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robbovius
Nov 5, 2008, 6:05 PM
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alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: robbovius wrote: 3. I've seen KNs handiwork at Farley. he's a douche, hands down. so i contributed money to the WMCC, since that seems like it might actually help the cause rather than blathering away ineffectually, (or, like you, DRUNKENLY AND INEFFECTUALLY, about the wrong thing) on some stupid online BBS. Just thought I'd point out that this post has clearly had an effect. Otherwise there wouldn't be 5 pages of responses in this short of time, and if you ignore posts like yours and pay attention to posts that actually discuss the topic you might be able to contribute something other than insults. But maybe that isn't why you post on this forum... Yeah, cause your OP was really a call for an intelligent conversation. ...and an object lesson in allowing minors access to alcohol.
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chossmonkey
Nov 5, 2008, 6:31 PM
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j_ung wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: Backpedaling is,.. um,.. Anyway, I'm not kissing ass, I just appreciate the idea of diversity, I like choices. He made a very valid point: j_ung wrote: Personally, I like some variety in my climbing. One day I might want a runout frightfest that tests my belayer almost as much as it tests me. On others I want to clip a bolt or two. The biggest mistake we as climbers can make, IMO, is to homogenize climbing one way or the other. When I lose the inclination and opportunity to customize my climbing as I see fit, it's probably time for me to hang it up. And since I don't really want to hang it up, I'll say I'm pretty happy to have some areas be closer to pristine and some not so much. I couldn't agree more. Thanks, but you're banzed anyway. I hereby impose a 2-second banz. That'll learn ya. WEKE!!!!
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chadnsc
Nov 5, 2008, 6:38 PM
Post #128 of 485
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Beta for the FA of 'your mom' A wide drooping crack that will accept a wide range of pro. Bring a few wide pieces (BD cams #4 and #5) to protect the crux. The crux is topping out a predominant ,overgrown bugle. You may find a beached wail move helpful.
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 6:45 PM
Post #129 of 485
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angry wrote: Here's the thing troll, peruse the accidents. All of them, gym, sport, bouldering, trad, mountains, etc. Now where do the most accidents happen? At the inaccessible super hard trad routes? Or on the easily accessible sport and gym routes? According to the accidents/deaths posted on this site so far for the year 2008: Traditional Climbing: 25 reports Sport Climbing: 8 reports Gym: 3 reports Rappelling: 14 reports Soloing: 8 reports God (avalanches, rockfall, etc): 4 reports Aid: 2 reports Top Roping: 1 report Alpine: 3 reports Ice Climbing: 4 reports Maybe it's due to less steps to make mistakes at in sport climbing. I guess the next question would be "How many people climb trad, compared to people who climb sport?" Does anyone know an answer to this? From reading these posts it seems operator error is the most common cause of accident/death.
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alleyehave
Nov 5, 2008, 7:00 PM
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: angry wrote: Here's the thing troll, peruse the accidents. All of them, gym, sport, bouldering, trad, mountains, etc. Now where do the most accidents happen? At the inaccessible super hard trad routes? Or on the easily accessible sport and gym routes? According to the accidents/deaths posted on this site so far for the year 2008: Traditional Climbing: 25 reports Sport Climbing: 8 reports Gym: 3 reports Rappelling: 14 reports Soloing: 8 reports God (avalanches, rockfall, etc): 4 reports Aid: 2 reports Top Roping: 1 report Alpine: 3 reports Ice Climbing: 4 reports Maybe it's due to less steps to make mistakes at in sport climbing. I guess the next question would be "How many people climb trad, compared to people who climb sport?" Does anyone know an answer to this? From reading these posts it seems operator error is the most common cause of accident/death. Dude, buy a stick clip and get over it.
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onceahardman
Nov 5, 2008, 7:03 PM
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In reply to: WTF, why you want to impose your views on someone else? I don't ask you to climb sport. Why the fuck do you think you should be telling others what to do. Seems to me that you suck at climbing faces so you find no use for bolts, which is fine for you, but keep it that way,... to yourself Your point of view is IDENTICAL to those who want to chip blank faces...or perhaps worse, it's more like wanting to chip established routes, because you don't want to make the necessary commitment. Maybe I should chip "midnight lightning"...why should kauk be so elitist as to use only certain holds? Everyone should have an equal chance to climb it. You want bolts, because bolts are easy and cheap for you. Build a wheelchair ramp to the top. Then everybody could do it. You have equal opportunity. You do NOT have equal skill and dedication.
