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stymingersfink
Aug 9, 2008, 12:08 AM
Post #5751 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: chossmonkey wrote: stymingersfink wrote: chossmonkey wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: artm wrote: the_climber wrote: My Eddy just arrived at the shop!!!!!!!1one WHOO! Now I just need to figure out how to pick it up before the shop is closed till after all the employees (all 2 of them) get back from the SLC show.... they close at 6pm, I get off at 6pm, no-one will be at the shop till the 12th after 6pm.  The wife can't run down there and pick it up? Made it just in time and I now have it at home! I'll start putting it through the ringer tomorrow on a new route under regular belay duty, then will move onto some aid, and falls, then will put it to the ropes solo test. First impressions are good. You wouldn't believe how well it feeds out rope compaired to a GriGri. The locking mechanism is a little different, but rigged up in my basement it took a grand total of about 30 second to figure out and become proficient at releasing, feeding out slack, and releasing the "panic pull" lock off feature. It's definitely not the lightest thing, but it sure as hell is burly! Will post more on it after the weekend. what's the smallest diameter rope recommended for it? I recently unwrapped a 9.7 that'd been sitting in my gear closet for the past few years and quickly discovered it's a little thin for me to feel comfortable using in my grigri. Maybe this will change as it wears in a bit and I get used to how smoothly it flows through my 'gri, but IDK... time will tell, I guess. It'd be nice to know if I have other options. How worn is your grigri? I've never had trouble with 9.7's as long as the grigri isn't worn. We have two grigris, one for skinny ropes and a well worn one for fatties. it's showing a little wear on the aluminum sideplate, but the stainless (at least, I think it's stainless) parts look as good as the day it was purchased. I have another grigri somewhere that I purchased after temporarily misplacing my first one, but unfortunately I have now misplaced it. Damn. I think the brand-new rope may have something to do with the ease of feeding, though I'm sure the skinny diameter of said rope might deserve equal credit. They can wear more than you think. New ropes can be really slippery though. Especially dry-treated ropes. 
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artm
Aug 9, 2008, 1:09 AM
Post #5752 of 26795
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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chossmonkey wrote: stymingersfink wrote: chossmonkey wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: artm wrote: the_climber wrote: My Eddy just arrived at the shop!!!!!!!1one WHOO! Now I just need to figure out how to pick it up before the shop is closed till after all the employees (all 2 of them) get back from the SLC show.... they close at 6pm, I get off at 6pm, no-one will be at the shop till the 12th after 6pm. The wife can't run down there and pick it up? Made it just in time and I now have it at home! I'll start putting it through the ringer tomorrow on a new route under regular belay duty, then will move onto some aid, and falls, then will put it to the ropes solo test. First impressions are good. You wouldn't believe how well it feeds out rope compaired to a GriGri. The locking mechanism is a little different, but rigged up in my basement it took a grand total of about 30 second to figure out and become proficient at releasing, feeding out slack, and releasing the "panic pull" lock off feature. It's definitely not the lightest thing, but it sure as hell is burly! Will post more on it after the weekend. what's the smallest diameter rope recommended for it? I recently unwrapped a 9.7 that'd been sitting in my gear closet for the past few years and quickly discovered it's a little thin for me to feel comfortable using in my grigri. Maybe this will change as it wears in a bit and I get used to how smoothly it flows through my 'gri, but IDK... time will tell, I guess. It'd be nice to know if I have other options. How worn is your grigri? I've never had trouble with 9.7's as long as the grigri isn't worn. We have two grigris, one for skinny ropes and a well worn one for fatties. it's showing a little wear on the aluminum sideplate, but the stainless (at least, I think it's stainless) parts look as good as the day it was purchased. I have another grigri somewhere that I purchased after temporarily misplacing my first one, but unfortunately I have now misplaced it. Damn. I think the brand-new rope may have something to do with the ease of feeding, though I'm sure the skinny diameter of said rope might deserve equal credit. They can wear more than you think. New ropes can be really slippery though.
