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feedmerocks
Aug 1, 2005, 1:44 AM
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All right Tai, we're all waiting with bated breath:
How did Snooky's go?
(And V3. It's got less numbers to spray about, but it's harder in its way.)
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mowz
Aug 1, 2005, 1:46 AM
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So I was talking to someone about guides and was told that there are two guide books: the grey Dick that covers the Trapps and the Todd Swain book. The Swain book, as I was told, covers many areas but has poor route description. Is there a book that covers many areas with good topos and such?
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climbingbetty22
Aug 1, 2005, 4:10 AM
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So I just got back from a weekend in the Gunks. I've got say, I love that place!!!
It was a funny weekend because I ran into so many folks that I knew or that I knew of through rc.com. I met Tradrenn on the proch of the deli, jackflash after he nearly dropped an unannouced rope on my head, (shame one you!!! hehehe- I told you I was going to have to out you publically for that, but its all good :) ), shared a rappel with gblauer and mitchell, met tanio in the deli and wormly81 & cadaverchris on the good ol' porch as well.
My partners for the weekend were great and I had so much fun hanging out with them. Thanks Jules & GiggloJeff! (how could this guy not be a gigglo-- he got to spend the weekend climbing with two babes!)
Very good times were had all weekend and a special thanks to my partners in crime, whom I will allow to remain nameless unless they choose to identify themselves. :wink: We kept the Vulgarian spirit alive with a [violet]nude[/violet], night-time ascent of Shockley's Ceiling. :shock:
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freeskicolorado
Aug 1, 2005, 2:39 PM
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This weekend was only my second trip to the Gunks, but I already can't wait to go back.
Many thanks to CB22 and Jules for the belays, dealing with my fusterclucked rope, and the general good times. Enjoyed meeting wormly81, cracklover, gblaur, mitchel, taino, cadaverchris, and some of the other local New Paltz characters (most notably, Jim the Drunk.. all conversations at the Deli should include him). Followed CB22 on some nice climbing, and scared the crap out of myself leading some of the easy classics. I'm definitely a trad convert; after all, what's better than wimpering up climbs way under your physical ability? Apparently I "looked" good on them though, so at least I've got everybody fooled :)
Will be back next weekend, but just toproping at Peter's Kill... though I forsee myself venturing out to the Trapps again Sunday if I have the chance...
-Jeff
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feedmerocks
Aug 1, 2005, 3:27 PM
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In reply to: after all, what's better than wimpering up climbs way under your physical ability
Whimpering up climbs near the edge of your physical ability -- you asked.
I've whimpered and, yes, sketched up many of the Gunks "easy" classics. Most recently, I went up Gelsa and did the alternate traverse around to the Roseland bolts a little too high, and sketched due to the lack of hands when you do it that way.
Easy Gunks climbs (say, 5.6 and under) are just embarassing that way.
Sounds like you had a classic weekend, man. Good times.
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ryanv
Aug 1, 2005, 5:48 PM
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can't resist any longer....must spray:
I had a great day out Saturday with a new partner I met through the AMC. The weather was beautiful and the crowds were light in the High E buttress area. We managed to get in Moonlight, CCK, and High E. I got the onsight of both CCK and High E and managed to even stay on-route on the confusing 2nd pitch of CCK thanks to the improved descriptions in the grey Dick.
In some anti-spray news, I did manage to act like a total wuss underneath the High-E crux roof. After some reconnaissance I actually sat down on my butt under the roof and chatted with my belayer for 10 minutes or so before working up the courage to commit to "the move". Mentally its quite a trip to move out of that comfortable nook. Amazingly no one was behind us on High E so only my belayer was inconvenienced by my display of cowardice.
Oh and just to give my post some socially redeeming characteristics I will throw my 2 cents at Mowz guidebook question. Mowz- If you are just on a short trip to the gunks I would try to get a hold of the old Dick Williams Select guidebook as it covers the popular routes in the Trapps and the Near Trapps. I think it is out of print though. If you can't get that I would probably go with the Swain because you are going to want to do some routes in the Nears and the grey Dick is the Trapps only. If you are doing popular routes you can usually follow the chalk highway anyways so the Swain descriptions will probably suffice. If you think you will be making multiple trips to the gunks in coming years i would get both books then because the new grey Dick is great for the Trapps.
