|
orangekyak
Aug 11, 2009, 3:16 AM
Post #21976 of 22774
(4003 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 1832
|
Yo if you go to red rock don't miss ray's picture. Walk past the gully to another small slab. There's a mini zipper that is a ton of fun. It goes 5.10, but not until the top. It's a worthwhile endeavor after your newbie buds try zipper and toe jam. TR setup requires lots of webbing or long runners. Lead requires brass spheres, friction, balance, and a good belay.
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Aug 11, 2009, 3:20 AM
Post #21977 of 22774
(4002 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
I've TR'd that baby a few times...the top is some burly slab climbing. I have yet to work up the nerve to lead it though. Thanks for the suggestion!
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 11, 2009, 4:08 AM
Post #21978 of 22774
(3998 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
orangekyak wrote: Yo if you go to red rock don't miss ray's picture. Walk past the gully to another small slab. There's a mini zipper that is a ton of fun. It goes 5.10, but not until the top. It's a worthwhile endeavor after your newbie buds try zipper and toe jam. TR setup requires lots of webbing or long runners. Lead requires brass spheres, friction, balance, and a good belay. I remember that route! caught a few of your falls if i'm correct. really shitty greasy foot nub at the top right? zipper was fun "jake now that you're past the crux you wanna place some gear?" ;)
|
|
|
|
|
dudemanbu
Aug 11, 2009, 9:00 PM
Post #21979 of 22774
(3982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2005
Posts: 941
|
Antin, if you're really worried about not having enough climbs under 5.8, you can just do the biggest wall at hammond pond with your noob friend. It's not too intimidating for beginners and I think the hardest line on it is only 5.9.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Aug 12, 2009, 3:55 PM
Post #21980 of 22774
(3952 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
AntinJ wrote: Good stuff guys - as usual thanks for the insight. I think Red Rock offers a more 'outdoorsy' experience, but aside from Zipper 5.6 and Toe Jams 5.5, there are not too many beginner options, I think the Quincy Quarries will be my best choice. And I'll definitely have to go check out "Six Pack" soon; it looks like fun. Greg - great Cannon story, we were up on the WG this past Friday with the showers and it was an awesome experience! ~ especially when a free soloist cruised past us on the pipe pitch wearing a full rack and interior frame pack! I've been dying to get on the The Grape, and especially Reppy's since I first heard about it - Thanks for a terrific, detailed adventure summary. Thanks man. I appreciate it. Despite my hatred for crack (well, at least for hand / fist cracks, as I'm leaving open the possibility of finger cracks ), I can totally see why folks love Reppy's. I think I just have small hands. Yeah, rain on WG, no thanks. Been there done that. Would not, under and circumstances, feel intimidated by a soloist in that situation either. All I'd want to do is get the hell off!
|
|
|
|
|
CRod2487
Aug 14, 2009, 8:29 PM
Post #21981 of 22774
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 14, 2009
Posts: 1
|
Hey I have been lurking for a few days here reading some of the newer posts on this thread. Im located in the New Bedford area and looking to get into climbing. Have no clue how to really go about the outdoor side of it. Also I'm not really interested with indoor but don't know if I need to get a belayer's certificate or not? Any help, advice or direction pointing would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Curt
|
|
|
|
|
ClimbClimb
Aug 14, 2009, 10:15 PM
Post #21982 of 22774
(3898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 389
|
Rumney (& really all other Mass.) weather looks great this weekend. I think I may need a partner. Hmm.