(This post was edited by onceahardman on Nov 5, 2008, 7:05 PM)
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angry
Nov 5, 2008, 7:08 PM
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: angry wrote: Here's the thing troll, peruse the accidents. All of them, gym, sport, bouldering, trad, mountains, etc. Now where do the most accidents happen? At the inaccessible super hard trad routes? Or on the easily accessible sport and gym routes? According to the accidents/deaths posted on this site so far for the year 2008: Traditional Climbing: 25 reports Sport Climbing: 8 reports Gym: 3 reports Rappelling: 14 reports Soloing: 8 reports God (avalanches, rockfall, etc): 4 reports Aid: 2 reports Top Roping: 1 report Alpine: 3 reports Ice Climbing: 4 reports Maybe it's due to less steps to make mistakes at in sport climbing. I guess the next question would be "How many people climb trad, compared to people who climb sport?" Does anyone know an answer to this? From reading these posts it seems operator error is the most common cause of accident/death. And how many of those were from gear pulling out?
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 7:10 PM
Post #133 of 485
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onceahardman wrote: Your point of view is IDENTICAL to those who want to chip blank faces...or perhaps worse, it's more like wanting to chip established routes, because you don't want to make the necessary commitment. I would never do such a thing.
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 7:11 PM
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About 5-6 were from placement pulling. On the other hand, there was only one report of a bolt breaking.
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alleyehave
Nov 5, 2008, 7:12 PM
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: About 5-6 were from placement pulling. On the other hand, there was only one report of a bolt breaking. I'm waiting for the triumphant introduction of your point.
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 7:16 PM
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alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: About 5-6 were from placement pulling. On the other hand, there was only one report of a bolt breaking. I'm waiting for the triumphant introduction of your point. Read more of the thread then....
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majid_sabet
Nov 5, 2008, 7:16 PM
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: WTF, why you want to impose your views on someone else? I don't ask you to climb sport. Why the fuck do you think you should be telling others what to do. Seems to me that you suck at climbing faces so you find no use for bolts, which is fine for you, but keep it that way,... to yourself. BTW, I hope more people bolt cracks, you rich fucks can fuck yourselves with all your cams, most of us, especially given the times, can't afford a full trad rack. I would love to be able to climb cracks that were bolted, but you fucks have to make it just one more thing that is elitist, I hope BD fucks up and kills you all with a hellacious defect or some shit. One more thing, I am trying to get a trad rack together, the point is that there is no reason everyone should have to get a full rack in order to climb crack. Do not worry my son OBAMA will raise the minimum wage then you can buy some real cams and do some real climbing
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alleyehave
Nov 5, 2008, 7:20 PM
Post #138 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: About 5-6 were from placement pulling. On the other hand, there was only one report of a bolt breaking. I'm waiting for the triumphant introduction of your point. Read more of the thread then.... I've read it all. Your point is still missing an introduction as well as triumph.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Nov 5, 2008, 7:24 PM
Post #139 of 485
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alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: About 5-6 were from placement pulling. On the other hand, there was only one report of a bolt breaking. I'm waiting for the triumphant introduction of your point. Read more of the thread then.... I've read it all. Your point is still missing an introduction as well as triumph. This is correct.
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 7:26 PM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: About 5-6 were from placement pulling. On the other hand, there was only one report of a bolt breaking. I'm waiting for the triumphant introduction of your point. Read more of the thread then.... I've read it all. Your point is still missing an introduction as well as triumph. This is correct. ok
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irregularpanda
Nov 5, 2008, 7:30 PM
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: onceahardman wrote: Your point of view is IDENTICAL to those who want to chip blank faces...or perhaps worse, it's more like wanting to chip established routes, because you don't want to make the necessary commitment. I would never do such a thing. Then don't bolt cracks. Seriously, if you do, I'll duct-tape you to the flagpole.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Nov 5, 2008, 7:37 PM
Post #142 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: onceahardman wrote: Your point of view is IDENTICAL to those who want to chip blank faces...or perhaps worse, it's more like wanting to chip established routes, because you don't want to make the necessary commitment. I would never do such a thing. Why not? If you owned the property, you would be free to move the rock as you see fit. Make it harder / easier / safer / riskier / steeper / cripier / whatever. Go for it.