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the_climber
Aug 9, 2008, 3:12 AM
Post #5753 of 26795
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Posts: 6142
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artm wrote: stymingersfink wrote: artm wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: artm wrote: the_climber wrote: My Eddy just arrived at the shop!!!!!!!1one WHOO! Now I just need to figure out how to pick it up before the shop is closed till after all the employees (all 2 of them) get back from the SLC show.... they close at 6pm, I get off at 6pm, no-one will be at the shop till the 12th after 6pm. The wife can't run down there and pick it up? Made it just in time and I now have it at home! I'll start putting it through the ringer tomorrow on a new route under regular belay duty, then will move onto some aid, and falls, then will put it to the ropes solo test. First impressions are good. You wouldn't believe how well it feeds out rope compaired to a GriGri. The locking mechanism is a little different, but rigged up in my basement it took a grand total of about 30 second to figure out and become proficient at releasing, feeding out slack, and releasing the "panic pull" lock off feature. It's definitely not the lightest thing, but it sure as hell is burly! Will post more on it after the weekend. what's the smallest diameter rope recommended for it? I recently unwrapped a 9.7 that'd been sitting in my gear closet for the past few years and quickly discovered it's a little thin for me to feel comfortable using in my grigri. Maybe this will change as it wears in a bit and I get used to how smoothly it flows through my 'gri, but IDK... time will tell, I guess. It'd be nice to know if I have other options. Don't trust that 9.7 in autolock mode, you still need to keep the brake hand on. Tripper got dropped by the mangler that way. This was my first realization, and though by and large not a big deal since I retain control of the brake side when belaying anyway, I also was able to immediately rule out using the skinny rope for roped soloing with teh_grigri. To clarify, I know you rope solo and that's why I made my statement. good on ya for figuring it out for yourself though.
Yeah, I'd have to say when it comes to roped solo 9.8 is about as skinny as I'll trust for any device on lead.
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snoopy138
Aug 9, 2008, 4:24 AM
Post #5754 of 26795
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: Oh, and WMD outside of teh aide you needz to learn how to rack on teh harness. Keeps the gearzling from getting in teh wai of klimbing. Lies!!! All lies!!! Unless you are climbing they WSG roof cracks. It still depends, imo, but the sling worked pretty well for me. It frees up harness clutter, for sure. Once you get used to it swinging around it is way better than harness racking in most situations. I find gear on my harness gets in the way more than on a sling. But I guess it depends on the route. At least with a sling it is easy to move. That's just it. The sling gets in the way of things. I have been doing the majority of leading within my climbing circle in the past 18 months and i find it much more convienent for me to just rack on my harness. Plus, the comfort level is better for me. Again, to each thier own.
this is definitely rong.
whichever way CI does something is 100% RONG.
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snoopy138
Aug 9, 2008, 5:12 AM
Post #5755 of 26795
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obsessed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: chossmonkey wrote: obsessed wrote: . I saw the classic bands when I was in college. Any guesses which ones? The Beetles and the Rolling Stones? CCR Jimi Hendrix The Grateful Dead Jefferson Airplane and lets not forget.... The Monkees Okay, you are not allowed to guess anymore.
Chuck Berry?
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snoopy138
Aug 9, 2008, 9:05 PM
Post #5756 of 26795
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granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Sure, my last day to PC++ and it is dead in here. Nate got a jorb? Say it ain't so! It aint so. I'm leaving for the Midwest where I'll be busy and probably not have much intardnet access for a couple weeks. You're going to be buried when you get back! Wut ever. I'll be on more than when we went to the Canadian Midwest. You on the other hand, you will be buried very deep by the time you are done with your trip. okay now I'm really confused. I thought you were going to WI for a family thingy. Why are you going to the canadian midwest? Where exactly is the canadian midwest? we don't have a midwest. We have a north, south, east and west. No mid west. You are not in America anymore dorothy Wow....are you drunk? Or do you just not understand the difference between past and present tense. When we went to Alberta last year there was a frinkn algae bloom in the OGBET.
the beginning of the glory daze.
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snoopy138
Aug 9, 2008, 9:11 PM
Post #5757 of 26795
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kachoong wrote: the_climber wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: obsessed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: obsessed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Sure, my last day to PC++ and it is dead in here. why is that? You actually going to do some real work? Are you trying to tell me being a housewife and a mother isn't a full time job? damn right it is. But you are not a mother and have no kiddies. We do to have a kitty. Yes, but I heard Calvin is an Asshole. I've heard this too. All cats are assholes!
rong.
I'd post up some calvinB0MBZ, but I'm not at home write now.
