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alpinestylist
Jun 18, 2003, 4:17 PM
Post #126 of 209
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why aren't all the boyz schmacking en route on remote big walls?
Don't they have quokka watching them?
Where is BURT...I'm sure he could tell us a SERIOUS answer.
I don't take a phone, but I do have a 4 inch bong in my remote wall kit.
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kevlar
Jun 18, 2003, 4:28 PM
Post #127 of 209
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Registered: Jun 5, 2002
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DING>>>>>>
I wanna see the girls walking the perimeter of the ring with the sign telling us what round we are in....wooooohoooooo
rock um sock um
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brutusofwyde
Jun 18, 2003, 11:56 PM
Post #128 of 209
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In reply to: I think it all boils down to effort.....It takes alot of time and effort just to get to Baffin. Or even somewhere closer, like tehpite(sp?) dome in Seqouia. Most of us might think about it but don't want to go through the months of planning and the expense to go too these places. Which makes me respect the people that do that much more! josh
Actually, I'm considering heading into Tehipite next month. On a recon. Tehipite doesn't take months of planning. Nor does Castle Rock Spire, South Face Lone Pine Peak, or many other of the huge backcountry walls in the Sierra. Very little expense, either, unless you're risking stashing gear, hiring a pack mule, or need boat access.
And there are lots of folks out there doing these things: E.C., Craft, Milktoast, Nettle, Smrz, Thau, Brennan, Harrington, Leversee, and quite a few other folks. A quick perusal through the Fiddler/Moynier guide, Secor or even AAJ lets you know that there is plenty going on in the outback. And most of those folks aren't even talking or publishing about their favorite, "secret" areas.
All these things take is just doing it. Just showing up and doing it. Effort, yes. Spending 7-14 days humping gear, hammering, hauling, drilling, scraping, humping gear, cleaning horrendously loose rock, brush and ant infested cracks; is a lot of work. For most folks the work isn't worth the reward. The ones who find the reward in that sort of thing are the ones that are out there doing it. Over and over and over again.
Brutus
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philbox
Moderator
Jun 19, 2003, 12:55 AM
Post #129 of 209
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
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I`ve done one remote wall in the jungles of northern New South Wales. I`d like to do another up in the wilds of Papua New Guinea. It`s called the Hindenberg Wall, it runs for about 50 kilometres and is up to 900 metres high. All limestone and in places pretty much overhung for the entire height. The only way in is via a helicopter or a three week jungle trek. From what I can make out this is a virgin wall mainly due to how remote it is.
...Phil...
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flamer
Jun 19, 2003, 3:19 AM
Post #130 of 209
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In reply to: In reply to: I think it all boils down to effort.....It takes alot of time and effort just to get to Baffin. Or even somewhere closer, like tehpite(sp?) dome in Seqouia. Most of us might think about it but don't want to go through the months of planning and the expense to go too these places. Which makes me respect the people that do that much more! josh Actually, I'm considering heading into Tehipite next month. On a recon. Tehipite doesn't take months of planning. Nor does Castle Rock Spire, South Face Lone Pine Peak, or many other of the huge backcountry walls in the Sierra. Very little expense, either, unless you're risking stashing gear, hiring a pack mule, or need boat access. And there are lots of folks out there doing these things: E.C., Craft, Milktoast, Nettle, Smrz, Thau, Brennan, Harrington, Leversee, and quite a few other folks. A quick perusal through the Fiddler/Moynier guide, Secor or even AAJ lets you know that there is plenty going on in the outback. And most of those folks aren't even talking or publishing about their favorite, "secret" areas. All these things take is just doing it. Just showing up and doing it. Effort, yes. Spending 7-14 days humping gear, hammering, hauling, drilling, scraping, humping gear, cleaning horrendously loose rock, brush and ant infested cracks; is a lot of work. For most folks the work isn't worth the reward. The ones who find the reward in that sort of thing are the ones that are out there doing it. Over and over and over again. Brutus
I agree with you whole heartily! I was primarily talking about Place's like Baffin and pakistan when I was talking about months of effort. I think you are right when you say" for most folks the work isn't worth the reward".
