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majid_sabet
Dec 2, 2008, 6:26 AM
Post #126 of 228
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This should go to the top of this thread.
I planned to climb a wall and one day before me and my partner go on the wall, partner chickened out and I was left abandoned on my own. In search for plan B, my partner informed me that two other climbers from our gym were going to do the same wall so I asked If I could joint them on the wall. This was going to be my first time climbing with these guys and I had no idea about their performance on the real rock until that day but I knew a year earlier, they did the same wall so I was confident that things will go smooth. we met on a weekend and began climbing the wall. After we finished 13+ pitches of trad, we began descending from the other side of the rock which required 9 pitches of full 60 meter rap . To keep things safe and to make sure the other two least experienced partner do not fuc*up while rapping, I choose to be the last guy rapping, doing all the clean up at the rap stations.
Somehow one of the guy finds a bag on pitch 4 (200 meter above base) next to a tree while I was on pitch 5. By the time I noticed this extra bag, we were near pitch 1 and less than 30 minutes before the sunset .I was so stressed out by one of the partners that I completely ignored on to asked myself “why the bag was there” and by the time I could add up the numbers, we were near the base.
Once we reached the floor it was getting dark. One of the guys started walking down toward the trail to leave the bag at the junction and we started doing the clean up. As we were about to leave, I heard a voice yelling:
HEYYYYYY
ANY ONE OUT THERE?
YOU GUYS......
I looked up and I could barley see two bodies several hundred feet up on the wall right near one of the rap stations that we just passed by,
HEY HEY
DO YOU GUYS SEE A ROPE BAG DOWN THERE?
Is it there?
to be continued
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Adk
Dec 2, 2008, 3:53 PM
Post #127 of 228
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Critiqued a fellow climbers anchor to another friend and then listened for the fallout several months later.
Let's see...top belay two pitches combined, about 150',
with just two anchor pieces (with ample pro to place more as well as ample places for pro). One of which pieces were placed horribly in the same crack as the other which was not even placed with the direction of pull being though about.
Let's just say when I got there I fixed the mess as others were to follow still.
I'm a bit more careful as to when I critique a possible life saving anchor that is set up where I climb. Well...not really....
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dingus
Dec 2, 2008, 4:06 PM
Post #128 of 228
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majid_sabet wrote: I looked up and I could barley see two bodies several hundred feet up on the wall right near one of the rap stations that we just passed by, HEY HEY DO YOU GUYS SEE A ROPE BAG DOWN THERE? Is it there? to be continued
Holy shit batman! LOL!
DMT
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apeman_e
Dec 2, 2008, 9:25 PM
Post #129 of 228
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majid so you're the one who stole my rope bag!
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gunkiemike
Dec 2, 2008, 10:04 PM
Post #130 of 228
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Dear Penthouse, one time in college, me and my buddy were on a road trip. Oh wait, wrong story.
This may or may not be the dumbest thing I've ever done, but it's the one that never fails to bring a smile to my face. It was my first full year of climbing. I'd done a fair amount of TR'ing, and a few days of cragging 1-3 pitch routes. I read everything there was about gear placements, and, as the normal second on the rope, had become quite good at cleaning gear. It was my role in our little group. Dave or Frank leads; I clean the pitch. I took great pride in my gear-removing skills.
Then one day late in the season we have a bigger group headed out for our longest route yet. Due to the particular combination of people and gear we had, it was decided that we'd climb as two teams of two, and the first team would leave their gear in for the second team (said gear to be returned to the first leader at each belay. Yea, they'd have to wait for us to come up behind them. No problem as the pitches were short.) Someone suggested I lead the second rope; what better way for me to sample leading than to lead through the pre-placed gear?! So we tie in accordingly, my buddy puts me on belay at the base of the first pitch. Just before I take off, I ask him, "You want me to clean it as I go?" The look he gave me was priceless.
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Factor2
Dec 2, 2008, 10:22 PM
Post #131 of 228
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Well, this isn't so much dumb as it is out of necessity, but probably one of the more dangerous situations I've been in.
