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stevematthys
Dec 16, 2002, 12:02 AM
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What was the first trad route you ever did and what gear did you have with you?
Mine was the day Sparky and I climbed Calypso, in Eldorado Canyon. We climbed all three pitches with only one set of stoppers, one set of hexes, a couple slings, and a guide book. View Picture
[ This Message was edited by: stevematthys on 2002-12-15 16:03 ]
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repete
Dec 16, 2002, 1:23 AM
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Mine was Thias 5.5 at seneca rocks. well atleast thats what i was trying to climb but i got off route onto thias direst 5.7 and almost took a whiper just below the plesent overhangs roof. that was scary $#!& cuz it was also my partner's first trad route. we were in way over our heads, i was 16 at the time.
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fachri220
Dec 16, 2002, 2:00 AM
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I climbed it in 1990, my first trad route was only a 12m-height subvertical crack in Ciampea, Indonesia, with only 1 set of stoppers.
I don't think it can be classified as 'a route'.
But what makes my 1st trad route special for me is because it was my first climbing.
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brutusofwyde
Dec 16, 2002, 2:31 AM
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My first trad route was "Underpass" on Intersection Rock in Josh. Equipment included 120 feet of 9/16" Goldline rope. I protected the crux of the first pitch with a 1.5" angle piton.
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
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dlintz
Dec 16, 2002, 2:31 AM
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My first trad route was Wind Ridge in Eldo about a month ago. We did the first 2 pitches and used only 1 large nut, the rest was cams.
My first trad lead was later that day on the North Face of the Matron. Good stuff.
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flamer
Dec 16, 2002, 2:49 AM
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The 3rd Flat Iron! I talked some guy at my dorm(he had a harness) into going "climbing" with me! I had a set of nuts, hex's, and tricams. 4 runners 6QD's. We got to the base at like 2PM. got back to the car at 11PM! No headlamps- a wicked lightning storm, and a pissed off girlfriend when I got home! That guy gave me his harness and Quite climbing...I went back a couple years later and went cartocar in 60:46! Still one of my favorites!
josh
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agentoffortune
Dec 16, 2002, 3:24 AM
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My first was at Sunset Park in Chattanooga. I have no idea what it is called nor do I know what it was rated but if I had to rate it, I would say it was a 5.5 or 5.6. I brought a set of nuts, a few tricams, and about a half dozen cams ranging from .75 to 4.
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neph
Dec 16, 2002, 3:47 AM
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I think my first trad lead was the East Slab on the Dome in Boulder Canyon.
Actually, I think that was the route I did the first time I climbed outdoors, and probably the route that I have climbed the most times.
My second trad lead was some sandbagged ("yeah, its like a 6 or something.. you can do it..") 5.7 offwidth that scared the pi$$ out of me..
lots of fun..
-Nate
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farmerc
Dec 16, 2002, 3:48 AM
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My first lead was Witches brew at Chickies Rock in Columbia, PA. Its a decent 5.3 (seems like an oxymoron...) that can be done in one or two pitches(w/ a 60m rope) i did it in one to avoid setting up an anchor midway
~Chris
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kalcario
Dec 16, 2002, 4:00 AM
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Route 1: Bolt ladder at Stony Point 1975
Route 2: Harry Daley, 2 pitch 5.8 Glacier Point 1976
Route 3:Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome 1976
I have always wondered if this is some sort of record...
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blindslap
Dec 16, 2002, 4:02 AM
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my first trad lead was a dihdreal (sp?) in the dead snag area in big cottonwood canyon. It was a 5.6 and i led it with just two and a half sets of stoppers. Set up all the anchors and led everything with just nuts. it was pretty runout but i was comfartable with the climbing. On the second pitch i ran out of biners and quickdraws so the anchor took a little imagination.
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briang
Dec 16, 2002, 3:36 PM
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my first lead was the second pitch of bedtime for bonzo(5.6) at the red river gorge sometime this past summer. though the pitch was relatively short it was definitely intensified when it started raining. but dont worry, me being the hardass i am pulled through it. thinking back, i think i placed 4 or 5 pieces, nuts and cams, but was carrying just about the entire rack of my partners. man i looked cool
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rrrADAM
Dec 16, 2002, 3:49 PM
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First Trad climb followed was Open Book 5.9 at Tahquitz, Ca.
