may have a leg to stand on when it comes to chewing someone out for putting a few chips in a big rock.........have some prospective................................(insert snotty quips and climbing pseudo purest comments below)
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dbrayack
Jan 10, 2008, 12:58 PM
Post #45 of 127
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I just went to that site....Man, this is how Peta must feel when they see a racoon starved to death for its fur....
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dingus
Jan 10, 2008, 1:21 PM
Post #47 of 127
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dondada wrote: this site has more telephone tuff guys and ego maniacs than a video game chat room.........people who drive suv's, live in america, buy nylon and plastic climbing equipment and think there "preserving" anything for future generations are just stupid.......
Probably right but a lot of us are excellent spellers.
DMT
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notapplicable
Jan 10, 2008, 1:22 PM
Post #48 of 127
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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dondada wrote: this site has more telephone tuff guys and ego maniacs than a video game chat room.........people who drive suv's, live in america, buy nylon and plastic climbing equipment and think there "preserving" anything for future generations are just stupid.......chipping a wall in my opinion isn't a great idea but ......im not gonna act like some one who dose is the devil or should die..........give me a break............go live in the woods of africa and stop buying products from corperations that dont give a shit about the environment and then you may have a leg to stand on when it comes to chewing someone out for putting a few chips in a big rock.........have some prospective................................(insert snotty quips and climbing pseudo purest comments below)
Ok. We all know an ATV enthusiast trolling a climbing we site when we see one. Carry on, carry on, carry your ass on...
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skunkhand
Jan 10, 2008, 1:30 PM
Post #49 of 127
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Posts: 25
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All natural features are off.
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dbrayack
Jan 10, 2008, 1:35 PM
Post #50 of 127
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 1260
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Oh...its worth going, trust me!
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