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maww
May 19, 2004, 4:24 PM
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Well I can't say I've had much in the way of accomplishments! I had my first experience on real rock this past Saturday and it kicked my butt! I didn't finish a 5.6 (I can do 5.9 in the gym). :?
I've only been climbing since March so I shouldn't be too hard on myself... but I was incredibly disappointed in my efforts! I have a terrible fear of heights and I made it to the crux and panicked. I didn't flip out or cry but mentally I couldn't shake the fear. Usually I can overcome it but not that day.
It hasn't deterred me though..if anything, I am that much more inclined to get back out there and tackle another route. I will probably start a little lower on the scale - like a 5.4 and send it. Then I will feel more confident I think.
It certainly is different on the rocks - soooo much better!!!! :D
But congrats to all of you - you are doing some great things! It's inspiring and motivational so I thank you. :)
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katydid
May 19, 2004, 5:07 PM
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Don't downplay your first time on real rock as not much of an accomplishment, because it is. It's a whole different ballgame than plastic. You went out there, gave it a go in spite of your fear of heights (that's a VERY big accomplishment, whether it feels like it or not), and decided to go another time even though you got scared.
Sounds like a pretty big accomplishment to me. :)
k.
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maww
May 19, 2004, 5:10 PM
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Thanks Katydid. You are right, it is an accomplishment.
Sometimes failures must come before victories I guess!! It's all part of the process I think. You gotta crawl before you can walk right?! :)
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keste
May 22, 2004, 1:57 AM
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My first anchor cleaning (2/26/4, Sexy Grandma, 5.9, Joshua Tree)!
My first free solo (4/24/4, 39 Steps, 5.4, Joshua Tree)!
My first outdoor sport lead (5/7/4, Technicolor Sunrise, 5.8, Red Rocks)!
My first free solo to free the rope (5/8/4, Foldout, 5.8, Red Rocks)!
My first anchor set (5/10/4, Bonaire, 5.9, Red Rocks)!
My first surprise outdoor lead fall (5/10/4, Bon Ez, 5.9 Red Rocks)!
My first bodyshot (5/15/4, Off my belly, Pelican Bar, Breezes, Jamaica)!
The past four weeks have seen a *HUGE* number of accomplishments for me! Sure, these are piddly things, but they make me feel like a USEFUL addition to a climbing group! Well, mebbe not the bodyshot! Hahahaha..
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debsanders
May 24, 2004, 2:58 AM
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No bodyshots, but I did get this sweet climb that I have dreamed of leading for two years and two months. It's in Texas at a place called Reimer's Ranch, where they filmed the ALAMO (I know nobody cares about the Alamo, but us Texans).
I have top roped the climb off and on for one year. In the past when we go to Reimers, I tell myself, today is the day to lead Prototype. I get to the area and there are people lined up to work the route, too many dogs, too many people, and/or screaming kids.
Well today was the day. There was a comp yesterday at the crag, so I figured if we got there early the hung over climbers wouldn't be up. The plan worked. My son and I were alone climbing for a good hour, doing warm ups before we saw anyone.
I got on top rope and worked out all the crux moves. Came down and upon my son's advice talked him through all the moves as he climbed; right hand to the crimper, left to shallow ledge, right to mini jug side pull, (trick from climbing team coach) Drew gave me some better beta and alternative moves for the tricky finish, then it was my turn.
I tied in and went from hold to hold with great confidence and sent the sucker. My first 5.10b/c lead. A dream come true.
It was an awesome feeling to get this climb that has been a part of my dreams and humiliation. The one thing that makes the climb even better is that my son got his project as well. His second 12a lead.
It was a great ride back to Dallas as we discussed our moves, technique, strategy and future projects.
Must try body shots . . .
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maww
May 24, 2004, 1:39 PM
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Congrats ladies!!! Those are great accomplishments. :)
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gipsy
May 26, 2004, 1:38 PM
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My latest accomplishment related to climbing? Being broken up with, getting in with new climbing partners, and remembering that climbing was something that I enjoyed immensely; it isn't about high numbers, grade chasing and pushing yourself so hard all the time that you resent time spent in your harness... this is a HUGE accomplishment for me...
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kimmyt
May 26, 2004, 3:29 PM
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first onsight...
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calamity_chk
May 26, 2004, 4:29 PM
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body shots rule.
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dancesonrocks
Jun 23, 2004, 4:45 AM
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Did my first sport lead 10a/b Flash!
The same day I also did my first sport 10 c/d Lead! 12 years in the making LOL! (though I obviously wasn't continuously climbing all that time).
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missedyno
Jun 23, 2004, 12:52 PM
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sweet! i'm slowly dragging my butt back onto 11's at the gym - i had a knee injury earlier in the year and have been getting my strength back soooo slowly since recovering.
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ecocliffchick
Jun 23, 2004, 1:49 PM
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I trusted a girl with very limited experience belaying leaders to belay me. I sometimes freak out on lead, so this is real evidence that I'm beginning to feel a bit more comfortable on the sharp end.
