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feedmerocks
Aug 2, 2005, 11:21 PM
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In reply to: I also lead Triple Bulges (5.5) which is suppose to be PG but I swear there’s at least an 30 foot run out on some easy terrain between the first and second bulge. Anyone climb it before? Patrick
You're quite right. In New Hampshire, where the trad climbs are given ratings with the easier runout in parenthesis, this would be graded 5.5G (5.3/5.4 X)
Yes, X.
IMO the overall rating should be 5.5X. You simply can't trust a 5.5 leader (and by that I mean, somebody who's truely pushing his/her limits on 5.5/5.6) not to fall on the 5.4 down below.
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pjcozzi
Aug 3, 2005, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I also lead Triple Bulges (5.5) which is suppose to be PG but I swear there’s at least an 30 foot run out on some easy terrain between the first and second bulge. Anyone climb it before? Patrick You're quite right. In New Hampshire, where the trad climbs are given ratings with the easier runout in parenthesis, this would be graded 5.5G (5.3/5.4 X) Yes, X. IMO the overall rating should be 5.5X. You simply can't trust a 5.5 leader (and by that I mean, somebody who's truely pushing his/her limits on 5.5/5.6) not to fall on the 5.4 down below.
It makes me a little nervous that a PG climb can have X parts and the guidebook mentions nothing of it. I guess Williams didn’t reclimb this one for his new book. He does provide extra gear information for some routes though. For example, one route near Madame’s G (I forget the name) goes at 5.7 PG but he says to make sure your comfortable soloing the 5.6 R section unless you are very creative placing at placing protection.
I also found a discussion on Triple Bulges protection as part of a larger thread at gunks.com.
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freeskicolorado
Aug 3, 2005, 2:20 AM
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I was a bit surprised too this weekend when I led Dennis (5.5G). There was a section mid-pitch that, even in my very limited experience, I'd call at least PG on 5.4ish terrain. Not a huge deal in this case, but rather surprising when I was expecting to be able to sew it up the entire way. Upon further examination of the new Williams guide, he does say that the protection ratings refer to the protection available at the crux and not necessarily for the rest of the climb. Some of the routes seem to have notes about runout sections, but not many of the easier grades have these noted it seems. Guess I'll just have to keep it in mind when picking out routes.
-Jeff
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jackflash
Aug 3, 2005, 2:28 AM
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In reply to: From the angle in the picture the ceiling looks deceitfully small but it’s the same ceiling in the popular naked Dick Williams poster.
That picture saved my ascent of the route. I blindly kept following the juggy holds on the second pitch until I was standing on top of a pillar, not realizing that I had gotten onto the last pitch of Shockley's Without. It wasn't until I was in the same spot as the picture was taken that I realized how off route I was. I sighed and had to downclimb to finish properly.
I went to the Preserve today and did Nosedive first thing before I lost my ambition. It was a very good route with a sustained but enjoyable crux.
My partner wanted to lead Raunchy, which she'd done before as a second. We decided to do both pitches. I got the dirty, runout, where-the-hell-am-I supposed-to-go-now one. Good thing 90% of it was under 5.3! Even then I contemplated bailing numerous times.
V3 was also on her list. She led the first pitch and flew up the 5.1 p2 to the GT. The Gray Dick adds a third pitch (which is actually the last pitch of PLEH!), so we did that too. Although I'm not sure how including a 5.8 pitch into a 5.7 climb makes sense, it did get us a direct line to the summit at least. It was an enjoyable roof, although short and a little contrived.
In the morning we heard that a guy decked on Frog's Head and was taken out in an ambulance. I'm not sure of the details, but the third-hand information was that he wasn't wearing a helmet and landed on his back.
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freeskicolorado
Aug 3, 2005, 2:53 AM
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In reply to: In the morning we heard that a guy decked on Frog's Head and was taken out in an ambulance. I'm not sure of the details, but the third-hand information was that he wasn't wearing a helmet and landed on his back.
Interesting... I did P1 of Frog's Head on Sunday and remember there being good gear the entire way. Anybody have any info on what happened? Hope he's alright.
-Jeff
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happiegrrrl
Aug 3, 2005, 2:26 PM
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No idea about any accident on Frog's Head, but -
I seconded on the climb this weekend and fell off fairly low(I have no problem admitting to being either A) a crappy climber or B) strong enough in character to admit I am a crappy climber!).
