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noodlearms


Jan 28, 2004, 5:20 AM
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I have ethics that are unassailable

I bet you leave big, ugly chalk marks everywhere you go.

curt... you're obviously smart and a hell of a climber... but I am feeling this incredible urge to bait you... you're so damn pompous....


dirtineye


Jan 28, 2004, 5:22 AM
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In reply to:
I have ethics that are unassailable

I bet you leave big, ugly chalk marks everywhere you go.

curt... you're obviously smart and a hell of a climber... but I am feeling this incredible urge to bait you... you're so damn pompous....

Curt, ( hey htat;s my name too BTW, am I talkign to myself?)

DOn;t worry about his bait-- just call him a canadian sport climbier and he'll killfile you LOL.


bobd1953


Jan 28, 2004, 5:30 AM
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Real climbers don't clip bolts OR drink cheap beer.

I am glad you are on Curt's side.


noodlearms


Jan 28, 2004, 5:30 AM
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for the truly open-minded climber all types of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, soloing, ice climbing, mixed climbing, dirt climbing, buildering, 4th-class exposed scrambling, etc.) will provide many learning opportunities that will allow one to progress in any single discipline to an extent greater than that if one focused on that discipline alone. i feel silly stating the obvious but it appears that so many people are either "trad climbers", "sport climbers", "ice climbers", etc. they miss the obvious benefits of different climbing experiences.

w/ respect to sport complementing trad i can only speak from personal experience but i would suggest that this is possible. however, this probably depends on the individual - their strenghts and weaknesses w/ respect to continued improvement in their chosen discipline. i started basic trad climbing years ago teaching myself how to climb using Robbin's "Basic Rockcraft" and "Advanced Rockcraft" manuals, some webbing for a harness, a figure 8 for rappelling/belaying, a few locking biners, a set of chouinard hexes and stoppers and a dynamic rope. I trad climbed for several years w/ some improvement but saw a more rapid improvement when i started to do some sport climbing in addition to trad climbing. For me, both disciplines had something to offer. Trad climbing taught me commitment and composure on lead, the responsibility and confidence of placing your own gear, and the freedom that comes with protecting a line using only natural features of the rock. On the other hand, sport taught me about efficiency and pacing of movement, gave me greater strength and endurance, and it provided me w/ a truer understanding of my physical limits.

Now, i mostly sport climb because i hate hauling all the gear that comes w/ trad climbing and i enjoy the unincumbered freedom of movement that one finds w/ sport climbing. Oh, and i also boulder and do some ice climbing (less now). Does this then make me a "sport climber"? Has this new focus erroded my values and aesthetics? I'll let someone else decide that. I do what makes me happy now. What i do next year or in 10 years will be what is right for me at that time.

Finally, i still find it funny when my "large-testicled, real-climbing, manly" trad friends finally talk me into giving up a sport weekend to join them trad climbing. The climbing and company is always good but what is better is seeing them trying to make sense of this "sport-climbing p*ssy" who sends trad lines they could only hope to someday experience.

curt == owned


curt


Jan 28, 2004, 5:33 AM
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I have ethics that are unassailable

I bet you leave big, ugly chalk marks everywhere you go.

curt... you're obviously smart and a hell of a climber... but I am feeling this incredible urge to bait you... you're so damn pompous....

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I like to think I leave behind only artistically attractive chalk marks--much as Picasso would. 8) Oh yeah, and--as per dirtineye, STFU you third world sport climber. :lol:

Curt


curt


Jan 28, 2004, 5:37 AM
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Hey,

After 5 or 6 glasses of pretty good Merlot, I am starting to take this thread WAY less seriously. :lol: Sport climbers still suck though. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Curt


noodlearms


Jan 28, 2004, 5:38 AM
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STFU you third world sport climber

Screw you, I'm a top-roper. :x


curt


Jan 28, 2004, 5:43 AM
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STFU you third world sport climber

Screw you, I'm a top-roper. :x

Sorry man. In that case, my respect for you just went up.

Curt


dirtineye


Jan 28, 2004, 5:47 AM
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STFU you third world sport climber

Screw you, I'm a top-roper. :x

Sorry man. In that case, my respect for you just went up.

Curt

And I would pick tonight to not drink anything. Ummmm MERLOT.....

YOu know actually top ropiing is more dangerous than sport climbing because at least in sport you ahve more than one piece between you and the ground.... Judging by some of the TR anchors I've seen the top roper is taking a greater risk than the sport climber.


roughster


Jan 28, 2004, 5:48 AM
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Hey,

After 5 or 6 glasses of pretty good Merlot, I am starting to take this thread WAY less seriously. :lol: Sport climbers still suck though. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Curt

Quick, get him while he's drunk!! :lol:

In all seriousness though, many of you would probably not even believe to hear at one point in time I was just as die-hard "trad or die" as many on this thread. Then one day I really tried to come up with the good and evil, right and wrong of trad vs sport. I couldn't justify/rationalize it in my own mind and that was enough for me to shed the artifical limitations I had set on myself.

