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bobbj22
Aug 4, 2009, 6:53 PM
Post #226 of 228
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Registered: Aug 13, 2007
Posts: 54
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Yeah it was at least a body length or two above me. Looking back I would've laughed too if I was at the bottom. I looked like a buffoon.
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 3, 2009, 3:32 PM
Post #227 of 228
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
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The other day I climbed a route that was my first-ever trad lead. I recall that when I first climbed it, I used the fixed rap anchor as my main anchor, then backed it up with a sling around a horn on a boulder. The rap anchor is and was bomber, but the boulder, while good-sized, was on down-sloping ledge and could've been dislodged with a good bit of force.
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cracklover
Sep 3, 2009, 4:45 PM
Post #228 of 228
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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This was back when I was first learning to aid climb. I had set a bottom anchor, led the pitch, set a top anchor, and lowered on the free strand. So far so good.
Then I made a really dumb mistake. I decided to ascend the free strand (I think I did this because I wanted to practice free-hanging jugging, and the wall overhung a good bit) and then clean the gear from the top down. Well I got about 2/3 of the way down, having to pull myself in further and further on the anchored end of the rope, when I pulled in as far as I could on an ascender, and still couldn't reach the wall to clean the next piece.
But I also couldn't release the ascender because of the tension pulling me in. I was stuck. Naturally, right then, the last of the day's sun died, and it became pitch black. Fortunately for me, I had some friends nearby who came and rescued me, there, dangling 10 feet from the ground, stuck on my two lines.
If they hadn't been there, I surely would have figured something out and gotten down safely, but without a headlamp, in the pitch black, it would have taken a good while.
Very embarrassing.
GO
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