Now lets hear some more weekend spray out there-
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kimmyt
Aug 1, 2005, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: Now lets hear some more weekend spray out there-
I won 3 out of 5 games of Beirut, and managed to not lose my underwear. Twas a good weekend.
K.
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jackflash
Aug 1, 2005, 7:21 PM
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Other than an attempt on Christa's life it was a good day.
I have no spray, but my partners would have plenty. Gwen seconded her first climb--also the first time she's done multipitch. Becky led her first multipitch route (the second pitch of Betty) and then did her first multipitch in which she had all the leads (RMC). I got rope-gunned all day until I decided that Betty and RMC didn't have enough exposure and led up Strictly From Nowhere. Unfortunately Becky wasn't able to get through the roofs, and her sense of ethics precluded the use of the rope for assistance (it also ruled out clipping fixed pins and bolts as cheating--yikes!).
I was hoping to stay Sunday as well, but ended up heading to Syracuse. No worries: I'll be back to the Preserve tomorrow.
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 12:10 AM
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In reply to: All right Tai, we're all waiting with bated breath: How did Snooky's go? (And V3. It's got less numbers to spray about, but it's harder in its way.)
Alas, after getting on Son of Easy Overhang on Saturday - at around 1pm, in the brutal sun and heat - I opted to save Snooky's and V3 for another day. Instead, I finally (FINALLY!!!!) cleanly climbed Hertie Gertie - which is just getting slicker every time I make an attempt.
While Snooky's is a lovely route, Son of EO is lightyears better - IMHO.
It was excellent to meet CB22 and FreeSkiColorado, as well. Glad you guys enjoyed it, here. :)
T
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2005, 12:09 PM
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howdy folks, pardon me butting in on the NY climbers thread, had to respond to this...
In reply to: In some anti-spray news, I did manage to act like a total wuss underneath the High-E crux roof. After some reconnaissance I actually sat down on my butt under the roof and chatted with my belayer for 10 minutes or so before working up the courage to commit to "the move". Mentally its quite a trip to move out of that comfortable nook. Amazingly no one was behind us on High E so only my belayer was inconvenienced by my display of cowardice.
dude, don't feel bad, have you read my TR about leading High E? that one move took me a half dozen tries before I commited.
Accepting that you're afraid does not make a person a coward.
CB22, I know who your "vulgarian" partners were. ;-)
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ryanv
Aug 2, 2005, 2:09 PM
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Hey Rob,
I enjoyed your High E TR. Don't worry, I only would have felt bad about waffling under the High E roof if there was a line of people behind me I was holding up, which thankfully there wasn't. I think one of the reasons its so hard to commit to the move is there is no pressing reason to do so. You can easily down climb and bail, or comfortably sit under the roof for as long as you want. Its not like a bad stance and a sketchy down climb force you to continue on.
Ryan
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pjcozzi
Aug 2, 2005, 2:22 PM
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In reply to: I ... managed to even stay on-route on the confusing 2nd pitch of CCK thanks to the improved descriptions in the grey Dick.
Nice work, we got so off route on that pitch that the leader said it was harder than some 10a’s he’s done. The poor team under us took the same route.
Spray: I finally lead Shockley’s this weekend and have a picture to prove it: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n=Show&PhotoID=58579. Not a very good one but a picture none the less.
I also lead Triple Bulges (5.5) which is suppose to be PG but I swear there’s at least an 30 foot run out on some easy terrain between the first and second bulge. Anyone climb it before?
Patrick
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 2:58 PM
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Nice lead, Patrick.
When I attempted it, I had that gold camalot in the roof, the pin, and two back-ups for the pin just in case. *snicker*
T
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2005, 3:09 PM
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in that pic, are you above the roof?
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 3:30 PM
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Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above.
Doesn't look like much, does it? *snicker*
Much worse in person.
T
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climbingbetty22
Aug 2, 2005, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above.
I thought that first ceiling was the hardest, from there it was pretty easy.
