|
dingus
Dec 1, 2008, 4:40 PM
Post #101 of 228
(8525 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Oh shit I could NEVER narrow down the selection to ONE - its a crowded field with lots of viable contenders.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Dec 1, 2008, 4:44 PM
Post #102 of 228
(8523 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
notapplicable wrote: blondgecko wrote: I've consigned most of the nastiness to the recycle bin. This is supposed to be a fun thread - why turn it into a shitstorm? Damn it, I go cook diner and miss all the fun!! PM me the recycled stuff, inquiring minds want to know. 
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 1, 2008, 4:52 PM
Post #103 of 228
(8518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
not sure if it was dumb, as I had no other option, but here is the scariest thing I've done.
Was bailing off a climb, making a probably 62m rap with two 60m ropes: one static and one dynamic. Got down to about five feet above my anchors when I realized that my static rope would not allow me to reach the anchors. The knot joining the two ropes was on the dynamic side; otherwise I could have let a bit of that side slip through and made it down, but trust me, i was stuck.
So, I untied the knot in the static line, let it slip through my ATC, and took a slow fall, belayed only by the weight of the rope and drag through the above anchors, clipping the lower anchors with my daisy as I fell by.
scared me, but I am not sure what else I could have done.
|
|
|
|
|
Valarc
Dec 1, 2008, 4:55 PM
Post #104 of 228
(8517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
|
You should have split the rope open and rapped the core strands.
n00b.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Dec 1, 2008, 4:57 PM
Post #105 of 228
(8515 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Tried to go new routing when I had only lead one or two routes. The first route went well, and I onsighted it (with a bit of shakyness). The place was *shudder* dollar quarry, in the ochill hills in scotland. *cough* choss *chough*
It's a slab, and only about 50 or 60 feet tall, with an easy walk off. No problem, right? rong.
The rock texture is a smooth dollarite with sharp cracks spiderwebbing across the 20 foot wide ramp of slab with an impending slightly overhanging headwall to the right. Climbing up the middle of the slab to avoid the wet smear of lichen and moss growing in the shade of the headwall to the right, and the loose looking choss on the left of the slab(which dropped into another slightly overhanging wall) I got plenty of small pro into these little seams and slots. Then I reached a funny feature. It was a big left facing L-shaped block, begging to be mantled. But the bottom of the L stuck out about 2 or 3 feet, and was 4 or 5 feet tall. the ledge was sloping and grassy. It seem the only thing to was to climb up the right hand side (the left hand side was the chossy edge) then shimmy around the 3 foot wide block onto the ledge.
I climbed up the right hand side, and started to get nervous. My hands were sweating even more then normal, making my chalk bag gooey and the moves around the block even less secure. As I moved away from my last piece (level with the ledge, maybe a foot lower, but on the right hand side of that block) elvis leg kicked in and in no small fashion. Despite this, I quickly made my way onto the ledge without falling off. Then I got my first sight of the slab ahead.
It was soaked.
Soaked, mossy, all the cracks filled with mud, and the only good looking pro was next to a big old loose block that jiggilied like a big girls but when I poked it.
I tried for twentey minutes, maybe half an hour to reverse those moves or to got higher. There was no way up, no way down, and nowhere to slot what little pro I had left (it was all in the lower crack).
So I jumped off the ledge.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Dec 1, 2008, 5:00 PM
Post #106 of 228
(8511 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
notapplicable wrote: What about this guy, would you belay off that? 
The weirdest thing! I was walking through the woods yesterday. Lots of trees in the woods, don't you know?
Anyway, I came across this dude, anchored to a tree, mumbling something about FINALLY finding a worthy anchor!
Turned out to be Big Wallers haha. Never mind when a tree is the sole anchor... how about the tree being the sole CLIMB TOO???
Madness!
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Dec 1, 2008, 5:00 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Dec 1, 2008, 5:10 PM
Post #107 of 228
(8500 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
didn't want to ascend back up and retie?
|
|
|
|
|
notapplicable
Dec 1, 2008, 5:30 PM
Post #109 of 228
(8481 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
|
sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: See my avatar. After finishing a lead I untied and lowered the rope to pull up slings for a top rope but when I got the gear I just tied the rope to my harness with a double over hand so I wouldnt loose the rope. I planed to re-tie it before I lowered but forgot and it came loose something like 25 ft. from the ground while I was cleaning a hex. Thats about as dumb as it gets I'd say.  Luckily all I got was a broken wrist. You rock climb? I thought that was a rollerblading injury?