In fact , and as I said before, I have tremendous respect for the folks who do put forth this effort. And It's obvious that you folks are out there, but the Majority will always stick to the big rock by the road...
Doesn't it always seem like the minority that has the most fun?
josh
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climbsomething
Jun 19, 2003, 3:45 AM
Post #131 of 209
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In reply to: DING>>>>>> I wanna see the girls walking the perimeter of the ring with the sign telling us what round we are in....wooooohoooooo rock um sock um
I also think now would be a good time for apollodorus' creepy kung-fu baby animation...
8)
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flamer
Jun 19, 2003, 4:01 AM
Post #132 of 209
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HOLY SH*T!! I laugh so hard every time I see that kung-fu baby of apollo"s!!
Sorry kids I'm done with Wonder....
Now I want to hear more about The remote walls some of you have done...Brutus would you share a story or 2? Having read some of dingus's stuff I'd like to hear more....
Maybe a different thread is in order?
josh- who is still laughing at himself...
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rrrADAM
Jun 19, 2003, 3:50 PM
Post #134 of 209
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Hee Yah !!! I love that .gif also Tom.
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kevlar
Jun 19, 2003, 4:17 PM
Post #135 of 209
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Registered: Jun 5, 2002
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WIOW.......
That is what appollodorus...looked like when I woke him up sleeping in the back of his gas smelling car...he pulled open the door an did the exact moves...till he got some fresh air... :shock:
Tom you rock ... enjoy...an get a new gas can... :(
rock on
John
ps...climbsomething....ty for the great laugh...but nothing beats seeing you an the Dr. by the bear boxes...that is a sight I will never forget...just joking... :shock:
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climbingcowboy
Jun 19, 2003, 6:56 PM
Post #136 of 209
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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Well back to the topic since I'm no where near a good enough climber to enter this thrashing debate,
I bailed off my first attempt at a bigwall route but should be back later this year to make up for it. Also whatched these guys do the Reticent wall through this climbers scope in the meadow. It was so cool to watch them do the A5 pitch it was hook mpve after hook move, above a ledge, HOLY FREAKIN S_IT that was bad arse. I got to meet Natec and Crap and there friends Nate and Shera, cool people, also met Pete, and of course Ed (up2top) my partner really cool guy and safe. Hopfully I'll get to meet more of ya later on this year.
Late Geoff
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dsafanda
Jun 19, 2003, 7:23 PM
Post #137 of 209
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
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Was sorting gear in ElCap Meadow yesterday after getting off of LT. A couple was sitting behind us with a large telescope. A overheard them say "oh look...it looks like he's broken down is ledge and has started moving." I thought this was strange because it was 12:30 pm. Who on earth is just starting their day on ElCap? They offered a peek through thier lens. What do I see? High on Lost in America was a lone climber and Canadian flag portaledge swinging in the wind. ;)
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flamer
Jun 19, 2003, 7:37 PM
Post #138 of 209
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Hey cowboy,
What route did you try?
Don't sweat bailing, just chalk it up to experience! You'll get it next time!
josh
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climbingcowboy
Jun 20, 2003, 3:36 AM
Post #139 of 209
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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we tried the Prow, many factors caused us to bail, we didnt get started till like 2:30 due to a party ahead of us wich put us a day behind so we had to walk back out to move our campsite DOH!!, and among otherr things the term no sac comes to mind. I'm not sweating it to much though I'm going to go back and knock it out later this year if all goes right and i can pick up a ledge. I need to work on getting my hauling style dialed in and build up my arms for jugging.
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pbjosh
Jun 20, 2003, 4:58 AM
Post #140 of 209
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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climbingcowboy - don't need arms for jugging, honest. Work on getting your daisy length figured out and feet oriented into the correct stuff. On super steep put both aiders on the bottom ascender. On less steep stuff (like feet banging into wall or slabby even) one aider on either ascender. Seriously shouldn't be a workout if you figure out the spacing. Hauling on the other hand, that's a workout almost no matter what.
josh
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tenn_dawg
Jun 20, 2003, 5:08 AM
Post #141 of 209
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Registered: Mar 14, 2002
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Seriously, look into the frog system.
