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jeepnphreak
Apr 5, 2011, 8:43 PM
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Diphthong wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: enigma wrote: So if my partner can lead to 5.11 trad. California 5.11 = 5.10a by Montana standards and our rock is shit choss too. so what is your point? A quick look at your profile suggests that you have no idea what a 5.11 feels like. and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft. If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like P.S. I truly enjoyed your comment on Bodhisattva jeepnphreak wrote: they do not go by a/b/c/d, if the books says 5.10+ than expect it to be close to and 5.11. Brilliant!
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enigma
Apr 5, 2011, 8:51 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote: Diphthong wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: enigma wrote: So if my partner can lead to 5.11 trad. California 5.11 = 5.10a by Montana standards and our rock is shit choss too. so what is your point? A quick look at your profile suggests that you have no idea what a 5.11 feels like. and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft. If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like P.S. I truly enjoyed your comment on Bodhisattva jeepnphreak wrote: they do not go by a/b/c/d, if the books says 5.10+ than expect it to be close to and 5.11. Brilliant! ------------------------------------------------------------- I have never climbed in Montana. However I have climbed a good amount in California and other states. Have you climbed in Joshua Tree? So a climb such as illusion dweller which I believe is a 5.11 would be a 5.10a in Montana? Is that what you are saying? That every climb in California that is 5.11 would be 5.10a in Montana? Anyone out there who has climbed in both Montana and California( including Joshua Tree) could validate that statement?
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Diphthong
Apr 5, 2011, 8:59 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote: and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft. If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like On the contrary, if we're talking about sport grades, which we weren't before. If you want to call your 5.10c Montana sport ticks a 5.11 that's fine. But how are your children going to feel when they find out their dad was on the internet bragging about being a 5.11 sport climber?
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enigma
Apr 5, 2011, 9:06 PM
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gmggg
Apr 5, 2011, 9:11 PM
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enigma wrote: olderic wrote: sp115 wrote: enigma wrote: ..However a 5.1 is easier than walking up a flight of stairs in the United States for most 3 year olds... I don't think "flight of stairs" means what you think it does. In any even let me put it terms you’ll understand: I like to lead, for the same reason my cat likes to chase a string. My favorite cats are Siamese. They’re from Egypt, not all, but originally. I once had a cat that ate ice cream. I would feed it to her on a fork. “Oh well”, I used to think, “if only you had an opposable thumb”. Has anyone seen a cat climb? They don’t use ropes. They like to chase string. I like to lead for the same reason. I saw a cat climb a tree once. But it was because my dog was chasing her. My dog chase lots of things. Some with four legs some with two. I wonder how many legs she has chased in all? You know in some races they have different segments they call legs. Another type of race is one in boats where they use oars. Called crew. There are two types - sweeps - where you just pull on one oar with both hands and sculling where you have an oar in each hand. In England there are lots of crew races on the Thames such as Henley. And The Boat Race. That's between Oxford and Cambridge. My daughter spent time at both Oxford and Cambridge. She met her husband at Oxford. He was the president of the OUMC (Oxford University Mountaineering Club). They do a lot of climbing. In England. Both boys and girls. My dog is a girl. She chased me up a cliff once. It was 5.3 slab. She almost got it. But couldn't quite. Probably because she is a girl. I am a boy - so I led it for her. It's only natural. Shall we go around again? wheeee I used to row competitive crew for 3 years. I trained with those spoiled Winklevoss twins. It was fun in the beginning. However those races, were super intense. My team won a 2nd place medal. Climbing was actually quite a bit mellow by comparison. Its great that your daughter started out doing crew before climbing. My back was made stronger by training for crew, and those 6 days a week workouts. You must be very proud of your daughter . thanks for sharing. Wow. Bukowski without the self awareness.
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enigma
Apr 5, 2011, 9:25 PM
Post #83 of 190
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Diphthong wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft. If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like On the contrary, if we're talking about sport grades, which we weren't before. If you want to call your 5.10c Montana sport ticks a 5.11 that's fine. But how are your children going to feel when they find out their dad was on the internet bragging about being a 5.11 sport climber?
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dugl33
Apr 5, 2011, 11:14 PM
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enigma wrote: Have you climbed in Joshua Tree? So a climb such as illusion dweller which I believe is a 5.11 would be a 5.10a in Montana? Illusion Dweller is rated 10b, which seems about right.
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chadnsc
Apr 6, 2011, 12:01 AM
Post #85 of 190
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Diphthong wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft. If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like On the contrary, if we're talking about sport grades, which we weren't before. If you want to call your 5.10c Montana sport ticks a 5.11 that's fine. But how are your children going to feel when they find out their dad was on the internet bragging about being a 5.11 sport climber? The same as if you children learned you where trying to unsuccessfully argue with a 5.11 sport climber on the internet.
