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mowz
Jul 22, 2005, 12:14 PM
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Hi guys. I'll be in the Gunks in Oct. and was wondering if it's busy during that time; I'm looking to climb during the weekdays. Is Oct. a good time (weather-wise) for climbing in the Gunks? Is there a guide book that you would recommend for the Gunks? How's the camping, food situation, etc.?
I'll prolly be there early Oct. a few days after the Chicago Marathon.
Thank you.
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kimmyt
Jul 22, 2005, 12:29 PM
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Mowz, that's the best time for the Gunks! The colors and temps will be gorgeous and if you're there during the week you won't have nearly the crowds. Have fun and good luck in your Marathon!
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happiegrrrl
Jul 22, 2005, 12:57 PM
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On the 14 - 16th of October, rc.commers will have the 3rd Annual Pennsylvania Gunks Gathering. It's got a thread in the Events & Gatherings forum. You should come for that!
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mowz
Jul 24, 2005, 12:27 AM
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Thanks Kimmy and Happie. I don't know if I'll be staying long enough for the gathering. In addition, I don't like crowds much.
What about good guide books? Camping/Lodging? Food?
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climbingbetty22
Jul 24, 2005, 5:18 PM
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Geez, too bad my sister's wedding is October 15. Don't get me wrong, I love my sister and I am very happy to see her get married, but getting stuck in a big foofy dress and having every one of my relatives ask me, "so when are you going to get married?", isn't exactly my idea of a good time. :roll:
Anyway, completely off topic.
Mowz- Dick Williams just put out a new guide to the Trapps that is pretty darn cool and also has info about camping/lodging/food/natural history/climbing history/etc. If you're not local finding, it might be a bit difficult. I've checked several internet sites, REI, Moosejaw, etc. But they don't carry it. If you want to procure a copy of the guide in advance, probably the best avenue is to go to Rock and Snow's website(http://www.rocksnow.com) and order it from them. If however, you just want the straight up beta, feel free to post again and any number of us Gunks junkies will fill you in.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 26, 2005, 3:38 PM
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So, here it is, Tuesday already, and not a one of us has checked in to spray about what we did this last weekend. With the perfection in weather, maybe some have not yet crammed themselves back into their cubicles.....
For me, I had a really good time at the Gunks, doing the self-rescue workshop. I learned a lot, and now I need to practice, practice, practice.
I snagged some more blueberries for lunch too. Tasteee.....
Looking forward to this weekend, though I can only get out on Saturday.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 26, 2005, 4:44 PM
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Thank God Happiegirl! I was waiting for someone to post up. You'd think someone would be talking about weekend plans or looking for a partner for the weekend. But there our poor little thread sat with no new replies for several days. :(
After getting my ass handed to me about that whole mentor thing, I decided, you know those folks are right. I should just go out and learn stuff for myself. (Never a better time to experiment then when one's life hangs in the balance :roll: ) I don't need a mentor to hold my hand. So a friend of mine, who's also a new-ish leader, and I are going to be in the Gunks doing some easy leads and logging some mileage on the sharp end.
I'm hoping my pass will be here by then (I know I can get a temporary one, but the really thing is so much more stroke-worthy). I sent in my form a day or two ahead of my friend and he already has his. WTF? :shock: Its driving me nuts! I check my mail 3 times a day. I feel like Ralphie in A Christmas Story, waiting for my Little Orphan Annie decoder ring to show up. :lol:
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troutboy
Jul 26, 2005, 5:19 PM
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In reply to: Thank God Happiegirl! I was waiting for someone to post up. You'd think someone would be talking about weekend plans or looking for a partner for the weekend. But there our poor little thread sat with no new replies for several days. :(
I had a most excellent day mountain biking at Minnewaska State Park and the Preserve with a fellow Gunks.comer on Saturday. I have been climbing in the Gunks for over 10 years now and I never really explored more than the "common" climbing areas (Trapps, Nears, Millbrook, Lost City). The day included 28 miles of very nice double track, some bushwacking and gully hopping, a couple boulder problems, great views, refreshing dips at well-known watering holes, and a beer at Bacchus with some other rc.comers.