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snoopy138
Aug 9, 2008, 9:52 PM
Post #5758 of 26795
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obsessed wrote: the_climber wrote: obsessed wrote: the_climber wrote: obsessed wrote: granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Sure, my last day to PC++ and it is dead in here. Nate got a jorb? Say it ain't so! It aint so. I'm leaving for the Midwest where I'll be busy and probably not have much intardnet access for a couple weeks. You're going to be buried when you get back! Wut ever. I'll be on more than when we went to the Canadian Midwest. You on the other hand, you will be buried very deep by the time you are done with your trip. okay now I'm really confused. I thought you were going to WI for a family thingy. Why are you going to the canadian midwest? Where exactly is the canadian midwest? we don't have a midwest. We have a north, south, east and west. No mid west. You are not in America anymore dorothy Wow....are you drunk? Or do you just not understand the difference between past and present tense. When we went to Alberta last year there was a frinkn algae bloom in the OBET. I wasn't drunk, I just couldn't see very well to read.  Thanks for clearing up that little word went for me. Admit it, you were smashed! I never admit anything. I was going to ask you though, being Canadian and all, and living west. Do we have a Canadian mid west? I think not. Nope no midwest in Canada... There's the East Coast, Frog land, Onterrible, Nothern Onterrible, Alberta, teh Rockies, teh Purcells, the interior, the Coast Range, the West Coast, Nothern BC, The Yukon (Kick ass place BTW), NWT's, Nunavut and Baffin Island then Back to the NewfyLand. I have heard there is something between Nothern Onterrible and ALberta, but I'm nto quite sure what it is.... Pugitory comes to mind, hell (but only in summer), hell frozen over (but only in winter)... these things I've been told. hahah a simple no answer would have sufficed, but okay I like your description and totally agree. So nate, there is NO midwest Canada
sounds to me like saskatchewan/manitoba is the canuckian midwest.
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snoopy138
Aug 9, 2008, 10:47 PM
Post #5759 of 26795
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granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I'm bored. I know I should go do something useful, like paint the bathroom, but I may or may not be going bouldering in a couple of hours (waiting for my friend to call). Ya know what? I hate Southern Ontario. I couldn't find anyone who would go sport climbing with me this weekend. *pout* Cheesetits is not going to show up if you want to go bouldering. History reinforces this. I'm going to bolt some shit in a few hours. Waiting for the rain to pass right now. Grrrr It wasn't me she was waiting for. She does have more than one friend And indeed I did go bouldering. I had a better time yesterday than Saturday, my arms are tight and my shoulders a little sore. Kelly, I still can't get through the backstroke crux, but I might be getting closer. By the fall we will nail that suka!! Its my grip strength that keeps failing me. Either I need to get on it all the time, or I've got to find slopers I can actually hang on to in the basement and set up some sort of system wall section. Problem in question from three years ago (for any that might be interested): 
is this the only boulder problem in Southern Ontario? Don't get me rong, it looks fun, but I think I've scene about 75 pictures of this and zero of other problemz.
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wanderlustmd
Aug 9, 2008, 10:49 PM
Post #5760 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: I am one hurt unit today. My whole body is sore. I'm kinda happy we didn't have all three days this weekend. Bec repeated her hardest RP and made some good progress on her new project. I onsighted two 7b's on sunday. Even if Jack downrates them to 7a+ its still the first time I've onsighted two on the same day. Monday I cleaned the mud and cobwebs out of the Monument and started taking my licks again on that.
Nice!
Good job on the onsights and RPs you two.
You are better than me!
I walked by the Zombie Roof yesterday, two guys were working it. It looks hard.
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wanderlustmd
Aug 9, 2008, 10:49 PM
Post #5761 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: obsessed wrote: Looks lik e you are doing a fair amount of climbing wmd. pictures are awesome. thanks for sharing and keep em coming That looked like one days worth to me.
*flipz fing3r*
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epoch
Moderator
Aug 9, 2008, 10:52 PM
Post #5762 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: obsessed wrote: Looks lik e you are doing a fair amount of climbing wmd. pictures are awesome. thanks for sharing and keep em coming That looked like one days worth to me. *flipz fing3r*
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wanderlustmd
Aug 9, 2008, 10:58 PM
Post #5763 of 26795
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Almost caught up, but they are closing the library.
I leave on Tuesday to meet some friends in the valley. It will still be really hot, but not much I can do about it. We will still have fun.
I've had a great time in Squamish. Long routes, short routes, bouldering. I'm sharing a tent sight with a Slovenian guy who climbs 8b+, he's been refining my technique and I've been teaching him how to trad climb. It's been great meeting other climbers.