My Partner and i were on the fourth pitch of a route. I was nearing the end of the rope, and was about 40' from my last piece on 5.9/10 ground, and out of earshot of my belayer. I looked and looked but could not for the life of me (almost literally) find a suitable anchor spot. Eventually off the left i saw a little divot in which i could slot a flaring stopper. I placed this marginal piece, slung myself to it, found a hold for one hand, and called that my anchor. The scariest part was when there was no pro left between my partner and I, just that one stopper and my hold.
(This post was edited by Factor2 on Dec 2, 2008, 10:22 PM)
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majid_sabet
Dec 2, 2008, 10:53 PM
Post #132 of 228
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Part II
Anyway, we found out that the two climbers on the wall dropped one of their cams while ascending and decided to recover it on the way down. Once they reached #4 rap station , they dropped the rope bag next to a tree but carried the rest of trad gear to go and look for the cam.
Obviously the two in my team were no better than the other two on the wall cause the year earlier, both guys in my team spend the night on the same wall when they forgot to carry headlamp but beside all the CF that was circling over my head, I had a bigger problem some 200 meter above me.
After talking little more to the guys on the wall, they said they had another 50 meter rope but were not sure about the rap stations. As I was rapping, I did recall a few rap rings on the bushes in between the chain links therefore, these guys gave us ok to walk away leaving the rope bag on the base.
Lesson learned;
1- Do not climb or partner up with people you do not know
2- Climbers (partners) may show their other faces which may include physiological problems during SOL situations so be ready to deal with it.
3- Do not assume anything and things may not always be black or white. There is always a reasons for things been there but it is not up to you to come up with solutions.
4- If you see something that does not belong to you, especially if something in a significant size ended up in your path, leave the fuc*ing thing alone. There is defiantly a reason behind it.
5- Be responsible and get ready to deal with SOL situations even if you have to climb back up in dark to undo your fuc*up.
6- Team leader or the most experienced climber is always in charge even if someone else in your team fuc*s up. In this case I failed and ignored to ask about the bag when I knew about it, I still failed to take the bag and forgot to leave it on the #1 Rap station 1.Not if that rope bag was going to change anything but, what if the guys on the wall could not locate the last natural anchor and need to rap a full 50 meter on double rope? I surely did not want them to spend the night in cold or jeopardize their own lives down climbing the face.
7- There is always an angle that save your as* .in this case, we were lucky that we did not have to climb back to deliver a rope bag.
MS
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ski.ninja
Dec 2, 2008, 11:14 PM
Post #133 of 228
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First time I rigged a 'biner brake for rappel I had it all set up on the rope, prusik hooked into my leg loop, then proceeded to start towards the edge WITHOUT CONNECTING THE BRAKE ONTO MY HARNESS. Luckily, I'd also forgotten to unclip my daisy before I went for the edge and managed to catch my mistake before anything bad happened.
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sungam
Dec 2, 2008, 11:20 PM
Post #134 of 228
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ski.ninja wrote: First time I rigged a 'biner brake for rappel I had it all set up on the rope, prusik hooked into my leg loop, then proceeded to start towards the edge WITHOUT CONNECTING THE BRAKE ONTO MY HARNESS. Luckily, I'd also forgotten to unclip my daisy before I went for the edge and managed to catch my mistake before anything bad happened.
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ski.ninja
Dec 3, 2008, 12:01 AM
Post #135 of 228
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sungam wrote: ski.ninja wrote: First time I rigged a 'biner brake for rappel I had it all set up on the rope, prusik hooked into my leg loop, then proceeded to start towards the edge WITHOUT CONNECTING THE BRAKE ONTO MY HARNESS. Luckily, I'd also forgotten to unclip my daisy before I went for the edge and managed to catch my mistake before anything bad happened. Shit dude, you got lucky!