From that point on I was open to trying all forms of climbng and in the process have learned to love and respect each different discipline. The day my 1st Aid piece popped, the day I took my 1st 30+ footer on gear, the day I redpointed my first 5.12 sport climb, and the day I 1st step foot in Heuco are all up there as some of my finest clmbing days.

I have walked up to a huge ass cliff, picked a line and went for it, knowing nothnig about what lay ahead, armed with a trad rack and some small amount of skill. I have scrubbed a boulderfield yielding hundreds of problems and fought for access to them. I have bolted routes both on rappel and on lead. I have done things that were dumb, and done some things that most likely I could never repeat again outside of the moment where it all came together.

There is a place for all types of climbing, and there should be no bounds on the respect we give every climber who has the balls to turn off the TV and get outside no matter what "style" they choose.


curt


Jan 28, 2004, 5:57 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
STFU you third world sport climber

Screw you, I'm a top-roper. :x

Sorry man. In that case, my respect for you just went up.

Curt

And I would pick tonight to not drink anything. Ummmm MERLOT..
I know, I know, like I need to be lectured on alcohol. The sad fact is that I finished off my Macallan last night. Temporary problem--I assure you and it will be remedied by tomorrow. :wink: I'm thinking Balvenie Doublewood or Lagavulin.

Curt


dirtineye


Jan 28, 2004, 6:12 AM
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The sad fact is that I finished off my Macallan last night. Temporary problem--I assure you and it will be remedied by tomorrow. :wink: I'm thinking Balvenie Doublewood of Lagavulin.

Curt

NOW we are ona good topic.

Screw the double wood, go all out for the portwood 21 year old. I have to keep the scotch in the climbing van or it wold all be gone too LOL.

If you go for the lavagulin make it the 16 year old, but really the 21 year old port wood is worth the differendce in price. There is another scotch in a green tin ( yeah all tin, not cardboard) called,,, braeburn, I think?? that is really inexpensive and good, single malt of course... it's 25 bucks here in the repressinve regressive tax state of alabama, so probably way less anywhere else.

You ever drink any armagnac? Man that is good stuff, and a good bit cheaper than cognac with a better flavor in my opinion.

HIjack almost complete...

SHut up and sit down, this thread is going to cuba!


curt


Jan 28, 2004, 6:22 AM
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OK. Hijack almost complete here--let's finish it off.

1) Armagnac is French and therefore sucks by definition.

2) Portwood single malt also sucks. ALL really good single malt scotch is aged in native American Oak barrels that have previously been used to age Oloroso Sherry for 1-2 years in Spain.

Macallan
Glenfarclas
Glen Lossie
Lagavulin

and my favorite

Edradour

are all aged in this manner. 8)

Curt


Partner angry


Jan 28, 2004, 6:22 AM
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Curt the more you write, the more I like you. Keep swinging buddy. I posted at 2 pages this morning, now, we're at 8. The point is lost and the line has been drawn. Either Curt's side or the the wrong side. The choice is yours but who would actually choose to be on the wrong side.

The traddies I know can fight. It's not how many muscles you bring to the fight, it's all about who's a scrapper. Me, I just swing my #6 friend.

I trad and boulder. I don't use a pad. I fall a lot.

I love to see people like Amber, relative inexperience but in her time has done some sick shit that most of you guys calling her out would kill to have done. On top of that it is refreshing to see a newcomer with the ideals that will keep our sport going. Too many beginners get caught up in the self destructive practices that will either be outlawed or lead to the overall destruction of our sport.

It's not that I hate sport climbers, it's just that my mom thinks they are hot and a sport climber did my dog.


bobd1953


Jan 28, 2004, 6:39 AM
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Curt wrote:Armagnac is French and therefore sucks by definition.

Curt, what you are really trying to say is: Sportclimbing is French and therefore sucks by definition.

You need to upgrade or move on to some good potato Vodka's.


acw


Jan 28, 2004, 6:41 AM
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It's 1986 all over again. I would have guessed that by now this topic would have died down. There were fanatics back then, and there are fanatics now (e.g. Curt). The truth, however, is still the same. Climbing, whether sport, trad, bouldering, alpine, or gym is all cool. And everything complements everything else.


roughster


Jan 28, 2004, 6:42 AM
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*tap tap* focus people! Stay on topic please :lol: There will be no Dr Kodos nominations from this thread!


bobd1953


Jan 28, 2004, 6:44 AM
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I love to see people like Amber, relative inexperience but in her time has done some sick s--- that most of you guys calling her out would kill to have done.

And what would some of that sick-stuff be?