Sunday was another great day with some excellent climbing with a fun partner who climbed well. Although our crowd-avoidance stategy backfired, we still managed to get in a reasonable amount of quality climbing. It was nice to be back out on the rock after a very long (for me) layoff of over a month. Life was good.
I'm heading back up again this weekend and looking for a partner for Sunday and Monday.
Enjoy the upcoming weekend folks, be considerate at the crag, and climb safely.
T
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ryanv
Jul 26, 2005, 8:50 PM
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In reply to: After getting my ass handed to me about that whole mentor thing, I decided, you know those folks are right. I should just go out and learn stuff for myself. (Never a better time to experiment then when one's life hangs in the balance :roll: ) I don't need a mentor to hold my hand. So a friend of mine, who's also a new-ish leader, and I are going to be in the Gunks doing some easy leads and logging some mileage on the sharp end.
That's the spirit, way to break out on your own! It's hard to get enough leading in at the easier grades if you are always climbing with someone significantly more experienced than you. Of course, when you get the chance to go out with an experienced partner, it's always good to take it and observe what they do and listen to their advice. A nice mix of experienced and inexperienced partners is a good balance to advance in my gumby opinion.
Terrie- It was good seeing you out saturday. We ate at Murphy's instead of Bacchus because we were afraid of missing the bus. I think I'm going to make Murphy's my new New Paltz dinner spot. It's cheaper then Bacchus, the food is better and you can sit outside. Plus its closer to the bus stop so its easier to squeeze in that last beer! Who needs 100s of bottled beer to choose from anyway? I should be back up there for my usual saturday appearance. Maybe I will see some of you up there.
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feedmerocks
Jul 26, 2005, 8:57 PM
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In reply to: I had a most excellent day mountain biking at Minnewaska State Park and the Preserve with a fellow Gunks.comer on Saturday.
Ahh Tim, so that was you. Perhaps I shoulda gone... there's only so many times you can toprope the abyss at Lost City. You and Chris just missed Dana, he was going to meet you guys but he went riding in the other direction...
Nate
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feedmerocks
Jul 26, 2005, 9:14 PM
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So is anyone going up this weekend? I've been climbing with the same partner too much lately, I need a change of pace. And it looks like the weekend should bring low humidity! (Err, what am I saying, I mean it's going to rain thunder and hail ALL WEEK LONG stay away people...)
Also, I'm bouncing back and forth between Manhattan and Norwalk lately; would anyone like to check out Chelsea Piers with me?
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jackflash
Jul 27, 2005, 1:41 AM
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I was at Little Falls Saturday and Sunday. It was pretty casual. I spent both days on the Island with a short stop up to the Tier on Saturday.
I've been looking forward to a trip to Wallface, but my partner told me today while on our way to the Gunks that she didn't think her sore ankle could handle the approach (she fell off Absurdland a few weeks ago), so the trip looks like its set back a bit. Some time in August hopefully.
We dropped our packs in front of Retribution and both commented that it didn't look too hard. Ominous words. Some routes have that Siren quality about them, when you know they are going to be harder than they look and yet feel sucked in by their appearance regardless. I climbed easily up the corner, committed to the roof, and fell, hitting a small ledge on the way down. The route has an apt name. Lowering to a stance, I tried again, this time managing to latch a good hold and pull onto my feet. Despite feeling like I was going to pump out before placing gear on a few different occasions, it was a good route, with some tricky moves higher as well.
My parner led Classy, the variation to Classic, in fine style. Then we headed over to Pink Laurel, but only did the first pitch. To finish off the day we got onto RMC, which was a beautiful easy route. The last pitch was a fun cruise up a juggy face. Who doesn't love Gunks jugs?
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climbingbetty22
Jul 27, 2005, 3:36 AM
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If Wallface is a bust, you ought to come down and hang out in the Gunks!
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taino
Jul 27, 2005, 4:21 PM
Post #289 of 700
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Spray?
Okay...
[spray]
Rumney all last weekend from Friday afternoon to Sunday midday; onsited my hardest lead to date (5.9), climbed my hardest route to date (5.10a); my partner and I logged 35 man-pitches total for the weekend with 23 of those being on Saturday; escaped - this time - without serious injury.
Yesterday, I completed, and passed, my AMGA TRSM course. Took only two attempts (apparently, no one passes the first time).