Robbovious-- for the record, I read your TR in the Mass Climbers forum and I saw the little comment. Yes, it was at night. Yes, we were all naked. and Yes, I was even a bit drunk. But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll:
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2005, 5:00 PM
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In reply to: But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll:
CB22, the "high" comment was directed at another of your Shockley's party. ;-) BTW, nice to meet you, sorta, and, I hope, no hard feelings about the "...STFU so we can get some sleep..." ;-)
if we hadn't had an early-wakeup plan (which turned out to be unneccesary giventhe line we were in waiting for the route) I'd have enjoyed hanging out a bit later and having a few more beers.
in all honesty, when the event was related to us the next morning, I was in amazement at the nerve of you three, sounded like a real blast.
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pjcozzi
Aug 2, 2005, 5:38 PM
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In reply to: Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above.
Above the ceiling was easy until I exited the corner and saw the 2nd ceiling and crack above – that was pretty hard but well protected.
In reply to: Doesn't look like much, does it? *snicker* Much worse in person.
From the angle in the picture the ceiling looks deceitfully small but it’s the same ceiling in the popular naked Dick Williams poster. I guess it’s about 3 feet – one hell of a stretch to get the first hold above it.
Patrick
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 5:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above. I thought that first ceiling was the hardest, from there it was pretty easy.
The first ceiling is difficult, but the second roof can be quite an unpleasant surprise to someone who thinks that, after pulling the first roof, the route is over.
When I seconded it, the leader pulled the first roof with aplomb - but fell at the second roof.
T
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cracklover
Aug 2, 2005, 6:51 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll: CB22, the "high" comment was directed at another of your Shockley's party. ;-) BTW, nice to meet you, sorta, and, I hope, no hard feelings about the "...STFU so we can get some sleep..." ;-) if we hadn't had an early-wakeup plan (which turned out to be unneccesary giventhe line we were in waiting for the route) I'd have enjoyed hanging out a bit later and having a few more beers. in all honesty, when the event was related to us the next morning, I was in amazement at the nerve of you three, sounded like a real blast.
You know, it's been bandied about so much, I guess I should pull together a TR. I'll have to finish with the pictures first, get everyone's okay on some slightly edited web-publishable versions of them, and get 'em up online. I'll make it a project for next week when I'm stuck on the shore.
Regarding the debate about the roofs, I seem to recall from earlier ascents of mine that the second roof felt harder. This time it all felt as smooth as silk. It's interesting going through a roof like that with zero exposure; in the dark, everything outside of the little square of light looks just the same.
GO
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climbingbetty22
Aug 2, 2005, 7:07 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll: CB22, the "high" comment was directed at another of your Shockley's party. ;-) BTW, nice to meet you, sorta, and, I hope, no hard feelings about the "...STFU so we can get some sleep..." ;-) if we hadn't had an early-wakeup plan (which turned out to be unneccesary giventhe line we were in waiting for the route) I'd have enjoyed hanging out a bit later and having a few more beers. in all honesty, when the event was related to us the next morning, I was in amazement at the nerve of you three, sounded like a real blast.
No robbovius, no hard feelings. Without the gentle goading the get the fuck out, we may not have been pushed to do our daring ascent, so thanks!
It was a real blast. I'm looking forward to cracklover's TR and accompanying pictures (actually I'm just interested in seeing how he gets them past the mods). I'm actually surprised that it didn't seem to make much of ruckus when I sprayed about it on the thread. Not that that was my intent. Actually, I was suspecting that people would try to call bullshit on me. Meh. Oh well. I know the three of us had a blast while we were doing it and that we are all happy to have a wild and crazy story to tell. I like to tell folks thats my idea of a threesome! :wink:
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wawona
Aug 2, 2005, 10:23 PM
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has anyone seen d and c at the gunks lately or heard from them? those climbing sissy's must have gotten scared or something, oh i remember know their getting married to city girls
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wormly81
Aug 2, 2005, 11:05 PM
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A naked, drunken, nightime ascent of Shockleys in a rain shower? I'm glad you enjoyed your vulgarian baptism :)
Right on. Wheres those pics.
Jeff
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