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Aug 14, 2009, 11:40 PM
Post #21983 of 22774
(3896 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
Curt, If you get the basics down (belaying, general safety, familiarity of basic gear, etc..) it will be easier to link up with people and partners to go climb outdoors. I found some of the local outdoor programs like the AMC to be quite helpful in learning the basics. You also have a pretty good rock gym near by, (Carabiners?), it's probably worth a few visits. You can also get a copy of the local guidebook (Boston Rocks) and go boulder/check out some of the Boston areas by yourself if you're really itching to get on the rocks - I found that to be a good intro and you don't need a climbing partner at first. Good luck, Jason
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Aug 14, 2009, 11:41 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 19, 2009, 2:37 PM
Post #21984 of 22774
(3800 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
I scored a rope-solo onlsight at Purgatory Chasm last night, of a route I've never seen anyone on. its not in Boston Rocks (as far as I recall) and as is usual fro me, looked a shitload easier from the ground. Additionally, its quite possibly the single dirtiest climb I've ever attempted, without actually intending to roll round in filth. IN fact, this morning at my desk I discovered that my left ear still had a nice layer of dirt inside it, missed over two showers. yum. The climb is in the Lovers Leap area, on the south side of the chasm accross from the Charon 5.5., and follows the big right-angling ledge accross and up the face to the relatively easy dihedral finish of the .11 route which name I can't recall, that's directly accross from Paradise Lost 5.8. while not exactly classic, I found the route had its own charm, with a couple commiting moves. I felt there were 2 cruxes, and it protected relatively well (maybe a PG piece or two, tricams work well, lotsa horizontals) and a grade of about 5.5. Its one of the longer routes at purgatory, about 60-70 feet, from start to the belay at the tree. you could even break it up into two pitches, and play mulitpitch on it, setting up a P2 belay on the main ledge. If you're interested: start on some boulders at a blocky dihedral, just left of the big lower overhang, and do an easy-ish boulder move up to a large ledge. step wide out right around the arrete on good feet but sequency smallish hands (crux 1) and achieve the big main ledge. step easily along the main ledge for about 15 feet with bomber full hands (its easy, but dont forget to protect your second) step up onto the steeper second ramp above the big horizontal crack. bang on the flake, and enjoy the hollow sound. work your way up the outwardly sloping slabby ramp on smeared feet and awkward, sketchy low hands. rubbing your shoulder along the overhanging wall to your left ensures a dirt shower. at the end of the ramp, stem accross the dihedral (crux 2) using small feet and more sketchy hands. here, I felt a bit exposed, - the ramp bulges up a little and then slopes away more steeply outward. combined with the wall overhanging and pushing you away...brrrr, excitement! - thru the stem, finish up the easier blocky dihedral to the tree. belay from the tree, and then for fun do the mostly free-hanging rappell back to the ground. enjoy!
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 19, 2009, 2:44 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 19, 2009, 2:43 PM
Post #21985 of 22774
(3792 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Rob.. heads up for possible rumney action Sept 5,6,7 labor day weekend.
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 19, 2009, 2:45 PM
Post #21986 of 22774
(3790 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Groovy man, I'll talk to Pam.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 19, 2009, 4:46 PM
Post #21987 of 22774
(3779 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Possibly the weekend after if i can't get my brother to watch the dogs
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
Aug 21, 2009, 1:25 AM
Post #21988 of 22774
(3749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
Rob, Good on ya! for getting out and git'r'dun! Jason, nice meeting you today. Great effort on CroMag. If only I had your determination I might not climb like a tired old man. Chris if perchance you are looking at this thread nice lead on CroMag. Super steady! Lousy forecast for the weekend, but take heart everyone the best climbing season of the year is soon upon us!!! Sunshine, cool temps and low humidity are just around the corner! Bill
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Aug 21, 2009, 10:18 AM
Post #21989 of 22774
(3741 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
Bill - great meeting you as well! I finally TR'd that sucker clean just before we left for the day. Chris and I also climbed “Thin Line” – another terrific route. (For the record, there is still 1 pin left) See you around the Hill, Jason
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
Aug 21, 2009, 12:24 PM
Post #21990 of 22774
(3735 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
The pin that is missing was in the thin crack beneath the chockstone. The moves to step up to the upper pin are protectable but the gear is "finicky". You can't be casual about placing it. If one was going to go missing I would have chosen the upper one. The horizontal it is in takes solid small cams.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Aug 21, 2009, 2:50 PM
Post #21992 of 22774
(3721 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
losbill wrote: If one was going to go missing I would have chosen the upper one. The horizontal it is in takes solid small cams. Agreed. Those pins have come and gone regularly for years. But I'll admit that I have never led it without at least 2 - the first time I did lead it, 30+ years ago, there were ~5 pins. Oh well - time to man up and do it without I guess.