It seems no one here wants to talk to someone who doesn't engage in the self important act of prancing up rock faces so I started to pretend. I just wanted to fit in.
Thanks for outing me just as I was starting to make friends...thanks alot.
|
|
|
|
|
notapplicable
Dec 1, 2008, 5:32 PM
Post #110 of 228
(8477 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
|
dingus wrote: Oh shit I could NEVER narrow down the selection to ONE - its a crowded field with lots of viable contenders. DMT
I just picked the one that caused me the most physical pain. Didn't want to be up all night writing post after post after post...
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Dec 1, 2008, 5:38 PM
Post #111 of 228
(8470 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
notapplicable wrote: dingus wrote: Oh shit I could NEVER narrow down the selection to ONE - its a crowded field with lots of viable contenders. DMT I just picked the one that caused me the most physical pain. Didn't want to be up all night writing post after post after post...
|
|
|
|
|
0x2102
Dec 1, 2008, 5:45 PM
Post #112 of 228
(8451 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 115
|
On a whim, my partner and I stopped by Stone Mt. NC on the way back from climbing at Looking Glass to run up a pitch or two of slab. We picked something mellow looking, a slab with a crack for pro to a large but easy roof, and I set off on lead with whatever gear happened to be clipped to my harness from the last route at Looking Glass. When my partner suggested I take some runners I told him to F off and get on belay (still not sure why I was so surly) and I started cruising up the slab, placed a cam before the roof, pulled the roof and ran it out about 25 feet up a left trending seam/rail kind of feature, at which point I became unable to move due to rope drag. I was also unable to downclimb the slab roof so I placed a seriously marginal #5 stopper and proceeded to belay my partner up (with a strict "No falls!" warning) using the stopper and a crappy pseudo-handjam as the belay anchor. I doubt if I could have held even bodyweight from my stance. He climbed up to the roof and removed the cam, so that there was absolutely nothing between us and the ground save my handjam and pathetic #5 placement, then proceeded to nearly fall while turning the roof. He then led the last 50 feet or so of blank slab to the ledge and brought me up. It's been a long time since that happened and I still laugh at my idiocy and thank the gods that my buddy was able to climb through to the ledge and not fall.
|
|
|
|
|
notapplicable
Dec 1, 2008, 5:59 PM
Post #113 of 228
(8442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
|
sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: dingus wrote: Oh shit I could NEVER narrow down the selection to ONE - its a crowded field with lots of viable contenders. DMT I just picked the one that caused me the most physical pain. Didn't want to be up all night writing post after post after post... heh, NA duz dumb things.
I blame my father really. When I was 2 1/2 years old he was carrying me down a set of icy steps out side my great aunts house, slipped and dropped my square on my head.
I'm sure the severe concussion, hours of unconsiousness, projectile vomiting, learned behavior memory loss and a funny shaped head from all the swelling, played some formative role in my development (or lack there of).
True story.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Dec 1, 2008, 6:06 PM
Post #114 of 228
(8427 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
notapplicable wrote: True story.
|
|
|
|
|
TJGoSurf
Dec 1, 2008, 9:38 PM
Post #115 of 228
(8367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 17, 2008
Posts: 280
|
After reading all this I feel so smart. The only dumb things I can think of is leading a route a few grades above my level, and only using a metilious personal anchor to clean a route. Nothing happened but scared me.
0x2102 wrote: On a whim, my partner and I stopped by Stone Mt. NC on the way back from climbing at Looking Glass to run up a pitch or two of slab. We picked something mellow looking, a slab with a crack for pro to a large but easy roof, and I set off on lead with whatever gear happened to be clipped to my harness from the last route at Looking Glass. When my partner suggested I take some runners I told him to F off and get on belay (still not sure why I was so surly) and I started cruising up the slab, placed a cam before the roof, pulled the roof and ran it out about 25 feet up a left trending seam/rail kind of feature, at which point I became unable to move due to rope drag. I was also unable to downclimb the slab roof so I placed a seriously marginal #5 stopper and proceeded to belay my partner up (with a strict "No falls!" warning) using the stopper and a crappy pseudo-handjam as the belay anchor. I doubt if I could have held even bodyweight from my stance. He climbed up to the roof and removed the cam, so that there was absolutely nothing between us and the ground save my handjam and pathetic #5 placement, then proceeded to nearly fall while turning the roof. He then led the last 50 feet or so of blank slab to the ledge and brought me up. It's been a long time since that happened and I still laugh at my idiocy and thank the gods that my buddy was able to climb through to the ledge and not fall.