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jeepnphreak
Nov 5, 2008, 7:38 PM
Post #143 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: WTF, why you want to impose your views on someone else? I don't ask you to climb sport. Why the fuck do you think you should be telling others what to do. Seems to me that you suck at climbing faces so you find no use for bolts, which is fine for you, but keep it that way,... to yourself. BTW, I hope more people bolt cracks, you rich fucks can fuck yourselves with all your cams, most of us, especially given the times, can't afford a full trad rack. I would love to be able to climb cracks that were bolted, but you fucks have to make it just one more thing that is elitist, I hope BD fucks up and kills you all with a hellacious defect or some shit. One more thing, I am trying to get a trad rack together, the point is that there is no reason everyone should have to get a full rack in order to climb crack. Iam a poor broke bolt junkie, and Yes I get to trad climb some times. How may you ask? simple, there are lot of people that want climbing partners, some evan have racks that they are willing to share for a day... ah ha just find a local gear head (there tons out there) to take you up away form the bolts. As you get $$ and time piece together your rack and after a few months or so, you can have you very own rack to take to the craig and join the elitist asshole club too. Or after trading take them sport climbing and watch them take whippers and bitch about how they need pro and the next bolt is still 10' above
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southswell
Nov 5, 2008, 7:46 PM
Post #144 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: you rich fucks can fuck yourselves with all your cams I doubt I could fit more that a couple #1s
HappinessIsWinning wrote: WTF, why you want to impose your views on someone else? Isnt that what your doing with this thread?
HappinessIsWinning wrote: I hope BD fucks up and kills you all with a hellacious defect or some shit Wishing death on fellow climbers is no bueno. Ever heard of Kharma? Climbing after spewing horseshit like that could be very very dangerous. See here: http://video.yahoo.com/watch/505484/2665630
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Nov 5, 2008, 7:46 PM
Post #145 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: angry wrote: Here's the thing troll, peruse the accidents. All of them, gym, sport, bouldering, trad, mountains, etc. Now where do the most accidents happen? At the inaccessible super hard trad routes? Or on the easily accessible sport and gym routes? According to the accidents/deaths posted on this site so far for the year 2008: Traditional Climbing: 25 reports Sport Climbing: 8 reports Gym: 3 reports Rappelling: 14 reports Soloing: 8 reports God (avalanches, rockfall, etc): 4 reports Aid: 2 reports Top Roping: 1 report Alpine: 3 reports Ice Climbing: 4 reports Maybe it's due to less steps to make mistakes at in sport climbing. I guess the next question would be "How many people climb trad, compared to people who climb sport?" Does anyone know an answer to this? From reading these posts it seems operator error is the most common cause of accident/death. Nice research. Meaningless, but nice. Risk is only meaningful when compared with frequency. It isn’t rocket science - now that is dangerous. (http://www.penmachine.com/...t-dangerous-job.html)
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 7:47 PM
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alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: alleyehave wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: About 5-6 were from placement pulling. On the other hand, there was only one report of a bolt breaking. I'm waiting for the triumphant introduction of your point. Read more of the thread then.... I've read it all. Your point is still missing an introduction as well as triumph. HappinessIsWinning wrote: why you want to impose your views on someone else? I don't ask you to climb sport. Why the fuck do you think you should be telling others what to do. Oh yeah, I don't want to climb trad near as much as I want to climb cracks. I could care less how I'm protecting myself, so long as it's solid, I just want to climb different types of rock. No one has a right to be elitist.... I agree with the idea of preserving the rock in it's natural state, but couldn't we just create better guidelines/standards for bolting? Paint the hangers to match, use glue-in's, use existing holes whenever possible... I understand the need for preservation, especially with particularly chossy areas. Garden of The Gods in Colorado Springs is a good example of bolting gone bad. The rock is mangled in spots. I understand prohibiting bolting in areas like this. There are however lots of areas with very solid rock where if you put painted hangers/glue-ins in the rock, you wouldn't see them unless right next to them. I commonly find lines that you can't protect or TR, that would actually make great routes. Only thing stopping me is