It was the first time I ever even looked at that climb, and though I was on second, it did seem to me to be a good, gear-eating crack. But, there is that little ledge-y thing jutting out below..... As I came off, I took a look down and my mind alerted me to the "incoming ledge." Had I not pushed my feet off the wall to evade it, I'd have hit. I was on stretchy double ropes and sailed right past the thing, but I suppose a person on lead may have still been able to make impact. I was very, very thankful that I had seen that ledge coming......
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 3:14 PM
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I'm thinking you slipped/fell at the polished bulge, right? Definitely a tricky move for its grade.
Regardless, heading to Keene Valley on the weekend. I’m taking an aid class on the Saturday, but have Sunday free, in case anyone wants to join up. Perhaps get on Quadraphenia.
Let me know.
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wormly81
Aug 3, 2005, 6:43 PM
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I got over to Minnewaska State Park for the first time on Monday and I was pleasantly surprised to see how nice it was. I took a childhood friend up to the rocks overlooking Minnewaska Lake and had a picnic on this wonderful diving board formation with a perfect bench seat at the end. She seemed rather interested as I explained the history of the land and surrounding area (emphasizing the importance of the rock climbing community of course). On the way back to the parking area I found a couple areas to scramble around while my friend followed, finding her own path of least resistance and enjoying the views.
After renting some shoes at the EMS (10 bucks... ouch!) we went over to Peterskill (same parking pass) and went to what I believe is the breakfast wall. It was a large arete formation with the right side facing 44/55. I moved our anchor about 4 times, dropping the rope on several interesting features by building anchors on a ledge system just below the top of the cliff.
With the bugs and heat demanding our retreat from Peterskill, we drove over to split rock and went for a dip. When theres not a hundred people there I love that place. We hiked up the Old Minnewaska trail for about 2 miles before turning around and running back. Take note: if you have a friend who is a runner and dont feel like revisiting your old track days dont take them hiking on nice carraige roads. It was obviously time to head to the deli.
When at first we were driving west from New Paltz, I pointed out the cliffs to my friend who commented "you mean you've climbed up those rocks there?" When I mentioned that I had she seemed a little perplexed with whether or not that was a good idea on my part. Now on the deck inbetween sips of dads new homebrew she was asking questions about what it would take for her to be able to accomplish the same. I can't think of a more pleasing situation than to introduce a good friend to one of my favorite places and get such enthusiasm and interest.
On another note, I have to thank my two good friends who shared the spectacular "Vulgarian Baptism" with me on, uhm... Sunday Morning. It is really refreshing to meet others with a well honed sense of adventure. Right on.
Jeff
PS Shakylegs: If I might ask, what outfit are you taking your aid class through?
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Rock and River.
They come highly recommended from a user on this board. And I'll be damned if I ever give money to EMS. Yeah, I said it.
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 7:25 PM
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Not that I fault you, but I'm curious, what do you have against EMS shakey?
"Vulgarian Baptism." HA! Jeff- I love it!
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 7:35 PM
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The guides:
- Overpriced.
- Loud.
- Retrobolting trade routes.
- Distracting a belayer with beta while the leader is leading a thin traverse, only to spout, "oh, I've done that route so many times. Bla bla."
- Dropping ropes on parties below without warning.
-Lowering first-time climbers to a belay station. When said climbers arrive at belay (where, I forgot to mention, we were already anchored, thanks for asking, fuck-whit guide), they don't know how to secure themselves to the anchor.
I could go on, but I thought I would share what I saw in one day. I shit you not. Well, except for the retrobolting part. I don't climb at night when the retrobolting occurs.
Oh, and I'll make a deal with ya: if you don't call me skakey, I won't call ya bettey, mkay. ;)
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 7:48 PM
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In reply to: I don't climb at night when the retrobolting occurs.
You should try it sometime...climbing at night is fun.
In reply to: Oh, and I'll make a deal with ya: if you don't call me skakey, I won't call ya bettey, mkay. ;)
My bad...I just woke up from a nap... wasn't paying attention. :oops:
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 8:00 PM
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Hey, not knocking the climbing-at-night. It's the retrobolting-at-night-so-we-can-take-even-more-customers-up-this-route with which I disagree.