I've used it for jugging in caves forever, and I'll stand by it. It's not great for slabby jugging, but it works. Don't bother with buying a Croll, use whatever you have and rig it however it works. If you do it right, it's all in your legs and back, you're only balancing against the rope with your arms.
Travis
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climbingcowboy
Jun 20, 2003, 5:27 AM
Post #142 of 209
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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I dont why maybe I was just hurrring and using bad style, It was a lower angle jug and my arm was getting tired I was using the jug and gri technique. I've done it on overhanging stuff and never got tired but on the low angle i dont think i was using my leg enough.
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tenn_dawg
Jun 20, 2003, 5:38 AM
Post #143 of 209
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Well,
Unless you're cleaning, Jug and Grigri is a pretty inefficient system. I did a 180' freehanging jug in a cave once using that, and it was terrible. Try spinning the Jug around and grabbing the rope above it resting the heel of your hand on the top of the jug. Levering off the rope may help you out a little. Jugging systems are all about experimentation, adjusting, and finding out what works best for you though. Some people swear by some wierd systems (ever seen the ropewalker?)
Travis
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flamer
Jun 20, 2003, 4:03 PM
Post #144 of 209
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Cowboy,
The Prow is a great route! You were going to do it without a portaledge?? That would kind'a suck! There are place's to bivi without one but I can only think of one that would be real good...
Good luck next time...
josh
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alpinelynx
Jun 20, 2003, 9:56 PM
Post #145 of 209
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
Posts: 280
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wow, people still climb in the valley during the summer..? (way too hot for this wimp) Soloing remote walls ala Mike Libecki sounds nice to me, except the expense. I've seen a lot of rock in the high sierras lately that have my eyebrows perked. Even some well established single day super fun moderate free climbing on beautiful granite with nobody around for miles even on saturday afternoon.
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climbingcowboy
Jun 21, 2003, 2:37 AM
Post #146 of 209
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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Flamer,
Naw I was doing it with Up2top and he has a double ledge.
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hans
Jun 21, 2003, 3:07 AM
Post #147 of 209
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 34
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Just back from the Valley. We bailed off the Prow, too (Tuesday) - must have just missed you, Cowboy. Great learning experience. I'll be ready next time. The jugging was getting to me too (as was the altitude). We were alone on the route for two days. Six or eight parties were on SF, and one on Re-Animator.
Spent all day Wednesday trying to locate a bottle of mosquito juice in the park.
Around noon on Thursday, from El Cap Meadow, I spotted some dude about to top out on Lost in America, messing around with a huge bundle of paper bags tied onto a 30' cord. There were some 8 or 10 parties on the Nose, and three or four others topping out on different routes on El Cap's west face.
I finally got the balls to try soloing, and had a lot of fun on the first pitch of the Salathe. I need to get more efficient, but can't wait to do some more.
I also had my first Camp 4 experience, which was interesting and fun. Lots of cool people. I'd like to have met some more RC.com'ers, though. Next time you see me cruising around wearing my Los Osos cap, please say "Hello."
-Hans
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climbingcowboy
Jun 21, 2003, 3:22 AM
Post #148 of 209
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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Hans,
Wich Tuesday we were up there on the 10th.
Los Osos eh? dude i grew up in Santa Maria, we used to take are horses out to Monta de Oro all the time, I would surf Hazards after work alot.
geoff
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melonhead
Jun 21, 2003, 12:39 PM
Post #149 of 209
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Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 295
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Hey Climbingcowboy,
Maybe I'll run into you in the Valley in the Fall time. Go back and kick some butt. As for needing a ledge, I have a double for sale. Look in the used gear forum.
Stay cool.
Melon
:P
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hans
Jun 21, 2003, 4:22 PM
Post #150 of 209
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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We were up there on the 16th and 17th. -Hans
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