I am not ashamed---I have talked my wife into leading when I am feeling chickens--t many times. She returns the favor. Sometimes we have even taken turns leading from bolt to bolt!

A quick look at your profile suggests that you have no idea what a 5.11 feels like.


and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft.
If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like




P.S. I truly enjoyed your comment on Bodhisattva


Brilliant!

I lead to satisfy my male ego.

and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft.
If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like

I used to row competitive crew for 3 years.
I trained with those spoiled Winklevoss twins.
It was fun in the beginning.
However those races, were super intense. My team won a 2nd place medal.
Climbing was actually quite a bit mellow by comparison.
Its great that your daughter started out doing crew before climbing.
My back was made stronger by training for crew, and those 6 days a week workouts.
You must be very proud of your daughter .
thanks for sharing.

On the contrary, if we're talking about sport grades, which we weren't before. If you want to call your 5.10c Montana sport ticks a 5.11 that's fine. But how are your children going to feel when they find out their dad was on the internet bragging about being a 5.11 sport climber?

Have you climbed in Joshua Tree? So a climb such as illusion dweller which I believe is a 5.11 would be a 5.10a in Montana?

On the contrary, if we're talking about sport grades, which we weren't before. If you want to call your 5.10c Montana sport ticks a 5.11 that's fine. But how are your children going to feel when they find out their dad was on the internet bragging about being a 5.11 sport climber?

Norway is beautiful. My favorite artist is Eduard Munch. I went to his museum.

After looking at his painting, he should be named "Butt Munch."

The same as if you children learned you where trying to unsuccessfully argue with a 5.11 sport climber on the internet.

I was in England once. The woman’s voice admonished me to mind the gap as I rode the Piccadilly line. Actually, I climbed in France near Gap one time. Well, it was actually near Castellane. In Castellane the village square is all full of so chill outdoor cafes. But up the road and through the gorge is La Palud. In La Palud, they have a nice coffee shop where you can get good French pastries, because it is in France. There are no Vikings there. I climbed with German climbers. Germans love their Wagner ring cycle with his robust horned Teutonic women. Those Wagnerian women look the same as female Vikings with horns who (maybe, if converted, like Elenore of Aquitaine) would ride bare breasted against the infidel. But my German climbers had no horns. They were German boys. One of them did, however, have a red beard. They were all about playing jazz in the evenings. At this place you must rap down 1000 feet to a garden to start climbing. When you get to it you are 1000 feet from the bottom. Sometimes to climb out is not so easy. But I am confident those Wagnerian Teutonic women and many others from my New England home would love this shit.

This thread has it all.

Illusion Dweller is rated 10b, which seems about right.

This makes me rage. Ego has nothing to do with it.

Some men are compelled to lead, it simply seems like the natural choice. For them it seems like a natural decision to make to simply be a leader in some things or all things. It may not be because of his "ego" but rather simply because that's his drive, he has to lead to satisfy that burning need. It's got nothing to do with any type of self-centered behaviour where the man thinks he is somehow weaker or less of a man if he isn't leading or even following a woman.

It could also be that when a guy is leading all the time it's because the people around him see him as a natural choice to leader, either because he has more experience, knowledge, is stronger, or perhaps because his personality makes him a natural fit to lead teams. Once again, nothing to do with any ego bullshit.


I really fucking hate that bullshit feminist angle that Men constantly need to satisfy their "male ego"

One of the few times I ever remember feeling a strong competitive ego boost from a lead was on el-Cap..

Two guys came up to the belay just as i was heading off. They asked what i thought of the pitch above having done it a few times.. i told em they should use a few pins on it,,,,They then proceed to scoffingly inform me it was now considered C2+ or sumshit..

Then asked if they could pass.. i said no they seemed pissed...

I zipped up and considered my pin placements.. even wasted a few seconds with some severely crappy nut placement attempts.. before tinging in some nice solid pins...

buddy and i completed the pitch and i lead off on the next...

sometime later i hear a commotion below..a yelp,, scraping sounds some odd low pops..I look down just as the leader below decks into the belay ledge...and falls over backwards...

Instantly.. the first words out of my mouth are.. "so much for clean aid".

Dude had just took a 60+ foot zipper...

Now I'm pissed..cause i seem to attract rescues of idiots in other groups..I yell down to them and have a conversation..basically.. is he ok..sorta....need help?..no..you guys able to get down?..yeah..sure? yeah...

Onwards...

A few days later I hear that the clinic never saw a pair of blacker bruised feet EVER...

LOLd

This thread has it all.

Not everything. We are four pages in and no one has mentioned that since women are, in general, lighter than men they have less of a pulley effect on gear when they fall.

I think women are like an ice climb: once you think you have one figured out, they refreeze and become more difficult. This of course prompts men to spend prodigious amounts of money they don't have to reequip and bring them down temporarily to their level.

Wait, was that on topic?

You are right!

( what about Left Ski Track-5.11a/or Northwest Finger Crack -5.11a--J.Tree
are those equal to climbs in Montana that are rated 5.10a ?)