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Brooklyn_Mikey
Apr 6, 2011, 12:01 AM
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enigma wrote: Norway is beautiful. My favorite artist is Eduard Munch. I went to his museum. After looking at his painting, he should be named "Butt Munch."
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chadnsc
Apr 6, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Brooklyn_Mikey wrote: enigma wrote: Norway is beautiful. My favorite artist is Eduard Munch. I went to his museum. After looking at his painting, he should be named "Butt Munch." Ah to be fourteen years old again and have that awesome witty sense of humor.
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Bag11s
Apr 6, 2011, 12:20 AM
Post #88 of 190
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I was in England once. The woman’s voice admonished me to mind the gap as I rode the Piccadilly line. Actually, I climbed in France near Gap one time. Well, it was actually near Castellane. In Castellane the village square is all full of so chill outdoor cafes. But up the road and through the gorge is La Palud. In La Palud, they have a nice coffee shop where you can get good French pastries, because it is in France. There are no Vikings there. I climbed with German climbers. Germans love their Wagner ring cycle with his robust horned Teutonic women. Those Wagnerian women look the same as female Vikings with horns who (maybe, if converted, like Elenore of Aquitaine) would ride bare breasted against the infidel. But my German climbers had no horns. They were German boys. One of them did, however, have a red beard. They were all about playing jazz in the evenings. At this place you must rap down 1000 feet to a garden to start climbing. When you get to it you are 1000 feet from the bottom. Sometimes to climb out is not so easy. But I am confident those Wagnerian Teutonic women and many others from my New England home would love this shit.
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Diphthong
Apr 6, 2011, 12:49 AM
Post #89 of 190
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chadnsc wrote: Diphthong wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: and a quick look that you take anything off the internet as being real suggests that you are from cali and I hurt your feel bads that your climbing grades are soft. If you check out the graph there are many 5.10 c and ds logged MT routes meaning that is 11a/b + in cali. So yes I do know what a 5.11 feels like On the contrary, if we're talking about sport grades, which we weren't before. If you want to call your 5.10c Montana sport ticks a 5.11 that's fine. But how are your children going to feel when they find out their dad was on the internet bragging about being a 5.11 sport climber? The same as if you children learned you where trying to unsuccessfully argue with a 5.11 sport climber on the internet. There's a successful way to argue on the internet?
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guangzhou
Apr 6, 2011, 12:52 AM
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Bag11s wrote: I was in England once. The woman’s voice admonished me to mind the gap as I rode the Piccadilly line. Actually, I climbed in France near Gap one time. Well, it was actually near Castellane. In Castellane the village square is all full of so chill outdoor cafes. But up the road and through the gorge is La Palud. In La Palud, they have a nice coffee shop where you can get good French pastries, because it is in France. There are no Vikings there. I climbed with German climbers. Germans love their Wagner ring cycle with his robust horned Teutonic women. Those Wagnerian women look the same as female Vikings with horns who (maybe, if converted, like Elenore of Aquitaine) would ride bare breasted against the infidel. But my German climbers had no horns. They were German boys. One of them did, however, have a red beard. They were all about playing jazz in the evenings. At this place you must rap down 1000 feet to a garden to start climbing. When you get to it you are 1000 feet from the bottom. Sometimes to climb out is not so easy. But I am confident those Wagnerian Teutonic women and many others from my New England home would love this shit. Brilliant
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tready
Apr 6, 2011, 3:43 AM
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This thread has it all.
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enigma
Apr 6, 2011, 4:31 AM
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tready wrote: This thread has it all. What happens on the Painted Wall, stays on the painted wall . By the way I enjoyed your article. Cliff Is it common practice for men to spoon together when cold after climbing, when stuck on a wall overnight?
(This post was edited by enigma on Apr 6, 2011, 8:26 AM)
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enigma
Apr 6, 2011, 5:48 AM
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dugl33 wrote: enigma wrote: Have you climbed in Joshua Tree? So a climb such as illusion dweller which I believe is a 5.11 would be a 5.10a in Montana? Illusion Dweller is rated 10b, which seems about right. You are right! ( what about Left Ski Track-5.11a/or Northwest Finger Crack -5.11a--J.Tree are those equal to climbs in Montana that are rated 5.10a ?)