Don't worry buddy, I can put my money were my mouth is and back up any thing I claim to have climbed.


dirtineye


Jan 28, 2004, 6:47 AM
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OK. Hijack almost complete here--let's finish it off.

1) Armagnac is French and therefore sucks by definition.

2) Portwood single malt also sucks. ALL really good single malt scotch is aged in native American Oak barrels that have previously been used to age Oloroso Sherry for 1-2 years in Spain.

Macallan
Glenfarclas
Glen Lossie
Lagavulin

and my favorite

Edradour

are all aged in this manner. 8)

Curt

And I was just starting to like you too.

Well you ALMOST have great tast in scotch.

What do you think of the balvenie sinlge barrel 15 year then? that's a pretty fine one to me, had the most honey flavor and nose of any. If you like lavagulin, do you also like laphroaig?

Just about all scotch is ages in sherry barrels I believe.

I donlt think it is the port barrel that makes the balvenie 21 good I think it is hte 21 uyears LOL. Besides, you said alreayd you like the double wood, adn HEY one of those is on port RIGHT? ( I know it is unfair to cite something you sad more than two posts ago, but deal with it LOL)

But anyway, I'll forgive you if you send a bottle of the balvenie 30 year, any one of em. and send your self with it so I can ahve a belayer LOL.

I will send yo ua PM about a funny thing with alcohol adn climbing that woudl just set off the spray detectors in here hahaha,


kalcario


Jan 28, 2004, 6:54 AM
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*On top of that it is refreshing to see a newcomer with the ideals that will keep our sport going. Too many beginners get caught up in the self destructive practices that will either be outlawed or lead to the overall destruction of our sport.*

You just described the current bouldering fad and it's effect on climbing in general. People that in years past would have been racking up in El Cap Meadows are instead cowering underneath it with mattresses strapped to their backs. You can call bouldering climbing but it has about as much in common with climbing as skimboarding does to surfing, or miniature golf to golf. I feel so sorry for all the kids I know who were unfortunate to have been caught up in the current bouldering fad, most of them will never become climbers. How bout you, kid?


curt


Jan 28, 2004, 6:54 AM
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Curt wrote:Armagnac is French and therefore sucks by definition.

Curt, what you are really trying to say is: Sportclimbing is French and therefore sucks by definition.

You need to upgrade or move on to some good potato Vodka's.

Geez Bob,

I was trying to hijack this thread WAY away from the sportclimbing issue. There are plenty of valid reasons to hate the French that have absolutely nothing to do with climbing.

Curt


diesel___smoke


Jan 28, 2004, 7:01 AM
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The French are 'silly' people

Sport climbing is @#$%%%^&@#%$^@Q#$$#@%$


curt


Jan 28, 2004, 7:06 AM
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And I was just starting to like you too.

Well you ALMOST have great taste in scotch.

Oh great, another scotch n00b to set straight.

In reply to:
What do you think of the balvenie sinlge barrel 15 year then? that's a pretty fine one to me, had the most honey flavor and nose of any. If you like lavagulin, do you also like laphroaig?

No, I do not like Laphroiag or Ardbeg or the other heavy Islay malts as much as I like Lagavulin. Lagavulin is the only Islay malt that does use Sherry barrel aging to mitigate the intensely peaty and smoky characteristics of the whisky from that island.

In reply to:
Just about all scotch is ages in sherry barrels I believe.

Nope. Just a select few. And, fewer distilleries still age ALL their malt in Sherry barrels.

In reply to:
I donlt think it is the port barrel that makes the balvenie 21 good I think it is hte 21 uyears LOL. Besides, you said alreayd you like the double wood, adn HEY one of those is on port RIGHT? ( I know it is unfair to cite something you sad more than two posts ago, but deal with it LOL)

Wrong again. In the double-wood aging, the first aging is done in virgin American Oak Barrels, and the final aging is done in Sherry barrels.

In reply to:
I will send yo ua PM about a funny thing with alcohol adn climbing that woudl just set off the spray detectors in here hahaha,

OK. I'll be looking for it. Haha.

Curt


bobd1953


Jan 28, 2004, 7:06 AM
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I was trying to hijack this thread WAY away from the sportclimbing issue.

Not so fast, this is just getting to be fun.

I raise your 6 glasses of Merlot by my three double vodka's and OJ.


dirtineye


Jan 28, 2004, 7:08 AM
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YOu know I believe it is easier for a boulderer to move to trad than for a sportie to move to trad.

But what is really good is for a trad clibmer to get roaring drunk and go climb the overhanding 40 footers at the gym on top belay. I mean yo ugotta do something when it's raining, right? and alcohol is good right? and climbing is good right? but gym climbing sucks so lets see two goods plus one bad makes a good correct?

Thought so.

Just don;t set a bad example for the kids. haha.

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