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furbucket
Dec 30, 2008, 10:26 PM
Post #176 of 228
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Back on topic again:
I was cleaning the top of the route and I had girth hitched my daisy to my gear loop. I leaned back before I untied my harness and thought, "Oh, that feels different. Oh well, whatever." Then I realized that I f'ed up before I untied thankfully. I was really tired that day!
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zeke_sf
Dec 31, 2008, 3:07 AM
Post #177 of 228
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furbucket wrote: Back on topic again: I was cleaning the top of the route and I had girth hitched my daisy to my gear loop. I leaned back before I untied my harness and thought, "Oh, that feels different. Oh well, whatever." Then I realized that I f'ed up before I untied thankfully. I was really tired that day!
Scary stuff. You sound like a metolius safety harness kinda guy.
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jt512
Dec 31, 2008, 4:40 AM
Post #178 of 228
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curt wrote: apeman_e wrote: ...So come clean!- what is the dumbest thing you've ever done rock climbing? Caved in to peer pressure and went sport climbing.  Curt
Do I get credit for that?
Jay
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reno
Dec 31, 2008, 4:58 AM
Post #179 of 228
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jt512 wrote: curt wrote: apeman_e wrote: ...So come clean!- what is the dumbest thing you've ever done rock climbing? Caved in to peer pressure and went sport climbing. Curt Do I get credit for that?
Only if I get credit for you plugging gear at Oak Creek Overlook, and claiming it was "fun."
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xArtx
Jan 11, 2009, 12:52 AM
Post #180 of 228
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Simple one,
Fell while seconding, grabbed the rope just above a quickdraw,
almost lost a finger to the quickdraw biner.
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matt4923
Jan 11, 2009, 5:57 AM
Post #181 of 228
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I take full responsibility for the stupidity and unawareness of the following.
I was teaching a friend from work how to climb. I chose a super easy top rope route for him to learn on. We climbed it a few times then I noticed some bolts off to the side of our anchor that continued higher. Thinking it would be cool to show him lead climbing I cleaned our anchor by removing the rope from the draws/chains, then walked over to the bolts that were close by and leading up higher.
See the stupidity???
I cleaned our top rope anchor and walked along the ridge to the newly found bolts. I felt a small tug from my belayer and FINALLY realized I was 50 feet up on a small ridge not clipped into anything nor was I anchored or protected anywhere along the climb! I quickly yelled, "LET GO OF THE ROPE AND TAKE ME OFF BELAY!" I quickly moved to the bolt and protected myself.
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climberslacker
Jan 11, 2009, 10:29 PM
Post #182 of 228
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So i was tradding with my little brother, and he talked me into leting him lead instrad of follow, he got to the crux of the climb and decided to come down. So i climbed up, got past his gear, got ready to set my own, and realized i had no cams that fit or any nuts or hexes that fit, i finally managed to get a peice in, then climged up to the top, i still yell at him :)
by the way, there is a #3 camalot that i dropped on Y-crack at lake dixon, if anyone finds it, and could you om me?
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deltav
Jan 12, 2009, 2:27 AM
Post #183 of 228
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Wrapped a tree to rappel a route and nearly rapped off the rope because one side was still 70+ft in the air. At the time I did know enough to tie a knot and didn't bother to check that both ends were on the ground. Needless to say, I never made that mistake again!
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bandidopeco
Jan 12, 2009, 3:00 AM
Post #184 of 228
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Posts: 257
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Culmination of many little mistakes, then one big enough to do my ankle in for so far 2 months.
My partner and I were climbing at the Technicolor wall in the Creek, and I did some big hands route, pretty nice. Since it was 120' I brought up our second rope and tied them together, leaving the knot on the pink rope side. Rapping down I left a directional in since my partner would TR and clipped the pink rope in.
at the bottom I noticed that the knot was between the anchor and directional, uh oh. Fortunately we still had enough rope for my partner to lead up to the directional, so she did that, made it to the top after some time, and had a rope running up to the anchor, down to me and back up to her. She was going to untie the EDK and re-thread the ropes, but I told her not to. Now pulling the rope up it got stuck in the first piece of gear, so I soloed up to remove it, which was safe enough, good big hands the whole way, but instead of downclimbing I decided to traverse left on iffy holds for no reason whatsoever.