(This post was edited by enigma on Apr 6, 2011, 6:21 AM)
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enigma
Apr 6, 2011, 6:30 AM
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special_blend wrote: enigma wrote: While there alot of good reasons to lead. If you are a guy ; I presume your male ego forces you to lead? What's your opinion on this subject? This makes me rage. Ego has nothing to do with it. Some men are compelled to lead, it simply seems like the natural choice. For them it seems like a natural decision to make to simply be a leader in some things or all things. It may not be because of his "ego" but rather simply because that's his drive, he has to lead to satisfy that burning need. It's got nothing to do with any type of self-centered behaviour where the man thinks he is somehow weaker or less of a man if he isn't leading or even following a woman. It could also be that when a guy is leading all the time it's because the people around him see him as a natural choice to leader, either because he has more experience, knowledge, is stronger, or perhaps because his personality makes him a natural fit to lead teams. Once again, nothing to do with any ego bullshit. I really fucking hate that bullshit feminist angle that Men constantly need to satisfy their "male ego"
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skiclimb
Apr 6, 2011, 6:41 AM
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One of the few times I ever remember feeling a strong competitive ego boost from a lead was on el-Cap.. Two guys came up to the belay just as i was heading off. They asked what i thought of the pitch above having done it a few times.. i told em they should use a few pins on it,,,,They then proceed to scoffingly inform me it was now considered C2+ or sumshit.. Then asked if they could pass.. i said no they seemed pissed... I zipped up and considered my pin placements.. even wasted a few seconds with some severely crappy nut placement attempts.. before tinging in some nice solid pins... buddy and i completed the pitch and i lead off on the next... sometime later i hear a commotion below..a yelp,, scraping sounds some odd low pops..I look down just as the leader below decks into the belay ledge...and falls over backwards... Instantly.. the first words out of my mouth are.. "so much for clean aid". Dude had just took a 60+ foot zipper... Now I'm pissed..cause i seem to attract rescues of idiots in other groups..I yell down to them and have a conversation..basically.. is he ok..sorta....need help?..no..you guys able to get down?..yeah..sure? yeah... Onwards... A few days later I hear that the clinic never saw a pair of blacker bruised feet EVER... LOLd
(This post was edited by skiclimb on Apr 6, 2011, 6:45 AM)
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epoch
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Apr 6, 2011, 2:46 PM
Post #96 of 190
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skiclimb wrote: One of the few times I ever remember feeling a strong competitive ego boost from a lead was on el-Cap.. Two guys came up to the belay just as i was heading off. They asked what i thought of the pitch above having done it a few times.. i told em they should use a few pins on it,,,,They then proceed to scoffingly inform me it was now considered C2+ or sumshit.. Then asked if they could pass.. i said no they seemed pissed... I zipped up and considered my pin placements.. even wasted a few seconds with some severely crappy nut placement attempts.. before tinging in some nice solid pins... buddy and i completed the pitch and i lead off on the next... sometime later i hear a commotion below..a yelp,, scraping sounds some odd low pops..I look down just as the leader below decks into the belay ledge...and falls over backwards... Instantly.. the first words out of my mouth are.. "so much for clean aid". Dude had just took a 60+ foot zipper... Now I'm pissed..cause i seem to attract rescues of idiots in other groups..I yell down to them and have a conversation..basically.. is he ok..sorta....need help?..no..you guys able to get down?..yeah..sure? yeah... Onwards... A few days later I hear that the clinic never saw a pair of blacker bruised feet EVER... LOLd That's funnnnny.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Apr 6, 2011, 5:22 PM
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tready wrote: This thread has it all. Not everything. We are four pages in and no one has mentioned that since women are, in general, lighter than men they have less of a pulley effect on gear when they fall.
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edge
Apr 6, 2011, 5:25 PM
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: tready wrote: This thread has it all. Not everything. We are four pages in and no one has mentioned that since women are, in general, lighter than men they have less of a pulley effect on gear when they fall. I think women are like an ice climb: once you think you have one figured out, they refreeze and become more difficult. This of course prompts men to spend prodigious amounts of money they don't have to reequip and bring them down temporarily to their level. Wait, was that on topic?
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Apr 6, 2011, 5:41 PM
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edge wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: tready wrote: This thread has it all. Not everything. We are four pages in and no one has mentioned that since women are, in general, lighter than men they have less of a pulley effect on gear when they fall. I think women are like an ice climb: once you think you have one figured out, they refreeze and become more difficult. This of course prompts men to spend prodigious amounts of money they don't have to reequip and bring them down temporarily to their level. Wait, was that on topic? Wait, are you saying there is a topic here?
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dugl33
Apr 6, 2011, 6:02 PM
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enigma wrote: dugl33 wrote: enigma wrote: Have you climbed in Joshua Tree? So a climb such as illusion dweller which I believe is a 5.11 would be a 5.10a in Montana? Illusion Dweller is rated 10b, which seems about right. You are right! ( what about Left Ski Track-5.11a/or Northwest Finger Crack -5.11a--J.Tree are those equal to climbs in Montana that are rated 5.10a ?) What do I care what some Montana sheep-rider thinks of California ratings? YDS was invented here, therefore our ratings are definitive -- all others are merely derivative approximations.
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