What route was this?
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Dec 1, 2008, 9:54 PM
Post #116 of 228
(8351 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
camhead wrote: not sure if it was dumb, as I had no other option, but here is the scariest thing I've done. Was bailing off a climb, making a probably 62m rap with two 60m ropes: one static and one dynamic. Got down to about five feet above my anchors when I realized that my static rope would not allow me to reach the anchors. The knot joining the two ropes was on the dynamic side; otherwise I could have let a bit of that side slip through and made it down, but trust me, i was stuck. So, I untied the knot in the static line, let it slip through my ATC, and took a slow fall, belayed only by the weight of the rope and drag through the above anchors, clipping the lower anchors with my daisy as I fell by. scared me, but I am not sure what else I could have done.
I have this mental pic of you sliding slowly -- and yet far too quickly, if you know what I mean -- down to an anchor with your brake in one hand and an open biner in the other, ready to clip before it gets out of reach. One shot... maybe two... Or, did you grab the anchor first, then clip in to it?
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 1, 2008, 11:10 PM
Post #117 of 228
(8323 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
j_ung wrote: camhead wrote: not sure if it was dumb, as I had no other option, but here is the scariest thing I've done. Was bailing off a climb, making a probably 62m rap with two 60m ropes: one static and one dynamic. Got down to about five feet above my anchors when I realized that my static rope would not allow me to reach the anchors. The knot joining the two ropes was on the dynamic side; otherwise I could have let a bit of that side slip through and made it down, but trust me, i was stuck. So, I untied the knot in the static line, let it slip through my ATC, and took a slow fall, belayed only by the weight of the rope and drag through the above anchors, clipping the lower anchors with my daisy as I fell by. scared me, but I am not sure what else I could have done. I have this mental pic of you sliding slowly -- and yet far too quickly, if you know what I mean -- down to an anchor with your brake in one hand and an open biner in the other, ready to clip before it gets out of reach. One shot... maybe two... Or, did you grab the anchor first, then clip in to it?
I grabbed the anchor first. It was not quite as Vertical Limit as it sounds, there was a small ledge below the anchor, and it was less than vertical. However, it definitely would have been smarter to just prussik back up to the top. I was pissed off and it was getting late, though.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Dec 1, 2008, 11:17 PM
Post #118 of 228
(8321 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
camhead wrote: j_ung wrote: camhead wrote: not sure if it was dumb, as I had no other option, but here is the scariest thing I've done. Was bailing off a climb, making a probably 62m rap with two 60m ropes: one static and one dynamic. Got down to about five feet above my anchors when I realized that my static rope would not allow me to reach the anchors. The knot joining the two ropes was on the dynamic side; otherwise I could have let a bit of that side slip through and made it down, but trust me, i was stuck. So, I untied the knot in the static line, let it slip through my ATC, and took a slow fall, belayed only by the weight of the rope and drag through the above anchors, clipping the lower anchors with my daisy as I fell by. scared me, but I am not sure what else I could have done. I have this mental pic of you sliding slowly -- and yet far too quickly, if you know what I mean -- down to an anchor with your brake in one hand and an open biner in the other, ready to clip before it gets out of reach. One shot... maybe two... Or, did you grab the anchor first, then clip in to it? I grabbed the anchor first. It was not quite as Vertical Limit as it sounds, there was a small ledge below the anchor, and it was less than vertical. However, it definitely would have been smarter to just prussik back up to the top. I was pissed off and it was getting late, though.