|
|
|
|
|
mnatti
Aug 22, 2009, 3:09 PM
Post #21993 of 22774
(4136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 7, 2005
Posts: 31
|
For those interested, I was up at Red Rocks the other day and there are a number of new TR anchors for most of the lines on Main Wall and the Pink Floyd Wall. This not only opens up a number of hard to TR lines (including quite a few easy ones) but also gives the poor trees a bit of a rest! Talk amongst yourselves.
(This post was edited by mnatti on Aug 22, 2009, 3:11 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Aug 22, 2009, 3:26 PM
Post #21994 of 22774
(4133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
mnatti wrote: For those interested, I was up at Red Rocks the other day and there are a number of new TR anchors for most of the lines on Main Wall and the Pink Floyd Wall. This not only opens up a number of hard to TR lines (including quite a few easy ones) but also gives the poor trees a bit of a rest! Talk amongst yourselves. With all the chopped bolts up there I wonder how long they'll last. Still, yeah, I'm glad the trees aren't being used anymore.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Aug 25, 2009, 2:51 PM
Post #21995 of 22774
(4091 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
mnatti wrote: For those interested, I was up at Red Rocks the other day and there are a number of new TR anchors for most of the lines on Main Wall and the Pink Floyd Wall. This not only opens up a number of hard to TR lines (including quite a few easy ones) but also gives the poor trees a bit of a rest! Talk amongst yourselves. Which has created a stir amongst the local climbing community on the north shore. Whoever did it, did NOT get the support of the community. I would be very surprised if they stayed. ANd it's NOT just toprope anchors. I would have less of a problem if that's all it was. They also cut down trees and put in lead bolts. On one climb, it looked like there was ONE bolt. A 20-25 route and you put in ONE bolt so it can be lead? WTF? Josh
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Aug 25, 2009, 3:12 PM
Post #21996 of 22774
(4085 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: mnatti wrote: For those interested, I was up at Red Rocks the other day and there are a number of new TR anchors for most of the lines on Main Wall and the Pink Floyd Wall. This not only opens up a number of hard to TR lines (including quite a few easy ones) but also gives the poor trees a bit of a rest! Talk amongst yourselves. Which has created a stir amongst the local climbing community on the north shore. Whoever did it, did NOT get the support of the community. I would be very surprised if they stayed. ANd it's NOT just toprope anchors. I would have less of a problem if that's all it was. They also cut down trees and put in lead bolts. On one climb, it looked like there was ONE bolt. A 20-25 route and you put in ONE bolt so it can be lead? WTF? Josh hmmm...knowing this, it now sounds a bit less productive.