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dancesonrocks
Jun 23, 2004, 4:22 PM
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In reply to: sweet! i'm slowly dragging my butt back onto 11's at the gym - i had a knee injury earlier in the year and have been getting my strength back soooo slowly since recovering.
Yuck, sorry to hear you had a knee injury :( But glad to hear you're recovering enough to take on the 11s! I've finished only one 11 "cleanly" )(no falls, no rope rests) on top rope and hang dogged a few others but I'm not up to leading them just yet.
In reply to: I trusted a girl with very limited experience belaying leaders to belay me. I sometimes freak out on lead, so this is real evidence that I'm beginning to feel a bit more comfortable on the sharp end.
Congrats on being more comfortable on the sharp end! I tend to like experienced lead belayers too, especially if they are using a gri-gri since those can lock up on folks not used to paying out rope.
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mother_sheep
Jun 25, 2004, 4:44 AM
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I onsighted my first 10b tonight! I wanted it bad! With a hot guy on the ground cheering me on and my good friend Kira belaying me, it was destined to happen. AND the rock was wet! I love progress. I'm going to bed ohhhhh sooo happy tonight!
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dancesonrocks
Jun 25, 2004, 6:49 AM
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Yay mother sheep!!
Why was the rock wet?
And definitely yay progress! :)
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mother_sheep
Jun 25, 2004, 2:02 PM
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Thanks! It started raining pretty hard for about 45 minutes or so before we even made it to the approach. I was so amped to climb that I insisted that my partner and I hike out to the crag anyway in hopes that the rain would let up. I started up my first route of the night while it was still sprinkling. It was a slabby 5.9 but pretty featuresque so the rain was no bother. By the time I got down, the sky was clearing. But it rained a fair amount so most of the routes were pretty damp for the reamainder of the evening, including my 10b. I was so happy to be able to onsight it. I'm not a very good slab climber and this one was all slab, all crimps and the crux was this in your face buldge with nothing but crimpers. I had to forget about the fact that the rubber had softened in my shoes and that the rock was damp. I just listened to the voices of the people cheering me on and concentrated on just making the moves and I did it. I'm still happy.
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indigo_nite
Jun 28, 2004, 9:34 PM
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In reply to: I trusted a girl with very limited experience belaying leaders to belay me. I sometimes freak out on lead, so this is real evidence that I'm beginning to feel a bit more comfortable on the sharp end.
I've done this too but always seem to assume that I'm soloing in this type of situation.
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indigo_nite
Jun 28, 2004, 10:31 PM
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went back outdoors after a few months hiatus (tennis elbow)
noticed that the stuff I felt smooth on last season took a bit more mental effort. and was surprised that the stuff I was relatively challenged on when I was feeling considerably stronger last season, I was still able to get up (though did not attempt the lead yet).
impressed with the body/mind's ability to remember routes/motion over time (like memory of how to use certain holds at the crux). though it's more pertaining to someone I climbed w/, also amazed with the body's ability to heal...
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kbearchk
Jun 28, 2004, 10:55 PM
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I just did some climbs in AF Canyon that were 5.7 and 5.8. The 5.7 was my first lead climb and I'll have to admit I was nervous about being above the bolt. It is alot different than being top roped.
I also have a new CD out with the group I sing with. It's been a fun year traveling to Nashville and recording songs. We have performances all the time and it takes most of my free time.
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sarah
Jun 28, 2004, 11:12 PM
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Last week i onsight redpointed a 5.12b at Foster Falls. It was my first onsight above 5.11c :D
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caughtinside
Jun 29, 2004, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: Last week i onsight redpointed a 5.12b at Foster Falls. It was my first onsight above 5.11c :D
An onsight redpoint, huh? 8^)
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girlclimb
Jun 29, 2004, 7:24 PM
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i got to mock trad lead my first route this weekend at a woman's climbing weekend, it is amazing how much placing your own gear adds to the climing equation, good new was i didn't fall lol which means i would have been safe had it not been mock :)
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sarah
Jun 29, 2004, 11:44 PM
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i had my hands over my eyes
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sarah
Jun 29, 2004, 11:46 PM
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i meant the draws were there but i clipped them
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wa_hoo
Jun 30, 2004, 3:58 AM
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:D Finally lost my fear of heights. It feels so good. I boulder and went up really high outside where I was certain I wouldn't fall and it felt fabulous. Since then, I no longer get that sinking feeling in my stomach when I look down! I'm still cautious of course, but my caution seems appropriate now instead of blown up huge.
Now I'm excited to push my climbing more in the gym. It's held me back a lot in climbing harder routes after my feet are about 5' off the floor.
I need to practice dropping off 12-14' climbs to gain confidence in my landing skills, but I feel like I can do it now. I topped out on some easy stuff yesterday and had no problem looking down at the floor and around me to decide how to best top out.
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