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Dec 1, 2008, 11:32 PM
Post #119 of 228
(8308 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
camhead wrote: not sure if it was dumb, as I had no other option, but here is the scariest thing I've done. Was bailing off a climb, making a probably 62m rap with two 60m ropes: one static and one dynamic. Got down to about five feet above my anchors when I realized that my static rope would not allow me to reach the anchors. The knot joining the two ropes was on the dynamic side; otherwise I could have let a bit of that side slip through and made it down, but trust me, i was stuck. So, I untied the knot in the static line, let it slip through my ATC, and took a slow fall, belayed only by the weight of the rope and drag through the above anchors, clipping the lower anchors with my daisy as I fell by. scared me, but I am not sure what else I could have done.
I think I let the rope go through the devise and held onto both sides of the rope as I reached down and clipped in.
|
|
|
|
|
rockie
Dec 1, 2008, 11:37 PM
Post #120 of 228
(8306 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2007
Posts: 1130
|
notapplicable wrote: sungam wrote: heh, NA duz dumb things. I blame my father really. When I was 2 1/2 years old he was carrying me down a set of icy steps out side my great aunts house, slipped and dropped my square on my head. I'm sure the severe concussion, hours of unconsiousness, projectile vomiting, learned behavior memory loss and a funny shaped head from all the swelling, played some formative role in my development (or lack there of). True story.
Reminds me when I was around 5 yrs old. Something on top of the wardrobe I wanted in my room. Climbed up to get it and the whole thing fell. Was trapped between that and my bed, luckily the bed was where it was or I'd have been squashed.
Stayed there as no one heard me calling.
Sometime later, my brother came up to tell me, "your dinners on the t' abel, Whatyou doing under there?!"
Me: "I'm stuck, it fell"
A slap and a ticking off later from Mother.
|
|
|
|
|
rockie
Dec 1, 2008, 11:45 PM
Post #121 of 228
(8299 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2007
Posts: 1130
|
Somewhere South of Bristol during my first year of climbing. Heading to a climbing area, when my climbing partner noticed another climb he had wanted to do before but never got round to doing. Limestone, and it looked pretty easy enough from the road at least, like steps going up the route. But wrong, once on it I found how hard it actually was, and the lead climber didn't hear me yelling up that I can't do this! No choice then, this seemed to happen a few times where I had little choice but to climb it anyway.
Nearer the top, there was nothing to hold onto or grip onto, and still he couldn't hear me yelling I can't get up this thing. The only thing I had was the rope, so that was what I climbed to get up, and I had the Elvis Presley legs too plus a bit more, I was shaking all over. I like that term, have to remember that one next time I or anyone I climb with gets the shaky legs climbing.
Didn't want to climb for a little while after reaching the top, until my nerves calmed down again.
When I got home and told the bf, also a climber, started laughing and asked, "do you want to know why that was so hard?"
Of course I did. He said because there was hardly any protection on it.
Me = You're telling me! 
|
|
|
|
|
altelis
Dec 2, 2008, 1:39 AM
Post #122 of 228
(8264 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
|
^^^^ wtf?
i have no idea what that was
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Dec 2, 2008, 2:02 AM
Post #123 of 228
(8254 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
ok i'll add one more to my shame form before, i took a 25 footer following once...and it was a shamefully low grade at that... poor route finding skills will do that. hit a high angle slab and only bruised my ego. i should have down climbed or tried to do something else, but it was early in my climbing career and all i could think was oh s*^t i'm stuck shaking like a leaf, oh well, hope that cam holds...jump
traverse+slack+stupidity=whip
(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Dec 2, 2008, 2:04 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
ajstotts
Dec 2, 2008, 4:35 AM
Post #124 of 228
(8210 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2008
Posts: 2
|
1st top rope ever. Top roped through 2 rap hangars, then went up to look at it again.
Nope 2 bolt hangars no biners. That was dumb.
|
|
|
|
|
nfowler50
Dec 2, 2008, 5:05 AM
Post #125 of 228
(8537 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2008
Posts: 22
|
When I wanted to get into climbing i bought a dynamic rope. There weren't any crags very close but I wanted to use it. So that night my friend and i decided to repel off this water tower. We climbed to the top and tossed one end of the rope over the edge. We tied the other end to a steel bar.
What happened next was me just being stupid... real stupid.
I clipped my ATC into the rope with a LOT of slack left out. I stupidly proceeded to climb over the railing.. without taking out the slack. I let go of the rail with one hand to hold the braking end of the rope and slipped.... my first whip! haha!
I had so much speed going down that rope if I hadn't had a gardeners glove to hold the rope with, I probably would have been screwed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