And you're forgiven for the typo. For now.
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 10:12 PM
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Don't worry, I have some really great ways to procure an extra measure of forgiveness if need be. :twisted:
And hey, I didn't call you "skankey." :wink:
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cracklover
Aug 3, 2005, 10:42 PM
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In reply to: On another note, I have to thank my two good friends who shared the spectacular "Vulgarian Baptism" with me on, uhm... Sunday Morning. It is really refreshing to meet others with a well honed sense of adventure. Right on. Jeff
Right back atcha. 8^) It was a helluva good time.
I'd like to encourage all of you NY Climbers to embrace your dreams. What was so cool about the Vulgarians, and what can inspire us all, was not just their vulgarity, but how they embraced life, climbing, etc as an adventure to throw themselves into fully!
Life is either a daring adventure or it's nothing.
GO
Or as my sig puts it...
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cracklover
Aug 3, 2005, 10:50 PM
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And since this thread is officially in the "Partners" area...
Anyone curious to learn more about the whole Shockley's "Dick Williams Style" thing, feel free to PM me for beta.
GO
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 11:12 PM
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What? No trip report Gabe???
You've got to send me the pics of out ascent!!!
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freeskicolorado
Aug 3, 2005, 11:19 PM
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And you need to send me the other photos from this weekend (though they won't be nearly as exciting).
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kimmyt
Aug 3, 2005, 11:48 PM
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I only want to see pics if theres full frontal.
(and not from Christa, either, although I'm sure she's got a nice...rack)
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climbingbetty22
Aug 4, 2005, 2:40 AM
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Oh yeah, they're some that are full frontal :twisted:
YoCO- I've downloaded them. I'll pick out the better ones and send them to you. But I've got study for right now!
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cracklover
Aug 4, 2005, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: What? No trip report Gabe??? You've got to send me the pics of out ascent!!!
Patience! I can't work on this at the office, for obvious reasons.
In reply to: I only want to see pics if theres full frontal. (and not from Christa, either, although I'm sure she's got a nice...rack)
Hahahaha! I doubt you really mean that. Let's see, what do they say on the match-maker sites - a pic for a pic? Hahahaha!
GO
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climbingbetty22
Aug 4, 2005, 12:59 PM
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In reply to: Hahahaha! I doubt you really mean that. Let's see, what do they say on the match-maker sites - a pic for a pic? Hahahaha!
Haha! That's my Gabe, always trollin' :twisted:
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happiegrrrl
Aug 5, 2005, 3:53 PM
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I can't take it anymore - I have to announce it to the world!!!
On Sunday, I am going to pick up my brand new(very old), stylee dirtmobile!!! A grey, 1987 Toyota 4wd minivan, bought from another member on this site.
I have not had a car in almost 20 years, but man...those were the days. Road trips in my orange and black Sattelite Sebring. I am looking so forward to making lots of memories in this van.
Curt is coming up to visit me next week, and after we spend a couple days creating a microcamper, we are heading to the Gunks till 8/16. This is the first time I will really get a chance to explore the area too, and am looking forward to doing as much as can be done in such a short time.
Now....the big question......and I know this is a pretty big favor to ask....is for the lowdown on camp spots where one could park and have a little patch of land.......
I know about the MUA and Camp Slime, but man.....when we camp down where Curt is, in the Vanagon, it's so....luxe. We find a camp spot, pull over and set up a tent (a/k/a the "gear shed") and have it made. Even a solar shower..... Here, we're going to only have my little tent for storeage of all the crap that I insist must be part of the camping experience. We'll be dozing in the van. The idea of schlepping cookwear/food, and all the stuff back and forth....I suppose it will have to be done.
Unless......unless there is a better way.......
I am aware of the "other" place to camp, and will check into it. I understand there has been some brouhaha from the local ordinance-types, so I won't mention further in this post. I have the instructions as to the location, but don't know if they are still able to allow visitors. Any info, please PM rather than post, as I don't want cause dificulty for them.
And finally..... Yes, I am aware that I am asking to be exempt from the rules.....If anyone has any info, please PM me. If anyone wants to flame, please post in the thread. makes for fun reading, imo!
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shakylegs
Aug 5, 2005, 3:57 PM
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The "other" place? You're not talking about the barn, are you?
If not, never mind.
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