I believe the fun factor is most important!But if I had to pick one of your choices with a gun at my head,I would say the grade.And that is because we all have unique styles,just like monkeys. So as long as you can hack the grade ,right on!Good climb.
Both are good for me, i am always striving to climb something harder, but at the same time their is a lot of satisfaction making a climb effortless that at one point in time would have been a challenge.
So we need clarification from Karmi as to what she meant in the OP!
Really? Perhaps because English is not my first language, but it seems very clear to me that "barely making it" means exactly that: to be able to make it, but not by a large margin. What you interpreted in your previous post - hanging, tension, falling, etc - is NOT making it (barely or otherwise).
Did the person who hung, pulled, dogged their way up, not make it to the top? She didn't clarify what she meant by "make it". You are putting arbitrary words in her mouth. Not so long ago, there was great pride in making it to the top, no matter what tactics were used.
Really?
If someone claims that she has made a 5.13c, do you REALLY need clarification to know if she has gotten to the top PULLING the rope or the pro?. And I'm well aware about the time when an ascent resting on the pro was considered a valid ascent, but that was long ago. And even then, pulling was considered A0 (or french-free, whatever you prefer). I thought that nowadays any climber would understand, in the provided context of 5.13a vs 5.13c, what the OP meant. But apparently some climbers need further clarification. I stand corrected.
Calm down there, sporto! I was under the impression that the 5.13 was merely an example of a larger question. Are we ONLY talking high-end sport climbing? In that case, I DON'T know what the fuck I'm talking about. I don't climb 5.13 sport. And obviously, you do, so carry on!
Btw, would you rather....Clean the floor of a public restroom with a toothbrush, then brush your teeth with it -OR- not wash your hands in any way for 3 months?
(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Feb 1, 2010, 10:39 PM)
I was under the impression that the 5.13 was merely an example of a larger question. Are we ONLY talking high-end sport climbing? In that case, I DON'T know what the fuck I'm talking about. I don't climb 5.13 sport. And obviously, you do, so carry on!
what?? 5.13?? me???
In reply to:
Btw, would you rather....Clean the floor of a public restroom with a toothbrush, then brush your teeth with it -OR- not wash your hands in any way for 3 months?
What????
You triple-lost me there... I admit I don't know what the fuck you're talking about either Anyways, we were digressing already.
So we need clarification from Karmi as to what she meant in the OP!
Really? Perhaps because English is not my first language, but it seems very clear to me that "barely making it" means exactly that: to be able to make it, but not by a large margin. What you interpreted in your previous post - hanging, tension, falling, etc - is NOT making it (barely or otherwise).
Did the person who hung, pulled, dogged their way up, not make it to the top? She didn't clarify what she meant by "make it". You are putting arbitrary words in her mouth. Not so long ago, there was great pride in making it to the top, no matter what tactics were used.
Really?
If someone claims that she has made a 5.13c, do you REALLY need clarification to know if she has gotten to the top PULLING the rope or the pro?. And I'm well aware about the time when an ascent resting on the pro was considered a valid ascent, but that was long ago. And even then, pulling was considered A0 (or french-free, whatever you prefer). I thought that nowadays any climber would understand, in the provided context of 5.13a vs 5.13c, what the OP meant. But apparently some climbers need further clarification. I stand corrected.
Calm down there, sporto! I was under the impression that the 5.13 was merely an example of a larger question. Are we ONLY talking high-end sport climbing? In that case, I DON'T know what the fuck I'm talking about. I don't climb 5.13 sport. And obviously, you do, so carry on!
Btw, would you rather....Clean the floor of a public restroom with a toothbrush, then brush your teeth with it -OR- not wash your hands in any way for 3 months?
The confusion is stemming from the OP's condescending tone in what just barely making it means.
She phrases it such that an unrehearsed or inefficient climb is somehow bad. I think she had her mind made up before she posed the question.
Maybe when she's been climbing longer she'll begin to realize how wonderful the rare onsight at your redpoint level really is.
So we need clarification from Karmi as to what she meant in the OP!
Really? Perhaps because English is not my first language, but it seems very clear to me that "barely making it" means exactly that: to be able to make it, but not by a large margin. What you interpreted in your previous post - hanging, tension, falling, etc - is NOT making it (barely or otherwise).
Did the person who hung, pulled, dogged their way up, not make it to the top? She didn't clarify what she meant by "make it". You are putting arbitrary words in her mouth. Not so long ago, there was great pride in making it to the top, no matter what tactics were used.
Really?
If someone claims that she has made a 5.13c, do you REALLY need clarification to know if she has gotten to the top PULLING the rope or the pro?. And I'm well aware about the time when an ascent resting on the pro was considered a valid ascent, but that was long ago. And even then, pulling was considered A0 (or french-free, whatever you prefer). I thought that nowadays any climber would understand, in the provided context of 5.13a vs 5.13c, what the OP meant. But apparently some climbers need further clarification. I stand corrected.
Calm down there, sporto! I was under the impression that the 5.13 was merely an example of a larger question. Are we ONLY talking high-end sport climbing? In that case, I DON'T know what the fuck I'm talking about. I don't climb 5.13 sport. And obviously, you do, so carry on!
Btw, would you rather....Clean the floor of a public restroom with a toothbrush, then brush your teeth with it -OR- not wash your hands in any way for 3 months?
Hey! Take that back. I have never even top roped 5.13 anything. I just know some people have delicate egos around here and I truly wanted honest answers. And my answer is both, btw...depends on the day! But I would be proud to do either. And I've been climbing for nine years. Is that long enough?
Going to a kind of unfamiliar crag, walking the base until you come to a really inspiring line, do the route old-school clean, leave no gear behind, get down without an epic...
Then search the guidebook and find out the name, and the grade is at least a full number grade higher than you thought it was!
And I've been climbing for nine years. Is that long enough?
Plenty. When was the last time you felt that you truly led beyond yourself though?
In reply to:
Hey! Take that back. I have never even top roped 5.13 anything. I just know some people have delicate egos around here and I truly wanted honest answers. And my answer is both, btw...depends on the day! But I would be proud to do either.
I wouldn't TR a 5.13 either. That shit needs to be worked on lead.
I voted for the just barely making it option even though I'm the guy who's only led 13a but I've got probably 2 dozen 12a and 12b trad onsights. At this point I'd rather send harder, I've been solid at a semi-hard grade long enough that style doesn't interest me much.
Going to a kind of unfamiliar crag, walking the base until you come to a really inspiring line, do the route old-school clean, leave no gear behind, get down without an epic...
Then search the guidebook and find out the name, and the grade is at least a full number grade higher than you thought it was!
To me, that is proficiency.
But I went with just barely making it for the EXACT same reasons!!
Forgot to add, 17 year old schoolgirl, just had 3 wine coolers.
I don't exactly get out much for climbing- I have a toddler. But I try to make one or two trips a year. I have one coming up that I have Big plans for meself for.
If you were to come up with a formula something like this:
If age + years-of-climbing-experience > threshold
Then probability of choosing style over grade approaches 1
The threshold might be gender specific. For males (me) I am proposing a threshold of ~100 (me again). I'd rather do something in control. Meaning there is a high probability that I could do it again.
Watch your mouth young man. There are ladies present. Namely a 17 year old <hoor> schoolgirl getting buzzed off wine coolers. Grades are cool too. Look at Sharma...grades AND style?! Swoon!!
you're right. i spoke too soon. i apologize. i like grades, but they go peeps heads(mostly in the gym though.) plus i'm bitter that i can't get a .11b i've been working for three months.
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