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dingus
Dec 3, 2008, 12:02 AM
Post #136 of 228
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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majid_sabet wrote: Lesson learned; 1- Do not climb or partner up with people you do not know 2- Climbers (partners) may show their other faces which may include physiological problems during SOL situations so be ready to deal with it. 3- Do not assume anything and things may not always be black or white. There is always a reasons for things been there but it is not up to you to come up with solutions. 4- If you see something that does not belong to you, especially if something in a significant size ended up in your path, leave the fuc*ing thing alone. There is defiantly a reason behind it. 5- Be responsible and get ready to deal with SOL situations even if you have to climb back up in dark to undo your fuc*up. 6- Team leader or the most experienced climber is always in charge even if someone else in your team fuc*s up. In this case I failed and ignored to ask about the bag when I knew about it, I still failed to take the bag and forgot to leave it on the #1 Rap station 1.Not if that rope bag was going to change anything but, what if the guys on the wall could not locate the last natural anchor and need to rap a full 50 meter on double rope? I surely did not want them to spend the night in cold or jeopardize their own lives down climbing the face. 7- There is always an angle that save your as* .in this case, we were lucky that we did not have to climb back to deliver a rope bag. MS
You learnt ALL THAT from stealing a rope? Jeez, imagine how many lessons you could learn if you stole a WHOLE RACK lol!
DMT
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zeth01
Dec 4, 2008, 4:29 AM
Post #137 of 228
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quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen.
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altelis
Dec 4, 2008, 4:48 AM
Post #138 of 228
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zeth01 wrote: quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen.
um, i believe this belongs in the "false humility but really spraying" thread 
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sungam
Dec 4, 2008, 5:15 AM
Post #139 of 228
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altelis wrote: zeth01 wrote: quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen. um, i believe this belongs in the "false humility but really spraying" thread
No offense to the lad, but that was fucking blatant.
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zeth01
Dec 4, 2008, 6:45 AM
Post #140 of 228
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Whatever!
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zeth01
Dec 4, 2008, 6:48 AM
Post #141 of 228
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i'm glad that you all can put someone else down to make yourselves feel better. I was simply making a point. You all should watch the language and stop complaining about what you don't know.
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zeth01
Dec 4, 2008, 7:47 AM
Post #143 of 228
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yeah yeah yeah either way it's still ridiculous
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rockie
Dec 4, 2008, 8:23 AM
Post #144 of 228
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zeth01 wrote: yeah yeah yeah either way it's still ridiculous
Heh!
By the way, what's it like being a bum?
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dingus
Dec 4, 2008, 1:32 PM
Post #145 of 228
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zeth01 wrote: i'm glad that you all can put someone else down to make yourselves feel better.
Here I am trying to work a thread and you're whining and distracting me. Merde!
DMT
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altelis
Dec 4, 2008, 2:11 PM
Post #146 of 228
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notapplicable wrote: zeth01 wrote: i'm glad that you all can put someone else down to make yourselves feel better. I was simply making a point. You all should watch the language and stop complaining about what you don't know. Whipe your tears darlin, its all in good fun. 
Say "cool whip" again.
Why?
Just say it. "Cool Whip"
Cool Whhhip
PS- man did i come close to cheesetitting that box o' tissues!
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Valarc
Dec 4, 2008, 2:18 PM
Post #147 of 228
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notapplicable wrote: zeth01 wrote: i'm glad that you all can put someone else down to make yourselves feel better. I was simply making a point. You all should watch the language and stop complaining about what you don't know. Whipe your tears darlin, its all in good fun.
I suggest that Zeth needs to change his shampoo. I recommend this fine product:
(This post was edited by Valarc on Dec 4, 2008, 2:19 PM)
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camhead
Dec 4, 2008, 2:22 PM
Post #148 of 228
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sungam wrote: altelis wrote: zeth01 wrote: quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen. um, i believe this belongs in the "false humility but really spraying" thread yup. No offense to the lad, but that was fucking blatant.
How is that spraying? Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special.
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dingus
Dec 4, 2008, 2:25 PM
Post #149 of 228
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camhead wrote: Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special.
Working any route is nothing special.
DMT
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zeth01
Dec 4, 2008, 3:59 PM
Post #150 of 228
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exactly
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