Nearly onsighted my first .11 on gear. Monday is the last day, I really hope I send it. I could stay here for a few more weeks, easy!
Pix to come.
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granite_grrl
Aug 9, 2008, 11:15 PM
Post #5764 of 26795
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I'm bored. I know I should go do something useful, like paint the bathroom, but I may or may not be going bouldering in a couple of hours (waiting for my friend to call). Ya know what? I hate Southern Ontario. I couldn't find anyone who would go sport climbing with me this weekend. *pout* Cheesetits is not going to show up if you want to go bouldering. History reinforces this. I'm going to bolt some shit in a few hours. Waiting for the rain to pass right now. Grrrr It wasn't me she was waiting for. She does have more than one friend And indeed I did go bouldering. I had a better time yesterday than Saturday, my arms are tight and my shoulders a little sore. Kelly, I still can't get through the backstroke crux, but I might be getting closer. By the fall we will nail that suka!! Its my grip strength that keeps failing me. Either I need to get on it all the time, or I've got to find slopers I can actually hang on to in the basement and set up some sort of system wall section. Problem in question from three years ago (for any that might be interested): [image]http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v58/8/85/502206225/n502206225_11545_3313.jpg[/image] ? Don't get me rong, it looks fun, but I think I've scene about 75 pictures of this and zero of other problemz.
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granite_grrl
Aug 9, 2008, 11:19 PM
Post #5765 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: Almost caught up, but they are closing the library. I leave on Tuesday to meet some friends in the valley. It will still be really hot, but not much I can do about it. We will still have fun. I've had a great time in Squamish. Long routes, short routes, bouldering. I'm sharing a tent sight with a Slovenian guy who climbs 8b+, he's been refining my technique and I've been teaching him how to trad climb. It's been great meeting other climbers. Nearly onsighted my first .11 on gear. Monday is the last day, I really hope I send it. I could stay here for a few more weeks, easy! Pix to come.
You only just got to Squamish and you're already leaving?! For a place too hot to climb at too!
pssst - near onighting is just a nice way to say that you didn't send btw.
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wanderlustmd
Aug 9, 2008, 11:22 PM
Post #5766 of 26795
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Almost caught up, but they are closing the library. I leave on Tuesday to meet some friends in the valley. It will still be really hot, but not much I can do about it. We will still have fun. I've had a great time in Squamish. Long routes, short routes, bouldering. I'm sharing a tent sight with a Slovenian guy who climbs 8b+, he's been refining my technique and I've been teaching him how to trad climb. It's been great meeting other climbers. Nearly onsighted my first .11 on gear. Monday is the last day, I really hope I send it. I could stay here for a few more weeks, easy! Pix to come. You only just got to Squamish and you're already leaving?! For a place too hot to climb at too! pssst - near onighting is just a nice way to say that you didn't send btw.
That wasn't very nice.
Why are you still climbing routes you already RP'd? Are you afraid to fail?
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epoch
Moderator
Aug 9, 2008, 11:23 PM
Post #5767 of 26795
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wmd
keep kurrent.
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wanderlustmd
Aug 9, 2008, 11:25 PM
Post #5768 of 26795
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epoch wrote: wmd keep kurrent.
I have no idea what you mean.
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granite_grrl
Aug 9, 2008, 11:26 PM
Post #5769 of 26795
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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wanderlustmd wrote: granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Almost caught up, but they are closing the library. I leave on Tuesday to meet some friends in the valley. It will still be really hot, but not much I can do about it. We will still have fun. I've had a great time in Squamish. Long routes, short routes, bouldering. I'm sharing a tent sight with a Slovenian guy who climbs 8b+, he's been refining my technique and I've been teaching him how to trad climb. It's been great meeting other climbers. Nearly onsighted my first .11 on gear. Monday is the last day, I really hope I send it. I could stay here for a few more weeks, easy! Pix to come. You only just got to Squamish and you're already leaving?! For a place too hot to climb at too! pssst - near onighting is just a nice way to say that you didn't send btw.That wasn't very nice. Why are you still climbing routes you already RP'd? Are you afraid to fail?
Nah, the cliff we've been climbing at only has:
2x11a
2x11b
2x11a/b
3x11c
and up
I don't like the movement on the other 11a and the other 11b, and I've got to be motivated if I'm going to send something hard for me. Right now I'm working one of the 11b/c and one of the 11c. I feel I'm closer to the c than the b/c.