First Trad climb led was Red Cabbage 5.9 at The Gunks. Thought since I climbed solid .10c Sport at the time, I would warm up on a 5.9... Bad choice !!! I was in fear of my life, and barely pulled it off. Thank God it was only a 30' climb, as this allowed me to fumble my way up and get a very "out of control onsight". I quickly decided that .6's were what I should start out at to get proficient and setting pro.
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vegastradguy
Dec 16, 2002, 4:09 PM
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my first trad follow was Froglands @ Red Rocks. Nice little 5.8ish climb.
my first trad lead was 6 of 9 pitches of Crimson Chrysalis, all of which were either 5.7 or 5.8. I was carrying both mine and my partners rack, which I believe was 19 cams (double set of BD .5-3, some metoulius, and a small Alien) and 2 sets of stoppers.
ahhh, memories.
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climblouisiana
Dec 16, 2002, 5:11 PM
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First one I lead was R-1 at Rupley towers on Mt. Lemmon.
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veilneb
Dec 16, 2002, 5:17 PM
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Ahh, the first.
Mine was pitch 3 of High Exposure (5.6+) at the Gunks.
All I can say is scary (for a first lead). My partner and I had a problem with communication. Apparently he didn't realize I had never led trad before. Got to the top though. Fantastic climb!
V
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mreardon
Dec 16, 2002, 7:55 PM
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"Whodunnit" (5.9). I was brought to this 10 pitch classic at Tahquitz after I had been climbing for 3 weeks. My partner at the time tbought it would be a kick to scare the hell out of me when he heard I was scared of heights. So there I was, oversized used Fires on my feet, swami wrapped around my waist, bright pink zebra striped tights glowing in the morning mist (hey, it was the 80s!). 4 pitches later I ended up leading a couple pitchs. I'm pretty sure death was in the works if I blew it, but that's the joy of being a kid!
edit: You're right Adam, it's 7 with a 150 foot rope, but listed in the old guides as 10 which is how we did it. Remember, 'twas a day of swami's and I was climbing for the first time!
[ This Message was edited by: mreardon on 2002-12-17 09:25 ]
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rrrADAM
Dec 16, 2002, 8:21 PM
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10 pitches Mike ??? How long was your rope my brutha ???
It can be done in 5, but most people do 7 for the belay ledges.
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holmeslovesguinness
Dec 16, 2002, 9:12 PM
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Surrealistic Pillar (5.7, 2 pitches) at Lovers Leap, 1994. Also did several other climbs there (Corrugation Corner, 5.7, Haystack Crack, 5.8, followed first pitch of The Line, 5.9). Great place to climb.
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alpinelynx
Dec 16, 2002, 9:35 PM
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First lead was Cut Corner at Potter's Rock (5.6, 1 pitch) off Highway 108. used camalots .75 to 3. Totally sweet and perfect for my first lead.
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pbcowboy77
Dec 17, 2002, 7:01 AM
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My first follow was Magic Dragon at The Needles. This was my first multipitch climb (book said 12 pitches) and it was my first time simulclimbing (we did it in 6 I think) thanks Paul.
My first lead was Finger Trip at Tahquitz, I lead all 4 pitches and had one set of nuts and 3 aillens (yellow, red, orange) and 4 camalots ( 1, 2, 3, 3.5).
-Zac
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mreardon
Dec 17, 2002, 5:26 PM
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Right on PB! Helluva hike for your first climb, and a total classic. Most people head out to "white punks on dope" when in the Needles. You did it right!
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wildtrail
Dec 17, 2002, 5:43 PM
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Some crappy little 5.3 or 5.4 at Devil's Lake.
First multi pitch: Durrance Route, Devil's Tower.
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calpolyclimber
Dec 24, 2002, 11:19 PM
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I led "60 Seconds over Soledad". It's a 5.6 on the Cracked Rock of Bishops Peak. I top roped it so many times that I had it dialed before I placed gear. It made me feel alot more comfortable. I had a set of ABC Huevos, a set of Trango Nutz, a set of Metolius Curved Hex's, and a set of Rock Empire Robots (and their TCU's). The guy I was with said I might as well take it all just so I would get used to the weight of a full rack. I ended up placing mostly nuts and hex's, with only 1-2 cam's.
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jen_c
Dec 25, 2002, 1:59 AM
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My first trad route was "Little Corner" at Shortoff Mtn in North Carolina - a nice 5.6, 4-pitch climb. Gear: Full set of nuts, tricams, alien cams, & a few hexes. Pretty much used the nuts and that was about it though.
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