Slipped, fell, landed feet hip face, ouch my ankle.
so now it's been since late October and hopefully I won't be so stupid again.
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curt
Jan 12, 2009, 6:02 AM
Post #185 of 228
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jt512 wrote: curt wrote: apeman_e wrote: ...So come clean!- what is the dumbest thing you've ever done rock climbing? Caved in to peer pressure and went sport climbing. Curt Do I get credit for that? Jay
I'll certainly give you partial credit.
Curt
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asellers98
Jan 16, 2009, 7:16 AM
Post #186 of 228
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I have to admit, last weekend at Reimers Ranch was my dumbest mistake climbing EVER! I took off my climbing shoes inbetween routes, and was walking around barefoot letting my feet breath. And to walk back to the rest of the group I was climbing with, I could either walk under people's belay, or walk a more dangerous way around a tree near a drop off. Well, I chose to be considerate, and ended up slipping. I nearly killed myself. By the grace of training hard lately, I was able to death pinch the tree root with one hand, three fingers.
If I had failed that last desperate throw, I would have been falling backwards on my back, landing on a fallen tree, then bouncing and hitting my head on a boulder. It was at the end of Dead Cats, by the purramatic kitty 6000 route.
Lesson learned, listen to your intuition. I kept telling myself I should be wearing shoes. I lost a nice sized chunk of skin on both feet for the error.
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Rudmin
Apr 1, 2009, 5:19 AM
Post #187 of 228
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After leading 2nd pitch of an easy 5 pitch sport, I take of my shoes and clip them to a sling I was anchored on. Instead of using the loop, I clipped over the whole thing. Of course I forgot about that and watched them slip off the end when I was moved the sling. They caught on a cactus at the start of the 1st pitch.
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jamincan
Apr 1, 2009, 7:00 PM
Post #188 of 228
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furbucket wrote: Back on topic again: I was cleaning the top of the route and I had girth hitched my daisy to my gear loop. I leaned back before I untied my harness and thought, "Oh, that feels different. Oh well, whatever." Then I realized that I f'ed up before I untied thankfully. I was really tired that day!
It seems that tying into gear loops is a relatively common mistake, but I don't understand how it happens. I always tie into, or girth hitch a daisy chain to the regular tie in points at the front of my harness. Tying into one of my gear loops would be significantly more awkward. How does this happen?
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irrational
Apr 2, 2009, 12:45 AM
Post #189 of 228
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Registered: Jul 20, 2008
Posts: 35
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So not the dumbest thing i've done but i think the dumbest thing i have witnessed in 13 years of climbing. While walking up to whites bluff @ lions head, we came across a group of climbers struggling up the 5.8 there (the rest of the crag is 11+ish). Something about there draws looked a bit odd as we got closer we found there draws were a chain of accessory biners. So we told them that they would break under body weight plus a feather and they fluffed us off so we turned around and went to halfway dump instead.
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subantz
Apr 2, 2009, 1:04 AM
Post #190 of 228
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I would say the dumbest thing I have done in order are
1: Bolting a crack
2:chipping holds
3: climbing with a static line
4: chopping a mixed line
5: starting shit on RC.com
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hafilax
Apr 2, 2009, 1:20 AM
Post #191 of 228
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Dropped a belay device
Dropped a nut tool
Forgot to clip the last piece before a long runout
Did all the leading in a party of 3 with 2 10.5mm ropes (the last time being a 6 pitch moonlight climb after leading 11 pitches that day)
Almost got a rope stuck by rappelling the wrong way around a buttress
Any other stupid things I've done I didn't realize at the time.
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mar_leclerc
Apr 2, 2009, 1:47 AM
Post #192 of 228
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 156
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Left an ice tool at a rap station
Dropped an ice screw
Got a cam stuck by bumping it with my knee when climbing past
Jumped off a boulder and hot hung up mid flight by a nut on a sling catching in a crack, ouch!
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chopperjohn
Apr 2, 2009, 11:41 PM
Post #194 of 228
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Posts: 87
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Climbing with a guy nicknamed "Fuck face".
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barkandbite
Apr 4, 2009, 7:21 AM
Post #195 of 228
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Registered: Feb 8, 2009
Posts: 42
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Tried pissing off a 500’+ dihedral.