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wanderlustmd
Aug 9, 2008, 11:31 PM
Post #5770 of 26795
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granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Almost caught up, but they are closing the library. I leave on Tuesday to meet some friends in the valley. It will still be really hot, but not much I can do about it. We will still have fun. I've had a great time in Squamish. Long routes, short routes, bouldering. I'm sharing a tent sight with a Slovenian guy who climbs 8b+, he's been refining my technique and I've been teaching him how to trad climb. It's been great meeting other climbers. Nearly onsighted my first .11 on gear. Monday is the last day, I really hope I send it. I could stay here for a few more weeks, easy! Pix to come. You only just got to Squamish and you're already leaving?! For a place too hot to climb at too! pssst - near onighting is just a nice way to say that you didn't send btw.That wasn't very nice. Why are you still climbing routes you already RP'd? Are you afraid to fail? Nah, the cliff we've been climbing at only has: 2x11a 2x11b 2x11a/b 3x11c and up I don't like the movement on the other 11a and the other 11b, and I've got to be motivated if I'm going to send something hard for me. Right now I'm working one of the 11b/c and one of the 11c. I feel I'm closer to the c than the b/c.
I see.
I want to do a bit more sport climbing. I can climb cracks well, but I'm lacking on face.
Must klyme m0r3!!!111
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chossmonkey
Aug 9, 2008, 11:41 PM
Post #5771 of 26795
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: granite_grrl wrote: obsessed wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I'm bored. I know I should go do something useful, like paint the bathroom, but I may or may not be going bouldering in a couple of hours (waiting for my friend to call). Ya know what? I hate Southern Ontario. I couldn't find anyone who would go sport climbing with me this weekend. *pout* Cheesetits is not going to show up if you want to go bouldering. History reinforces this. I'm going to bolt some shit in a few hours. Waiting for the rain to pass right now. Grrrr It wasn't me she was waiting for. She does have more than one friend And indeed I did go bouldering. I had a better time yesterday than Saturday, my arms are tight and my shoulders a little sore. Kelly, I still can't get through the backstroke crux, but I might be getting closer. By the fall we will nail that suka!! Its my grip strength that keeps failing me. Either I need to get on it all the time, or I've got to find slopers I can actually hang on to in the basement and set up some sort of system wall section. Problem in question from three years ago (for any that might be interested): is this the only boulder problem in Southern Ontario? Don't get me rong, it looks fun, but I think I've scene about 75 pictures of this and zero of other problemz.
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chossmonkey
Aug 9, 2008, 11:43 PM
Post #5772 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I am one hurt unit today. My whole body is sore. I'm kinda happy we didn't have all three days this weekend. Bec repeated her hardest RP and made some good progress on her new project. I onsighted two 7b's on sunday. Even if Jack downrates them to 7a+ its still the first time I've onsighted two on the same day. Monday I cleaned the mud and cobwebs out of the Monument and started taking my licks again on that.Nice! Good job on the onsights and RPs you two. You are better than me! I walked by the Zombie Roof yesterday, two guys were working it. It looks hard.
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chossmonkey
Aug 9, 2008, 11:43 PM
Post #5773 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: obsessed wrote: Looks lik e you are doing a fair amount of climbing wmd. pictures are awesome. thanks for sharing and keep em coming That looked like one days worth to me. *flipz fing3r*
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chossmonkey
Aug 9, 2008, 11:44 PM
Post #5774 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: Almost caught up, but they are closing the library. I leave on Tuesday to meet some friends in the valley. It will still be really hot, but not much I can do about it. We will still have fun. I've had a great time in Squamish. Long routes, short routes, bouldering. I'm sharing a tent sight with a Slovenian guy who climbs 8b+, he's been refining my technique and I've been teaching him how to trad climb. It's been great meeting other climbers. Nearly onsighted my first .11 on gear. Monday is the last day, I really hope I send it. I could stay here for a few more weeks, easy! Pix to come.
I'm sure you could persuade the Slovenian guy to stay.
I didn't think your gate swung that way though.
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epoch
Moderator
Aug 9, 2008, 11:46 PM
Post #5775 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: epoch wrote: wmd keep kurrent. I have no idea what you mean.
with your pending move from squish to yosemite, keep tabs on hear.
Does munday through Wednesday work for a break from the valley?
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Re: [stymingersfink] The Lounge™
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