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thenose
Jun 5, 2010, 5:35 PM
Post #51 of 59
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Registered: Feb 20, 2009
Posts: 47
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curt
Jun 5, 2010, 6:02 PM
Post #52 of 59
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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thenose wrote: Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time...
Nice trip report. Since you have now established that spotting alone provides an adequate safety margin, I suggest you dispense with the gear and ropes altogether on your next attempt.
Curt
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acorneau
Jun 5, 2010, 6:33 PM
Post #53 of 59
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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jeremy11 wrote: I'm surprised you didn't pass a bolted belay station after 80 meters of climbing, if you did, it would have been wise to clip it.
Perhaps, but don't clip it using a PAS because it can't take fall-factor 265.97. A Chain Reactor might be close, and a Purcell Prusik would probably be better.
Best not to chance it and just use a clove hitch.
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irregularpanda
Jun 5, 2010, 6:40 PM
Post #54 of 59
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
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thenose wrote: moose_droppings wrote: thenose wrote: a-e-jones wrote: no defenitly a troll uh no. You just couldn't let a year old troll die?  no, no one has answered my question yet. i know there are pro options up there somewhere!
Black Alien bro.
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irregularpanda
Jun 5, 2010, 9:27 PM
Post #57 of 59
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
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YES! When climbing with 3: Don't put your partner on belay from above, wait until after the dyno and then put them on belay from below!
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crjanow
Jun 5, 2010, 11:41 PM
Post #58 of 59
(2026 views)
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Registered: Dec 18, 2008
Posts: 69
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In reply to: thenose wrote: Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time. So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw. same thing happend to me except i was hip belaying and the impact tore my thong off and left me hanging there 2500 foot up naked and no rope. luckily i was able to downclimb back to the ground. 
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Gmburns2000
Jun 6, 2010, 12:12 AM
Post #59 of 59
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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irregularpanda wrote: rangerrob wrote: What movie was that scenario taken from? Vertical Limit, opening scene. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFaJt62cEEo See if you can find the 700 mistakes that real climbers wouldn't do.
well, for one, I wouldn't have landed on my back like that.
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