At first I thought, boy that mist feels kinda’ good. Than I (we) realized…
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swoopee
Apr 5, 2009, 12:10 AM
Post #196 of 228
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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560
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Left my climbing shoes at the crag today and when I went back to get them, they were gone. I am planning to climb tomorrow so I guess that I'll have to go buy a new pair. That was just plain dumb.
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DETN8R
Apr 5, 2009, 6:00 PM
Post #197 of 228
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
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Since I havent been outdoor climbing yet I've only done a few stupid things at the gym. I tied in in correctly, completely under my harness on top part.(I didnt notice and my girlfriend didnt check me well enough) I fell off a route and swung into the rope going to my belayer and the carabiner holding my ATC clipped onto the rope. I should have had the gate screwed down.
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kylekienitz
Apr 5, 2009, 7:09 PM
Post #198 of 228
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Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 256
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Assuming that 5 pitches of 5.8 with a single rope rappel would go without a hitch and therefore only bring one rope.
Humbug Spires in Montana - My partner and I got a late start after a date the night before with an 18 pack of PBR. It was late June and a perfect day, I let my partner convince me that we didn't need to haul another rope four miles back to The Wedge. Halfway up pitch three it starts hailing, the temperature plummets and daylight is quickly waning. We are soaked, shaking cold, and forced to bail. PROBLEM: Oh shit KM, we only brought one rope. The pitch was definitely longer than 30m... oh shit.
I realized that day how crack systems lend themselves nicely to gushing torrents of surging water. We were SOAKED.
We slung a chockstone and I rappelled off of it, not knowing how far down the rope went, though I knew it didn't reach the belay anchor.
The ropes reached 2 feet past two manky, old, rusty, thin as hell 1/4" studs and clipped one yelling 'off rappel.' Scared out of my mind I tried to keep as much weight off of it as i could with a waterfall trying to push me off the rock.
My partner clipped the other, equally manky piece of sheet metal. I tested my bolt with body weight and after seeing little movement I RAPPELLED off of ONE decrepit bolt.
I prayed the whole way to the belay anchor and there was no doubt an 'amen' on my lips when I was able to clip something substantial. My partner made it down fine also.
That was the worst part. After that it was trivial stuff like: getting the rope stuck pulling it from the next rappel, barely making the last rappel to the ground, shaking so bad i couldn't take my shoes or harness off, hiking / running back in the dark, running into bears 1 mile from the car.
Too tired to set up the tent we said 'fuck the bears' and slept on pads in the parking lot.
I learned a lot from that experience. I think a lot about the choice to rappel from that bolt. It really was the only option, (i didn't want to equalize the two because of the fear of shock loading one bolt if the other pulled - if one bolt went I didn't want to pull KM off too. I really had no idea how much these bolts could take.)
From now on though I think about:
- always two ropes if on anything longer than 30m. especially on multi-pitch trad.
- be prepared for weather.
- Bear Spray!
- have a better understanding of the route (the third pitch of this was severely run out.)
- think about time and daylight!
- be prepared and think about the worst case scenario.
So, dumbest thing ever done climbing: drink too much PBR the night before.
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chilli
Apr 5, 2009, 10:09 PM
Post #199 of 228
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several years ago i was setting up for TR and, being about 10ft from the cliff's edge i figured "i don't need to clip in this far away from the edge" (those are famous last words). i started slinging a boulder for a USSR and couldn't quite reach to flip the rope over a corner, so i grabbed a flake on the boulder and stood on a little edge for some extra height...
next thing i know there was a loud crack as a microwave-sized chunk of the flake came off in my hand, sending both me and the flake tumbling toward the cliff. i stopped a couple feet from the precipice, the flake did not. i yelled "rock" with more fervor and terror than i ever have had to since. luckily no one was immediately below.
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i'm ALWAYS tied in now - even if i am "far enough away from the edge" and you won't see me yanking on a flake without a thorough check.
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in the years following i also carried my new found respect for my ability to make stupid fuck-ups with me; and whether building an anchor on lead or just for TR, i always remind myself, saying "don't screw this one up" (it's a little extra motivation to keep everyone safe)
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TJGoSurf
Apr 5, 2009, 10:14 PM
Post #200 of 228
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Registered: Jul 17, 2008
Posts: 280
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I tied into my leg loops once. I'm glad I'm so paranoid about coming down and didnt just leap off. I had only tied into my leg loops.
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