Looking to lead Snooky's Return, both pitches, this Saturday along with - hopefully - V3.[/spray]
I'm so tired...
T
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climbingbetty22
Jul 27, 2005, 6:04 PM
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Nice spray T
It's here everyone! My Mohonk Preserve pass is here!!! Just in time for this weekend!
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jackflash
Jul 27, 2005, 7:44 PM
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In reply to: Yesterday, I completed, and passed, my AMGA TRSM course.
Congrats. Did you do the course for a particular reason or figure it was just a good thing to have?
A friend of mine is doing that out in Colorado. I'm worried that he's going to come back and tell me how all my placements suck, my knots are worthless, and that I can't use my shoelaces as a rabbit runner.
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kimmyt
Jul 27, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Well, see, Tai already does that. :)
At least now he's got the paper to back it up.
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taino
Jul 27, 2005, 8:02 PM
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In reply to: Well, see, Tai already does that. :) At least now he's got the paper to back it up.
Nice. :roll: This, after assisting you in ground school. Ingrate. :P
Jack, I did it more for my own education than anything else; however, if I have the opportunity to work as a guide - even part time - I wouldn't turn it down. I enjoy teaching people and watching as they become competent in their own; it's a great feeling to have a hand in such things.
Let it be said that I only critique placements et al if it's requested. Kimmy. :P And there's nothing wrong with using your shoelaces as prusik lines, if that's what you've got. :)
T
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kimmyt
Jul 27, 2005, 8:06 PM
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Aw, now you know I'm just joshin'.
Tai=fount of knowledge (and he only made fun of my cam placements a little bit....but they deserved it!)
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dirtineye
Jul 27, 2005, 8:51 PM
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Lace your shoes with 3mm cord just in case you need emergency last ditch efforts prussics.
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ryanv
Jul 27, 2005, 11:15 PM
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Tai- nice job up at Rumney. Sounds like a sucessful trip.
In reply to: Looking to lead Snooky's Return, both pitches, this Saturday along with - hopefully - V3.[/spray] I'm so tired... T
I admire your pre-climb spray as well. That's too ballsy for me to emulate though. I wouldn't want to be held to account for all my midweek guidebook dreams for the upcoming saturday. I always get really brave/ambitious with my plans around wednesday or thursday...and then reality hits saturday morning. I know you'll send though and look forward to hearing about it monday or maybe over dinner on sat. evening. cheers.
Ryan
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climbingbetty22
Jul 28, 2005, 12:31 AM
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In reply to: I always get really brave/ambitious with my plans around wednesday or thursday...and then reality hits saturday morning.
Glad to know someone else does the same thing!
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taino
Jul 28, 2005, 4:26 AM
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In reply to: Tai- nice job up at Rumney. Sounds like a sucessful trip. In reply to: Looking to lead Snooky's Return, both pitches, this Saturday along with - hopefully - V3.[/spray] I'm so tired... T I admire your pre-climb spray as well. That's too ballsy for me to emulate though. I wouldn't want to be held to account for all my midweek guidebook dreams for the upcoming saturday. I always get really brave/ambitious with my plans around wednesday or thursday...and then reality hits saturday morning. I know you'll send though and look forward to hearing about it monday or maybe over dinner on sat. evening. cheers. Ryan
Well, I've been trying to get on Snooky's Return for a couple months, now, and V3 recetly got added to my tick list... if I can get on them, great; if there's line, oh well. Might as well do them when I have my favorite partner around; Adam is leaving for China/Japan for four months, starting next week.
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jackflash
Jul 28, 2005, 3:06 PM
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Are you planning on combining pitches on Snooky's, or just not doing the third pitch? There's a nice variation I found for the 3rd. Traverse left until the GT peters out and you'll be at a multiple left-facing corner/roof system. Follow these up and left until you are under a large roof--the same roof that Beginner's Delight avoids on the left. Turn this roof on the right at a corner/crack and follow the crack to the top.
It was short, easier than the other two pitches, and covered in that thick brown lichen, but there was an old pin and it had good climbing.
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taino
Jul 28, 2005, 5:59 PM
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I've never heard of there being a third pitch... perhaps I'll check it out.
T
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