|
|
|
|
|
mnatti
Aug 26, 2009, 3:08 AM
Post #21997 of 22774
(4064 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 7, 2005
Posts: 31
|
Ahhh.... consulting the "community." It's funny that gets brought up. Who actually is the community? Aren't we all, as users of the crag, the community? I have been climbing at Red Rocks for over 15 years and I've lived in or around Gloucester most of my life. I think the recent modifications at the crag are a big improvement and from what I've over heard most people saying at the crag in the past couple of weeks, the masses agree. Over the years, most folks I've talked to up there (the community?) have repeated a concern for the health of the trees at the tops of the crag, a desire to be able to lead more lines (both by having top anchors to rap off and having/ replacing bolts on current TR lines) as well as having TR set-ups that don't require 40 foot slings. Sadly, the question of bolts at Red Rock has a long, checkered history but it seems to me that the ones against them are actually in the minority. This weekend I was talking to a group from Boston's AMC while they were using some of the new bolts. They were saying that until that day, there had been discussions with the club to put new anchors in themselves. They were happy to see it was already done. Though I do understand there are some folks out there who never used bolts there in the past, so feel they are unnecessary. I feel that at a crag with as much traffic as Red Rocks, they serve a valuable purpose. As for the newly bolted lines, if one looked closer they would see that the first bolts (just the hangers) were actually stolen, so in fact there was no single bolt death line. I'm not sure how long after the bolts were put in this happened, but I guess it was less than a week. I did meet the party involved in removing them, he said he was "making a statement about preserving the original nature of the crag." I have mixed feelings on this sentiment. I can see some would want to hold on to the original nature of a climb/ climbing area. My contention to this is if a) there is no written history available for the masses to know what has been lead in the past and by who and b) the first non-TR ascent was done on dodgy or no gear! At a crag like Red Rocks, which is typically a training ground for newcomers to the sport and recreational climbers, I doubt there are a lot of people who would still want to lead a 30 foot 5.10+ on 2 RPs! An old forgotten line which only receives an occasional TR could be better suited with bolts to spread out congestion and improve the over-all usability of the crag. I do believe, however that when details about the first ascentionist are available, permission should be sought before bolts are added to the actual climb (TR anchors are different as that they don't affect the nature of the climb as much). As for trees being cut... there isn't a crag in New England that hasn't had a few trees cut down around it (including Red Rock, on many previous occasions) to make access to climbs better and/ or allowing them to dry quicker and stay cleaner. Furthermore, it seems most of the trees that were cut were already dead. I suppose it is all about perception and personal beliefs but I think the work done up there benefited all users of the crag as a whole. Perhaps in the future, to avoid similar communication issues, a North Shore climbing group could be formed... something like the W. Mass Climbing Coalition? It would not only be a good way to reach real consensus on crag renovations/ restorations but also for maintaining access to areas and working to open/ re-open other areas?
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Aug 26, 2009, 1:56 PM
Post #21998 of 22774
(4053 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
mnatti wrote: Ahhh.... consulting the "community." It's funny that gets brought up. Who actually is the community? In that case, I think I'll go bolt the Gunks.
In reply to: Aren't we all, as users of the crag, the community? I have been climbing at Red Rocks for over 15 years and I've lived in or around Gloucester most of my life. That absolutely makes you part of the community, but does that mean you can do whatever you want?
In reply to: I think the recent modifications at the crag are a big improvement and from what I've over heard most people saying at the crag in the past couple of weeks, the masses agree. Who are these masses? Summer camps? n00bs who don't know who to set up topropes without bolts?
In reply to: Over the years, most folks I've talked to up there (the community?) have repeated a concern for the health of the trees at the tops of the crag, a desire to be able to lead more lines (both by having top anchors to rap off and having/ replacing bolts on current TR lines) as well as having TR set-ups that don't require 40 foot slings. Out of all that, the only legitimate concern is the health of the trees.
In reply to: Sadly, the question of bolts at Red Rock has a long, checkered history but it seems to me that the ones against them are actually in the minority. I am not against bolts, but I do believe that every effort should be taken to make sure it's the right thing to do, whether that be contacting area locals (not summer camp leaders, which I actually am one, but actual local climbers), contacting FAists if possible and known. A lot of times climbs are just fine as topropes, especially at a crag that a majority of the climbers are going to do just that.
In reply to: This weekend I was talking to a group from Boston's AMC while they were using some of the new bolts. They were saying that until that day, there had been discussions with the club to put new anchors in themselves. They were happy to see it was already done. Though I do understand there are some folks out there who never used bolts there in the past, so feel they are unnecessary. I feel that at a crag with as much traffic as Red Rocks, they serve a valuable purpose. fair enough.