people who think trad climbing is the only way we should be able to climb. I am for equal access, if we have the technology to make climbing safer and more accessible to people then why not use it. Just because some dinosaur had to run his pieces out 20 feet doesn't mean I should have to. All the time on this forum people want to go and talk about "learn this/that from this/that accident/death" Why not take measures to make this sport as safe as possible? And as far as climbing bolted crack,... I can get that done at Shelf Road. I just appreciate the idea of diversity, I like choices. He made a very valid point: j_ung wrote: Personally, I like some variety in my climbing. One day I might want a runout frightfest that tests my belayer almost as much as it tests me. On others I want to clip a bolt or two. The biggest mistake we as climbers can make, IMO, is to homogenize climbing one way or the other. When I lose the inclination and opportunity to customize my climbing as I see fit, it's probably time for me to hang it up. And since I don't really want to hang it up, I'll say I'm pretty happy to have some areas be closer to pristine and some not so much. I couldn't agree more. I would only put up bolts on new routes (with proper research into ethics/regulation) or to replace old/outdated hardware on existing routes (once again talking to the people who are currently in charge of that for the area). I would never bolt a crack. According to the accidents/deaths posted on this site so far for the year 2008: Traditional Climbing: 25 reports Sport Climbing: 8 reports Gym: 3 reports Rappelling: 14 reports Soloing: 8 reports God (avalanches, rockfall, etc): 4 reports Aid: 2 reports Top Roping: 1 report Alpine: 3 reports Ice Climbing: 4 reports Maybe it's due to less steps to make mistakes at in sport climbing. I guess the next question would be "How many people climb trad, compared to people who climb sport?" Does anyone know an answer to this? From reading these posts it seems operator error is the most common cause of accident/death. WHOO HOO Obama WON!!!!! This is basically what I intended to say. If you don't like it then don't read it. If you don't get it, try reading it again, perhaps it will hit you eventually. Have fun climbing, and be safe.
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curt
Nov 5, 2008, 7:50 PM
Post #147 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: angry wrote: Here's the thing troll, peruse the accidents. All of them, gym, sport, bouldering, trad, mountains, etc. Now where do the most accidents happen? At the inaccessible super hard trad routes? Or on the easily accessible sport and gym routes? According to the accidents/deaths posted on this site so far for the year 2008: Traditional Climbing: 25 reports Sport Climbing: 8 reports Gym: 3 reports Rappelling: 14 reports Soloing: 8 reports God (avalanches, rockfall, etc): 4 reports Aid: 2 reports Top Roping: 1 report Alpine: 3 reports Ice Climbing: 4 reports Maybe it's due to less steps to make mistakes at in sport climbing. I guess the next question would be "How many people climb trad, compared to people who climb sport?" Does anyone know an answer to this? From reading these posts it seems operator error is the most common cause of accident/death. Or, maybe it's due to an increasing number of people learning to climb at gyms and sportcrags who then go out and try to climb trad--which, unlike those two activities, actually requires some talent and judgment. Curt
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irregularpanda
Nov 5, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #149 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: This is basically what I intended to say. If you don't like it then don't read it. If you don't get it, try reading it again, perhaps it will hit you eventually. Have fun climbing, and be safe. Did you get it yet? Don't bolt cracks, or the tribe will jump you, and beat you savagely. I offer you a challenge, before you bolt cracks, learn to climb trad for at least 3 years. BTW, you don't need to own a rack to accomplish this, just climb with other people.
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knieveltech
Nov 5, 2008, 8:03 PM
Post #150 of 485
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irregularpanda wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: This is basically what I intended to say. If you don't like it then don't read it. If you don't get it, try reading it again, perhaps it will hit you eventually. Have fun climbing, and be safe. Did you get it yet? Don't bolt cracks, or the tribe will jump you, and beat you savagely. I offer you a challenge, before you bolt cracks, learn to climb trad for at least 3 years. BTW, you don't need to own a rack to accomplish this, just climb with other people. ^^^^ Lame. Ignore this advice. I suggest you immediately start bolting cracks anywhere in Wyoming in front of as many of the locals as possible. Carry on.
(This post was edited by knieveltech on Nov 5, 2008, 8:04 PM)
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