In reply to: As for the newly bolted lines, if one looked closer they would see that the first bolts (just the hangers) were actually stolen, so in fact there was no single bolt death line. I'm not sure how long after the bolts were put in this happened, but I guess it was less than a week. I did meet the party involved in removing them, he said he was "making a statement about preserving the original nature of the crag." I would like to state for the record that it wasn't me.
In reply to: I have mixed feelings on this sentiment. I can see some would want to hold on to the original nature of a climb/ climbing area. Look, I don't believe in bolt chopping, either.....ever! Which is why I believe that there needs to be a process before bolts go in. I was under the impression (which could be wrong) that no such effort was made.
In reply to: My contention to this is if a) there is no written history available for the masses to know what has been lead in the past and by who and b) the first non-TR ascent was done on dodgy or no gear! At a crag like Red Rocks, which is typically a training ground for newcomers to the sport and recreational climbers, I doubt there are a lot of people who would still want to lead a 30 foot 5.10+ on 2 RPs! An old forgotten line which only receives an occasional TR could be better suited with bolts to spread out congestion and improve the over-all usability of the crag. How much more traffic do you really expect that to generate. Red Rocks is mainly a beginners crag and a nice place for locals to go after work. It is NOT a destination crag. I am certainly not going to go out of my way to go climb these newly bolted routes.
In reply to: I do believe, however that when details about the first ascentionist are available, permission should be sought before bolts are added to the actual climb (TR anchors are different as that they don't affect the nature of the climb as much). So we are in agreement here. Was an effort made?
In reply to: As for trees being cut... there isn't a crag in New England that hasn't had a few trees cut down around it (including Red Rock, on many previous occasions) to make access to climbs better and/ or allowing them to dry quicker and stay cleaner. Furthermore, it seems most of the trees that were cut were already dead. I suppose it is all about perception and personal beliefs but I think the work done up there benefited all users of the crag as a whole. Perhaps in the future, to avoid similar communication issues, a North Shore climbing group could be formed... something like the W. Mass Climbing Coalition? It would not only be a good way to reach real consensus on crag renovations/ restorations but also for maintaining access to areas and working to open/ re-open other areas? Ok. Agreed here. If the trees were in fact dead, then that's fine. And I realize that intense cleaning goes on at every crag, but there is a fine line between preserving the environment and catering to the selfish needs of a climber. I am not saying that line was crossed, just questioning it. Cheers, Josh
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Aug 26, 2009, 2:19 PM
Post #21999 of 22774
(4052 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
I'm just curious, but were you the person that put up the bolts?
mnatti wrote: As for trees being cut... there isn't a crag in New England that hasn't had a few trees cut down around it (including Red Rock, on many previous occasions) to make access to climbs better and/ or allowing them to dry quicker and stay cleaner. What makes it okay for someone to decide to cut down the trees in a place where bolts have a history of being immediately removed? I remember years back someone placed bolts there that were immediately chopped. Seems to me that this practice is going to make for a worse climbing experience at Red Rocks.
mnatti wrote: Furthermore, it seems most of the trees that were cut were already dead. I'd feel a lot better if all of the cut trees were dead! Now we're short on bolts and trees. Who wins here?
|
|
|
|
|
pbgill
Aug 27, 2009, 5:05 PM
Post #22000 of 22774
(5991 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2009
Posts: 5
|
On Saturday, September 26 join us in Wendell State Forest, in Wendell, MA for our biggest fundraiser yet! It's a day long celebration featuring food, crag tours (Farley - Mormon - Rose Ledge), gear raffles, climbing competitions, REEL ROCK Tour film, top rope climbing at Rose Ledge, on site kid climbing, clinics and more! Free parking and camping available all in beautiful Wendell State Forest. Tickets: $20 in advance - $25 Day of event More info here: http://www.westernmacc.com/index.htm
|
|
|
|
|
|